Trying to figure out if we can tow our travel trailer

[dani24]

My husband has a 2004 Ford Explorer (XLS, I think), 4WD, 4.0 v6.

We just purchased a 2013 Travel Lite Idea i15 (this isn't our trailer, but this lists some of the specs: http://www.beckleysrvs.com/marylandrvsales/Travel-Lite-/idea/Travel-Trailers.aspx)

We were told by the dealer that my husband's vehicle would be able to tow it. They also suggested we add an equalizing hitch, with anti-sway bar, and break package.

However, I've read some things in the last couple of days that have me concerned, and I'm hoping someone can help clear things up for me.

We think the Explorer has a Class II hitch. Although, we're not really sure. DH did check and it has a 2"x2" receiver on it. It has a 7 pin connector.

Someone told me earlier today that if it's a Class II, we can't use the equalizing hitch on it (we told the dealer we had a Class II, so I'm kind of peeved now that they told us we needed it).

So now we're trying to figure out A) if we actually have a Class II or Class III; and B) if we'll be able to safely tow our travel trailer (and if we should have a Class III installed to do so, if we don't already have one).

Can anyone help me make sense of this with our vehicle?

Thanks!

 

[shades9323]

My husband has a 2004 Ford Explorer (XLS, I think), 4WD, 4.0 v6.

We just purchased a 2013 Travel Lite Idea i15 (this isn't our trailer, but this lists some of the specs: http://www.beckleysrvs.com/marylandrvsales/Travel-Lite-/idea/Travel-Trailers.aspx)

We were told by the dealer that my husband's vehicle would be able to tow it. They also suggested we add an equalizing hitch, with anti-sway bar, and break package.

However, I've read some things in the last couple of days that have me concerned, and I'm hoping someone can help clear things up for me.

We think the Explorer has a Class II hitch. Although, we're not really sure. DH did check and it has a 2"x2" receiver on it. It has a 7 pin connector.

Someone told me earlier today that if it's a Class II, we can't use the equalizing hitch on it (we told the dealer we had a Class II, so I'm kind of peeved now that they told us we needed it).

So now we're trying to figure out A) if we actually have a Class II or Class III; and B) if we'll be able to safely tow our travel trailer (and if we should have a Class III installed to do so, if we don't already have one).

Can anyone help me make sense of this with our vehicle?

Thanks!

If you have a 2x2 receiver it is at least a class III hitch. Class II hitches only have the 1.25" receiver. Check on the front of the radiator for a transmission cooler. You could call a ford dealership with your VIN number and ask if you have the towing package.

I have a similar size trailer(mine is a couple hundred lbs lighter) that I tow with my 2006 Explorer. I don't use a weight distributing hitch, but I do use a sway bar. You will definitely want a brake controller.

 

[dani24]

Thank you. Last night we dug deep in the back of our filing cabinet, and found the sticker from when my husband bought his car. Turns out we do have the towing package (and a "Class III/IV"). So that's a relief.

What does a brake control package run to purchase/install? Would a WD hitch be pointless or a pain?

I ask because I called down to the service department at the RV dealer yesterday to ask a few questions, and was told that the brake control was NOT listed on our due bill. The service manager seemed to think we might not need the WD hitch though. I'm thinking I may need to go back to the dealer to try to straighten things out, and I want to know exactly what I need so I can ask for it. They charged us $650 for the WD hitch and sway bar (and I thought the brake controller) including installation. So I'd like to get some value out of that if I need to swap some items.

 

[thebrakeman]

That trailer is actually a very good match for your V6 Explorer, but only because you have the Class 3 towing package. The 2" hitch, upgraded engine/trans cooling, and upgraded axle gearing (3.73) increase MAX towing capacity from 3500 to 5500lbs (or something like that, look up in your owners manual, or online Ford Towing Guide. You have 10,000 lbs combined weight rating (GCVWR).

y the time you load this camper up, you'll be between 3100-3500 lbs (depending on your packing habits). But remember that anything you put in the Explorer (except the driver) takes away from max towing weight. So passenger weight, and cargo, might reduce that 5500 down to 4800 or so. Again, you have a decent cushion.

