TTB Radius Arms - Superlift Replacements???

[carlover]

ted if you want to just fix the broken one and add some plate and gussets im sure brandon could do it in a day or two and really cheap.

 

[Tbars4]

...Stic-o...lol, we are all hard headed and only hear what we want to hear...

...Thanks Carlover, I thought about that but 2 problems...That would leave me waiting for the other one to break and I don't have anywhere to leave my truck parked and jacked up for a couple days...

 

[Four0Sport]

from one broke TTB wheeler to another, high five Ted.

 

[carlover]

...Stic-o...lol, we are all hard headed and only hear what we want to hear...

...Thanks Carlover, I thought about that but 2 problems...That would leave me waiting for the other one to break and I don't have anywhere to leave my truck parked and jacked up for a couple days...

ok, well just for your info he said no more than $100-$125 to fix and gusset/plate both of them.

 

[Tbars4]

...Carlover, I definitely will take that into consideration....If I can't work something out with 91rokkrawler I may either A) have Brandon plate both of them or B) Someone offered me up a set of stock RA's which I might just have Brandon fab up as extended..

 

[carlover]

ok, let me know. he will take care of you either way....

 

[carlover]

ted he said between 225 and 250 to extend and plate the stockers. it wont be the typical way they are extended either. he said he's seen those buckle and he will make them stringer than youll ever need lol.

 

[Dannyboy]

...I just wish I knew someone who had a solid axle in their back yard waiting to mount right up to an explorer, (at a cost I could afford of course)...

...

was this pointed at me or is there someone else with an Explorer width Dana 44s with chromo shafts, ox joints, 5.13s and a Detriot that is choosing not to use it because they enjoy their Dana 35 TTB too much?

 

[Tbars4]

was this pointed at me or is there someone else with an Explorer width Dana 44s with chromo shafts, ox joints, 5.13s and a Detriot that is choosing not to use it because they enjoy their Dana 35 TTB too much?

...Now I got to wipe the drool off my chin...

...I didn't mention any spec's and no, It wasn't pointed ..:scratch:..directly at you...I know a few people on this forum with dana 44's just sitting in their yards...

...But I am always by my phone in case someone (anyone), wants to work something out...

 

[JTX]

was this pointed at me or is there someone else with an Explorer width Dana 44s with chromo shafts, ox joints, 5.13s and a Detriot that is choosing not to use it because they enjoy their Dana 35 TTB too much?

I thought i traded you that TTB for this!

 

[Dannyboy]

LOL, nope, someday this will go under a truck. I'm not using the one I got enough to build another one.

 

[91ROKKRAWLER]

well my arms are for sale if anyone wants them. 200 plus shipping. come with almost new bushings and the brackets for them. i need them gone so i can start building my rod ended arms.

 

[Tbars4]

...:scratch:..Pm sent. with questions...


...EDIT:..91Rokkrawler, You should post them in the "For Sale " section...

 

[91ROKKRAWLER]

pm returned.

 

[4x4junkie]

Why? Because it's simple and it works. Much less coplicated, and a TTB will never flex like a SA. Besides, TTB's were never ment to run 35's+. For lighter stuff I agree, stick with the TTB, but when you start getting serious and running 35's +. Is just a matter of time. Now I had tortion bars, but I never put a dime into the front end, because I knew it was a lost cause.

When lifting a TTB, instaed of spending 2k on a lift kit, and running 35's. just go SA and be done with.

As far as the track bar? build right and you should not have a problem. but if wheeling serious enough, anything could brake.

For the kind of wheeling Ted is doing, he's just buing time with the TTB. He get a lot of life out of it, but in the end he'll do a SAS anyway.

Tell me I'm wrong Ted?

I wish I could agree, but like others before you, your reasoning just doesn't hold any water next to what I've seen come out of a TTB.


A D44 was never meant to run 35s either. Your point?

Complicated? Maybe by the fact you can't buy a decent bolt-on TTB suspension kit off a store shelf (and are forced to do a bit of homework to figure everything out), but then again, a SAS ain't no bolt-on affair last I checked either (yeah, the Jeep guys have it easy here ).

Flex? Mine pulls over 20" and seems quite well-balanced with the rear. How much flex do you think you need???

Strength? Almost never am I surrounded by anything but solid axled vehicles when I go wheeling (built Jeeps, early Broncos, old Toyotas, etc.), yet quite often I've watched people break their **** doing less than what I do, so I'm not sure how big the case for better strength can be made for it...
A D35 TTB has the same size u-joints as that D44 you're probably running, and unless you have non-stock shafts, a slightly larger inner shaft diameter too (seen those neckdowns on stock D44 shafts?).

