turbo installation | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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turbo installation

SE7EN

Active Member
Joined
September 26, 2008
Messages
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City, State
College Station, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
91 XLT
i own a 91 xlt, i was wanting to install a turbo on it and i was wondering how i would go about this?

i have seen were people but the turbo on the underside of the truck in the rear, that is on trucks not suv's. so i was wondering if thats how it would be installed on a explorer.

is this how i would install a turbo on the explorer? or is there a certain set of headers that they make for it? if anybody has any knowledge please inform me. pics would help out a lot aswell

thanks everyone.
 



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i just flipped the exhaust manifolds
DSC00033.jpg

as for rear mounting it gets more expensive due to the need for a scavenge pump to return the oil to the motor and there has bee na few explorers to do this
 






you said yu just flipped the mani, looks like you flipped the driver side mani?

did you have to weld a custom mount for the turbo to mount to?

also when you flip it does the bolts line up on either side? i ask because i have never taken anything on my motor apart yet as of right now.

also turbo cat do you have any pic of inside the engine bay?

i appreciate the pic you posted that helped me quit a bit but i just need one of the inside.

thanks again
 












the manifolds bolt on with no mods except there is a lip because of the C shapped port however the lip was so samll i didnt even bother with porting it maybe someday when the kit comes back off for work

heres some more pics i flipped both manifolds
EXPLTURBO4.jpg

HOTSIDE1.jpg

HOTSIDE2.jpg

if you do go remote mounted the turbowerx (shurflow) pump is a good one to use i bought one off of ebay when i built a remdote kit for my car but went conventional as well. I will for warn you thou the pumps are not exactly quiet. i built my kit with parts laying around that totalled about 150$ in 3 days. The turbo was 16$ at the yard from a 80s 2.2 chrysler motor. I already had a few of those turbos laying around but they were all missing the gates so i just snatched another up. I now had a pile stating to collect of turbos around here haha
 






hey thanks alot for pics and a little more description i learn better with pic,

and you said that you flipped both and there was a C shaed lip?

was that on the inside were the headers meet the heads?

if so cant i just have a shop port and polish to get rid of the lip or is it an external lip? if thats the case im not to worried about it.

would it be a good idea to use aftermet headers or go with the stock ones? i want to do it right the first time.

im guessing you just ran your exhaust down and under like normal off of the turbo?

i looks eaiser this way to mount it in the engine bay to install an intercoller aswell which i will be doing.
 






there are a few more explorer turbo builds here youll have to look around. Use the search bar and type in turbo. As for the manifolds yes a simple porting will do. I havent even gotten that far yet because its such a small lip and i was in a hurry to get it done. As for using headers Im not sure if there is stock replacement headers i thought there were just LTs however shortys may still not clear as the tubes usually run differently causing interferance with brackets and the HVAC. but i guess you could try it out. I stick with the cast iron because they flow fine and hug the heads tight to clear everything including hvac, they were free, and cast iron will hold in more heat than a tubular header (heat=energy and higher velocity...as gas cools it slows down so you want to keep velocity up to spool the turbo). Im not running and intercooler as i only run 5psi daily so it hasnt been necesary but if i do get it tuned and adjust for higher daily driving #ers than i will go intercooled. My exhaust is just dumped under the radiator for now i havent had the time to build a full exhaust for it but i do have a path for a full exhaust planned out.

You may be better off relocating the battery to the driver side and placing the turbo where the battery was that was the exhaust could exit right down near the oil filter and out the back very easily. this guy just left the manifolds in the oem location and U turned the exhaust to the fronthttp://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=193557

and heres my build http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=213889
 






thanks for explaining all that ill jus stick with stock cast iron headers myself i looked at those other link they helped me out a lot. i was wondering do they make a lower compression piston? about how much boost do you think i could get on stock pistons 10psi? since they are 9.3:1
 






thanks for explaining all that ill jus stick with stock cast iron headers myself i looked at those other link they helped me out a lot. i was wondering do they make a lower compression piston? about how much boost do you think i could get on stock pistons 10psi? since they are 9.3:1

i pushed it to 15psi untuned so far. there are a few 4.0ohvs that are pushing 20+ psi with only upgrading the headgaskets. Im going to go megasquirt soon as i can and then ill be able to raise the bar
 






i pushed it to 15psi untuned so far. there are a few 4.0ohvs that are pushing 20+ psi with only upgrading the headgaskets. Im going to go megasquirt soon as i can and then ill be able to raise the bar

i was tying to find megasquirt but i couldnt realy find what i was looking for it kept coming up it was for gm vehicles any idea which one to look for?

also i was going to get a manual boost controller but im not sure how you would know how much boost your running.

if i get a 5psi spring for a tial wasategate does that mean the minimum is 5 psi and i can go as high as i want? or does that mean i cant go over 5 psi of boost.
 






a 5 psi spring will start to open the WG at 5 psi and steady the valve to maintain 5 psi. I have a manual boost controller on my ploder its just a valve that stops the wastegate line from seeing 5 psi of boost until later. If your truck is an auto you dont necesarily need a bov and megasquirt info can be found at http://www.DIYautotune.com
 






a 5 psi spring will start to open the WG at 5 psi and steady the valve to maintain 5 psi. I have a manual boost controller on my ploder its just a valve that stops the wastegate line from seeing 5 psi of boost until later. If your truck is an auto you dont necesarily need a bov and megasquirt info can be found at http://www.DIYautotune.com

i am going to get this boost controler here how do you know how much boost your pushing with a manual boost controller?

so with a 5 psi spring is that the minimum psi and if i wanted to i can run 8psi another day? is that right?

my truck is a 5 speed, but either way i am planning on getting a bov.

also which megasquirt system would you go with?

would this one work here or should i go with a different one

thanks again
 






ok nevermind that question about how much boost i will be pushing, i forgot about the boost gauge lol.


jeesh im smart
 






the boost controller i have will actualy turn off the wastegate if i close it all the way and put my foot to the floor i would max the turbo out and probally grenade it which inm not planning to do

as for the megasquirt i would sugest looking into it hard there are megasquirt forums as well theres alot that you need to learn before taking the dive i should be megasquirting the x soon
 






what fuel injectors what be good to go with?
 






I'm thinking 30#ers should be plenty. A 255Lp pump should kep the lines fueled. Im still running a full oem fuel system. I plan on upgrading the injectors to 30#s, regulator and a 255 pump
 






I'm thinking 30#ers should be plenty. A 255Lp pump should kep the lines fueled. Im still running a full oem fuel system. I plan on upgrading the injectors to 30#s, regulator and a 255 pump

thanks man thats everything i need to know, now i know what to look for, if i can find them all lol.

thanks again
 






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