Trailer brakes are recommended by Ford for trailers over 2000 lbs. In my opinion, they are required if the total combined weight of both vehicles is greater than the GVWR of the tow vehicle. Your GVWR is about 6400 lbs, and combined weight will be at least 7800 lbs. I highly recommend you go to www.rvwholesalers.com or www.etrailer.com, and get a Tekonsha Prodigy/P2 controller. It will set you back about $100-120, but is worth every penny. You could spend another $20 for the P3 (a bit more bling but functionally the same as the P2). Also get the Ford-specific brake controller harness/pigtail. This will make it plug and play under the dash (no wire-splicing).

As far as the WDH, this will depend on the TW of the camper, which isn't listed in the specs. But assuming about 3200 lbs loaded trailer, you're looking at around 350 lbs loaded TW. IMO, as long as you properly load that trailer (at least 10% on the ball, preferably 12%), you don't need sway control. And the Explorer is actually good thru 5000 lbs without a WDH. Try it without WDH nor sway control for a short, local trip. If it feels like the tail waging the dog, you can add a friction sway controller for under $100. And/or if it feels like the rig can't handle wavy roads ("porpoising"), or the rear is sagging excessively, then check back here for WDH suggestions.

Your loaded TW will have a large effect on what WDH we would recommend here. Many recommend an Equal-I-zer brand hitch. But with only 350 lbs approx. tongue weight, you have other options not available to many. I would recommend the Reese Single Bar 400, which is what I used to use on my 3000 lbs popup camper.

 

[dani24]

That trailer is actually a very good match for your V6 Explorer, but only because you have the Class 3 towing package. The 2" hitch, upgraded engine/trans cooling, and upgraded axle gearing (3.73) increase MAX towing capacity from 3500 to 5500lbs (or something like that, look up in your owners manual, or online Ford Towing Guide. You have 10,000 lbs combined weight rating (GCVWR).

y the time you load this camper up, you'll be between 3100-3500 lbs (depending on your packing habits). But remember that anything you put in the Explorer (except the driver) takes away from max towing weight. So passenger weight, and cargo, might reduce that 5500 down to 4800 or so. Again, you have a decent cushion.

I'm confused about this... The GVWR of the TT is 3500. Let's say we load up the TT to that 3500 lbs. If we have a max towing weight of 5500, does that mean it leaves us with 2000 lbs of cargo capacity inside the TV (including the tongue weight)? I'm confused on how the 10000 GCVWR comes into play then. And are you saying that the amount of stuff loaded into the TV impacts how much you can tow?

Assuming we have the TT loaded to 3500, what's the max amount we could load up into the TV... because I imagine we will load some stuff into the back of the Explorer, plus we can expect to have around 500 lbs of passenger (DH, me, and two small kids plus their carseats).

Trailer brakes are recommended by Ford for trailers over 2000 lbs. In my opinion, they are required if the total combined weight of both vehicles is greater than the GVWR of the tow vehicle. Your GVWR is about 6400 lbs, and combined weight will be at least 7800 lbs. I highly recommend you go to www.rvwholesalers.com or www.etrailer.com, and get a Tekonsha Prodigy/P2 controller. It will set you back about $100-120, but is worth every penny. You could spend another $20 for the P3 (a bit more bling but functionally the same as the P2). Also get the Ford-specific brake controller harness/pigtail. This will make it plug and play under the dash (no wire-splicing).

By "Plug and Play" do you mean this is something we could install ourselves? Would we need anything special installed on the TT? The specs for the TT say that electric brakes come standard.

Your loaded TW will have a large effect on what WDH we would recommend here. Many recommend an Equal-I-zer brand hitch. But with only 350 lbs approx. tongue weight, you have other options not available to many. I would recommend the Reese Single Bar 400, which is what I used to use on my 3000 lbs popup camper.

