Trying not to beat a dead horse | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Trying not to beat a dead horse

There are Youtube videos for filling the transmission. You can also search on this forum for posts. The fill adapter can be a generic brass barbed fitting bought at Home Depot for under $5. The side fill hole you're is more for filling a newly rebuilt transmission. The bottom fill plug also doubles to drain off excess trans oil. Too much fluid will cause aeration. The plug has two parts. Search the forum for detail description.

Glad you watched the video. It makes the job a bit easier.
 



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There are Youtube videos for filling the transmission. You can also search on this forum for posts. The fill adapter can be a generic brass barbed fitting bought at Home Depot for under $5. The side fill hole you're is more for filling a newly rebuilt transmission. The bottom fill plug also doubles to drain off excess trans oil. Too much fluid will cause aeration. The plug has two parts. Search the forum for detail description.

Glad you watched the video. It makes the job a bit easier.

I know how to fill the transmission i just had likes the idea of filling from the side and not tge bottom. I work at a shop so its not an issue i just find ford's design very flawed
 






now if my transmission say had a broken band it would not move at all right?
 






Solenoid pack and new filter came in this morning going to install this evening and report back with progress. Drove it to work this morning with just slightly hard shifts no stuck gears or stuck shifts but it was only about 23 degrees out and it seems to act normalish when its cold. Vehicle was up to operating temps by the time i got to work 25 min drive.
 






UPDATE: I did the solenoid pack and transmission filter last night. both tasks accomplished very easily. only mishap I had was I rounded out the fluid level check screw after I got the fluid to the proper level. that's going to be fun getting out someday. I have only driven the truck about 20 miles since finishing job. I have noticed that I have no longer have delayed engagement into reverse or drive. my shifts from 2 to 3 and from 3 to 4 are now flawless. 1 to 2 shifts I am still not happy with. on light throttle the truck is shifting from 1 to 2 at around 2-2500 rpm. if you hold steady throttle I would say around 25% the truck is holding first gear all the way to 3500 rpm then slowly shifts into second. before I do any damage to the rest of the transmission im going to park it replace the servos and adjust the bands. the intermediate servo controls the 1-2 shift. I did NOT find any material in the pan, the fluid was not as nice as I had hoped but was not terrible or burnt smelling either, I did have light debris on the pan magnet but I think that should be expected for 144,000 miles.
 






servo bore fix?

. . . only mishap I had was I rounded out the fluid level check screw after I got the fluid to the proper level. that's going to be fun getting out someday.

Were you using an allen wrench?

. . . im going to park it replace the servos and adjust the bands. the intermediate servo controls the 1-2 shift. . .

If the servo pin bores are worn I doubt replacing the servos will help. You may be a candidate to try the servo bore fix. Or is that what you meant?
 






. . . only mishap I had was I rounded out the fluid level check screw after I got the fluid to the proper level. that's going to be fun getting out someday.

Were you using an allen wrench?



If the servo pin bores are worn I doubt replacing the servos will help. You may be a candidate to try the servo bore fix. Or is that what you meant?

Allen wrench? No i used a Phillips screw driver ;-) yes i used a allen wrench. My plug is brass though i dont know it they all are. And im not talking about just throwing new servos at it im talking about the ones posted in the link on the first page of this post. The Guy Andy that machines grooves into the servos that included o rings and collars 214$ shipped for the pair.
 






interested in your results

Please post how the installation goes and the results. My newly purchased 2003 Limited has 181K miles so I anticipate repairs during the next year or two. The ream kit to bore and sleeve the case servo pin bores cost $500 and the holding fixture costs $170. That's too much to spend just to ream two holes. I'm considering the same kit you're planning.
 






Please post how the installation goes and the results. My newly purchased 2003 Limited has 181K miles so I anticipate repairs during the next year or two. The ream kit to bore and sleeve the case servo pin bores cost $500 and the holding fixture costs $170. That's too much to spend just to ream two holes. I'm considering the same kit you're planning.

Not to mention to fix the bores properly requires removing the transmission so you dont get any debris inside the transmission. If all goes well everything i am doing is going to come up to a little over 500$ plus my free labor. I will say this tho. I will be dropping the exhaust to make my life alot easier. I looked at the servo location in comparison to the cat and there is no way im fight in with that b.s i have a lift so im taking the exhaust out.
 






just a side note, I have noticed that since I had the battery disconnected for this fix, my power locks are now acting funny. normally you hit unlock once on the fob to unlock driver door, hit unlock twice for all doors. now when I hit unlock once the front door unlocks followed by the rear doors unlocking slowly after. when I hit lock twice all four locks including the hatch lock very slowly as if in slow motion and I have to hit lock a third time to get the horn to chime and interior and puddle lamps to shut off. I am going to try and disconnect the battery again and see if this resolves that issue as all locks and functions were normal prior to me disconnecting the battery. I did have the battery on a charger out of the truck while I was working on the transmission just to top of the charge as I use a sound system without a capacitor
 






just to touch base for those interested. I have now done the upgraded solenoid pack, new trans filter, the servo fix kit, and flushed trans with wolfshead synthetic atf. I have driven just over 500 miles since I did the job a week and a half ago. all my shifts are back to normal no more flashing over drive light or incorrect gear ratio codes. I will say this. if you buy they kit with the modified servos. new cap o rings are not included and that is a extra 20$ if I have to do this again I will be ordering their modified needle nose pliers and snap rings as it took me over an hour to just get the two damn snap rings out. please feel free to ask any questions.
 






I feel your pain regarding the snaps rings. I had a hella of a time with them and gave up. Instead, I used their alternate method and drilled the holes on the sides of the servo cap area and used a punch to push the snap rings in. Much easier. Although if I had bought their modified 90 degree pliers it would have better. Happy motoring and thanks for posting back. Did you drop the exhaust?
 






I feel your pain regarding the snaps rings. I had a hella of a time with them and gave up. Instead, I used their alternate method and drilled the holes on the sides of the servo cap area and used a punch to push the snap rings in. Much easier. Although if I had bought their modified 90 degree pliers it would have better. Happy motoring and thanks for posting back. Did you drop the exhaust?

I cut the y pipe in the middle and just removed the right side cat and the heat shields. I attached the exhaust back together with some high temp exhaust goo on each side of the cut and attached both pieces tightly back together with a band clamp.
 






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