2K on a lift kit? Nope. I have maybe a little over $700 or so into my BII's front suspension (which includes a steering swap). Please tell me how to pull off a (non-hackjob) SAS for that amount (TTB is not even close to like the torsion bar IFS, if that's what you're basing your argument on, your comments would all make perfect sense in that case).


Your analogy about building it right I do fully agree with. Why would you think it doesn't apply to a TTB?

.


I don't know exactly what kind of wheeling Tbars here does, but I'm thinking look through the wheeling pics on my Cardomain page and you'll see I don't use my truck exactly "for lighter stuff". It's probably about the most you'd want to take a full-bodied rig with all it's glass into (and keep it somewhat nice anyway). Much more and you're entering buggy/truggy territory, solid axle or not.

...Although I have a long pitman arm, I'll will be doing steering pretty soon so go ahead and start sending me ttb steering linkage info...

What pitman arm do you have? Is it the Skyjacker one I mentioned above? Or are you thinking of going with a K-link or crossover conversion?

 

[Four0Sport]

What pitman arm do you have? Is it the Skyjacker one I mentioned above? Or are you thinking of going with a K-link or crossover conversion?

the only problem im having with my TTB lift is the steering. I have the extended pitman arm (2" lower than factory.. not adequate) and though I dont have the bump steer problems i was having before I am having problems. whenever i turn while not moving or even when i park and leave my wheels turned i notice the suspension is flexing and the only thing i can think of that would cause this would be the angle on the tie rods pulling the suspension in? idk.. im at a loss. i thought about different steering set-ups but we're limited on options with the TTB. that why i was kind of curious to the k-link, or crossover conversion you mentioned above. I did some quick searching and all the threads that contain those steering setups are by guys with SAS. I, along with Ted, would like some info on steering setups for lifted TTB's if you guys have any.

(sorry to hijack but this thread has been pretty good in the info department)

 

[Tbars4]

....I am due for a steering box and possibly a pump...I'll probably swap in a stock pitman and go crossover...I might even set up for a future hydro assist...:scratch:

...Sorry I don't have any pics of what I'm wanting to do at this time...

...P.S., my theory for changing over to a SAS in the future would be based strictly on fewer parts to maintain...

 

[Four0Sport]

my pump is slowly getting louder. i think its bc of the strain the angled draglinks add. could anyone explain how a crossover setup would work on a TTB? i cant picture it in my head, then again i havnt been awake long.

 

[RockRanger]

2K on a lift kit? Nope. I have maybe a little over $700 or so into my BII's front suspension (which includes a steering swap). Please tell me how to pull off a (non-hackjob) SAS for that amount (TTB is not even close to like the torsion bar IFS, if that's what you're basing your argument on, your comments would all make perfect sense in that case).



I don't know exactly what kind of wheeling Tbars here does, but I'm thinking look through the wheeling pics on my Cardomain page and you'll see I don't use my truck exactly "for lighter stuff". It's probably about the most you'd want to take a full-bodied rig with all it's glass into (and keep it somewhat nice anyway). Much more and you're entering buggy/truggy territory, solid axle or not.

When most people say there solid axle swap cost 2-4 grand it also includes the wheels tires, gears, and lockers. With a bit of shopping you could swap a f150 or bronco dana 44 under a ranger for close to $700.

$200 axle
$50 coil bucks
$250 shocks and springs
$50 radius arms
$50 radius arm mounts
$100 Draglink
$50 tie rod
$50 misc steel and bolts.

Thats $800 sure you still need to do gears, lockers, and tires but you have to do that with a dana 35 so that is basically a wash.

Eather way to do it right you end up dropping a bunch of cash on both setups. a TTB will do decent if it is built right. Heck there are a few guys that are going to be running an IFS setup in buggies at the king of the hammers race in a few weeks.

I do have a question for you 4x4junkie though. How come you never come out to any of the socal runs that we have? Compared too rrorc or trs i would say here we have the most active group of socal wheelers between any of them. I would like to meet you in person and see how your ttb setup works for you. TDS is coming up or another trip could be done as well. I want to meet the only person in the world that will defend the ttb to the death .

 

[Tbars4]

....I think 4x4junkie may be waiting till this X makes it's debut...
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=212368