I asked the service department yesterday what kind of WD hitch we were getting, and they said a "600 lb Husky WD hitch". Are those decent?

 

[shades9323]

By "Plug and Play" do you mean this is something we could install ourselves? Would we need anything special installed on the TT? The specs for the TT say that electric brakes come standard.


I asked the service department yesterday what kind of WD hitch we were getting, and they said a "600 lb Husky WD hitch". Are those decent?

Plug and play means there is a port(probably near your glove box) that you plug the brake controller into(you will need an adapter). The only install you will need is to mount the brake controller. I use the Prodigy P3. Nothing to install on the TT as it already has the electric brakes.

I would ditch the hitch personally and try it without one. You can always get it later if you want/need it.

 

[dani24]

Trailer brakes are recommended by Ford for trailers over 2000 lbs. In my opinion, they are required if the total combined weight of both vehicles is greater than the GVWR of the tow vehicle. Your GVWR is about 6400 lbs, and combined weight will be at least 7800 lbs. I highly recommend you go to www.rvwholesalers.com or www.etrailer.com, and get a Tekonsha Prodigy/P2 controller. It will set you back about $100-120, but is worth every penny. You could spend another $20 for the P3 (a bit more bling but functionally the same as the P2). Also get the Ford-specific brake controller harness/pigtail. This will make it plug and play under the dash (no wire-splicing).

Also, is the brake controller harness/pigtail the same thing as the brake controller wiring (sorry if this is a stupid question!)?

Would our Explorer have come with brake controller wiring and charging line installed as part of the tow package? I didn't see those things listed on the window sticker... but it didn't elaborate on what was included in the tow package.

I'm wondering if we need any additional wiring to hook the brake controller up to the TT brakes.

 

[shades9323]

Also, is the brake controller harness/pigtail the same thing as the brake controller wiring (sorry if this is a stupid question!)?

Would our Explorer have come with brake controller wiring and charging line installed as part of the tow package? I didn't see those things listed on the window sticker... but it didn't elaborate on what was included in the tow package.

I'm wondering if we need any additional wiring to hook the brake controller up to the TT brakes.

No additional wiring needed.

You will need this and this.

 

[dani24]

No additional wiring needed.

You will need this and this.

Perfect! Thank you! You just saved us hundreds of dollars compared to what the dealer quoted to install one.

We looked and found the wiring for the brake controller just under the glove box. There was a pink wire attached though that we were confused about. Do you know what that goes to?

 

[shades9323]

Perfect! Thank you! You just saved us hundreds of dollars compared to what the dealer quoted to install one.

We looked and found the wiring for the brake controller just under the glove box. There was a pink wire attached though that we were confused about. Do you know what that goes to?

Sorry, I don't know what the pink wire is, I have a little newer explorer and my port was below the steering wheel.

 

[thebrakeman]

Good Amazon post with the brake stuff. Yes, that's the Tekonsha P2 controller, and the Ford-specific harness I spoke of. They moved the socket to the driver side in 2006, when they added the center console shifter. But for your 2004, you will have space to plug in under the glove box, and run that harness wiring under the dash to a convenient spot, usually above the emergency brake pedal. Just use the attachment hardware that comes with the P2, or some people use HD Velcro. Your choice.

As far as the number go:
Yes, your effective towing weight decreases on most vehicles as you add weight in the truck. Given a known trailer weight (3500 GVWR in your case), you have 2000 lbs left over for passengers and cargo in the truck. If you didn't know your trailer weight, but knew that you would have 800 lbs of passengers/cargo in the truck, then you would know you have 4700 lbs effective towing capacity (5500-800).

The GCVWR is another way to calculate the same thing, and is more accurate IMO. Start with 10,000 lbs, and simply subtract all known weights. In your case, 10000 minus 3500 lbs max loaded trailer = 6500 lbs capacity for loaded truck. Not sure what your curb weight is, but if 4800 lbs, that leaves 1700 lbs for all people and cargo in the truck.

As far as the TW, just remember not to double-count it. It's considered trailer weight when you are calculating from GCVWR and max trailer weight. But when you want to double check the actual loading on the truck itself (which has around 6400 lbs GVWR) or the load on each axle, that is where you would want to include your TW:
4800 (est curb) + 800 (people + cargo?) + 350 (TW?) = 5950lbs
Still below your GVWR (I think), and that 800 lbs is probably high. (Your welcome! )

 

[thebrakeman]

As far as the Husky WDH, it's nothing special. 600 lbs isn't overkill for 350 lbs of TW, but you would have other options. If you end up needing WDH (?), I'd recommend something with integrated sway control, whci the Husky does not have. The Equal-I-zer brand is highly recommended, and comes in 400 and 600 lb versions. The 1000 lbs unit I have would be overkill for you, and give a harsh ride.

But again, as I and others have suggested, I would try it without WD. Just get a standard drop drawbar from Walmart, of the right drop for the trailer, and see how it goes with a local trip.

 

[keith_h]

Our trailer is similar in weights to yours. Our trailer towed well with just a simple hitch but it was not very windy and we didn't take a route having to contend with lots of semi-trailers. We still decided to go with an Equal-i-zer not so much for it's weight distribution, although it helps, but for it's anti-sway control. After taking a trip with it with 25-30 mph crosswinds I'm glad we did. Every time we've taken the trailer out it tracks well and stays inline with our Explorer.

 

[leowis1]

I have the same ex as you and tow a 3000lb popup camper. I just returned from a camping trip that left me shaking. On this trip I towed 130 miles with no problems. The last 3 were up an 18% grade mountain. No place to turn around. I had the gas pedal almost floored and was doing around 15-20mph. Towards the top I started smelling burning oil. OD is always off when I tow. I thought the engine was going to explode.

There was no signage at the bottom of the mountain warning of a steep grade. Obviously, I went home another way. Put an extra 50miles on my trip. My message to you is this, try to learn of any steep grades before you leave the house. If I were towing a heavier camper, I'm not sure if I would've made it.

 

[GMAN2012]

Towing capacity questions

I see from this string, I am not the only one confused on how to determine what I can tow with my 2005 ford explorer.
I am looking to buy a boat, what I am looking at is about 7000 lbs dry weight.
the hitch is a 2X2" hitch and stamped on the ball arm it says max load 6000lbs, and tounge weight is 600. does this rule out the larger weight?
Is there anything I can do to increase the towing capacity, short of buying a bigger vehicle or smaller boat?
Would I be alright if towing only a short distance within the marina, from a parking space to the ramp, and then back to the parking space?

 

[leowis1]

I have a v6 and I thought I was cooked pulling 3000lb up that mountain. Granted, you're towing a shorter distance. But I do believe a boat ramps also have steep grades. Not sure if you could pull that heavy load up the boat ramp? I would vote no.

 

[thebrakeman]

I see from this string, I am not the only one confused on how to determine what I can tow with my 2005 ford explorer.
I am looking to buy a boat, what I am looking at is about 7000 lbs dry weight.
the hitch is a 2X2" hitch and stamped on the ball arm it says max load 6000lbs, and tounge weight is 600. does this rule out the larger weight?
Is there anything I can do to increase the towing capacity, short of buying a bigger vehicle or smaller boat?
Would I be alright if towing only a short distance within the marina, from a parking space to the ramp, and then back to the parking space?

You could only tow a 7000 lbs dry boat if:
1. Your Explorer is a V8 truck
2. You have the HD Class III/IV towing package
3. You leave the boat/trailer dry (no added weight)
4. You don't put anything in the Explorer except the driver
5. You have functioning trailer brakes
6. TW does not exceed 500 lbs (or you find a WDH that works with boat trailers.

In other words, you need more truck for this boat.

 

[wifes2011xlt]

You might want to look into your local trailering laws too. Most states regulate the max beam width that you are allowed to tow. I would look into dry slips or getting more truck.