Turbo Questions

[eXcali]

Yeah we were brainstorming around that very issue and thinking about how we could position it so it is in fact a cold air intake. I will definentally be heat wrapping the new headers to cut down on heat in the campartment but that can only go so far. I'll think of something...I've already got the stereo, the tires and rims, the exhaust, an "Air Intake", 210 amp alternator, Optima battery...I'm running out of Ideas!

Woah, don't heat wrap the headers. Very bad idea as it will break them down very fast. I've seen wrapped headers crack in just a couple months. It also voids almost all header manufacturers warranty. If your looking for heat reduction, look into headers that have ceramic covers. Also remember most of your engine bay heat comes from the block and radiator, especially when driving the heat from your headers is being pushed out of your engine compartment.

I'd toy with the idea of routing that intake over near the right side of your vehicle. The radiant heat from the block and the radiator is going to increase the temp of that metal the way it's currently routed.

Another trick you could look into for more power is find a larger intake manifold that will fit your engine. I don't know of any off hand, but look for a newer vehicle that uses the same 4.0. When manufactures have to pass emmissions requirements they usually increase the intake manifold size and add stronger injectors to make up for the power loss.

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

*sigh*

So many youngins... so much arguing.

I'll say what I have to say and leave you to it.

I think turbocharging the Explorer is a cool and fun idea, but I wouldn't put a ****load of money into it when you can buy a used turbo from a junkyard and rebuild it for cheap cheap. I saw over on Ranger Power Station about getting a cheap knockoff Greddy wastegate, but buying the greedy spring. Same performance, half the cost.

I think it's definitely a project to do, don't get me wrong, but I feel that maybe it's best saved for something else. Over on RPS there are a LOT of 4cylinder rangers with turbo's being installed, and they're MEAN. Maybe go that route? Get a cheap 5spd 4cylinder engine ranger and go to town on it!

As for the COOL air intake, don't worry about it. As you're aware of anyways the intake sound has changed underload to a more throaty sound, next look into swapping your MAF with that of a 5.0L engine from Ford. When used with the stock MAF electronics in your MAF all ready, you'll get better airflow, do a search you'll find posts about it.

I wouldn't worry about the warm air under the hood. When you get moving past 20mph you'll be going through enough air it won't make any differences. I've run an intake setup similar to yours with no ill effects. The only thing I did to try and get cooler air was I cut a whole in my wheel well right below the air intake and put screen over it, kinda like window screen (to catch water on rainy days). No idea if it helped or not, but that's about the only thing I'd say you could do. Anything else is overkill for these bricks.

 

[seanpyl]

*sigh*

So many youngins... so much arguing.

Indeed

 

[jd4242]

*sigh*

So many youngins... so much arguing.

I'll say what I have to say and leave you to it.

I think turbocharging the Explorer is a cool and fun idea, but I wouldn't put a ****load of money into it when you can buy a used turbo from a junkyard and rebuild it for cheap cheap. I saw over on Ranger Power Station about getting a cheap knockoff Greddy wastegate, but buying the greedy spring. Same performance, half the cost.

I think it's definitely a project to do, don't get me wrong, but I feel that maybe it's best saved for something else. Over on RPS there are a LOT of 4cylinder rangers with turbo's being installed, and they're MEAN. Maybe go that route? Get a cheap 5spd 4cylinder engine ranger and go to town on it!

As for the COOL air intake, don't worry about it. As you're aware of anyways the intake sound has changed underload to a more throaty sound, next look into swapping your MAF with that of a 5.0L engine from Ford. When used with the stock MAF electronics in your MAF all ready, you'll get better airflow, do a search you'll find posts about it.

I wouldn't worry about the warm air under the hood. When you get moving past 20mph you'll be going through enough air it won't make any differences. I've run an intake setup similar to yours with no ill effects. The only thing I did to try and get cooler air was I cut a whole in my wheel well right below the air intake and put screen over it, kinda like window screen (to catch water on rainy days). No idea if it helped or not, but that's about the only thing I'd say you could do. Anything else is overkill for these bricks.

x2 the air in the engine compartment reaches the same temp as outside air around 20mph there is a post somewhere with someone doing temp checks at idle and different mph.i also run that intake and it works just fine,leave the tube coming from the front and it will also dump air right to it.i allready posted the link for the gt maf but here it is again,http://jbrlsr.com/?aid=0&bid=0&cid=...153360&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

Woah, don't heat wrap the headers. Very bad idea as it will break them down very fast. I've seen wrapped headers crack in just a couple months. It also voids almost all header manufacturers warranty. If your looking for heat reduction, look into headers that have ceramic covers. Also remember most of your engine bay heat comes from the block and radiator, especially when driving the heat from your headers is being pushed out of your engine compartment.

I'd toy with the idea of routing that intake over near the right side of your vehicle. The radiant heat from the block and the radiator is going to increase the temp of that metal the way it's currently routed.

Another trick you could look into for more power is find a larger intake manifold that will fit your engine. I don't know of any off hand, but look for a newer vehicle that uses the same 4.0. When manufactures have to pass emmissions requirements they usually increase the intake manifold size and add stronger injectors to make up for the power loss.

you have no clue what you are talking about!!starters wrapping headers when done right,"1/4 or less overlap" and sprayed with silicone paint,work great.it adds power and lowers temps,it has been around for years and all most every racing sport uses them!!and they dont make any larger intake manifold,that upper is one of the best ford has ever made and many mustang guys use them.if you want more flow look into porting the lower intake or getting a bbk tb.finally that last part just doesnt make any sense,to pass emissions they make them smaller to use less gas,explorers are setup to run pretty lean for epa and mpg.the injector that are stock can handle up to around 300hp and wouldnt need to be changed unless he goes turbo!!

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

Actually he is correct about the header wrap... They will trap moisture and degrade the metal at a faster pace then usual non-wrapped headers. If you do get headers, I definitely would look into having them cerami-coated. I believe Turdle/jtsmith (whatever the hell he goes by now) does them with his home powder coating oven.

But I think it depends on what type of exterior the headers have, like what type of finish. So look into it first, there are conflicting opinions in this thread about it so instead of arguing over who is right and who is wrong, look into the headers you want and find people that have wrapped them. See whats up. But it probably also depends on yoru area of the country hot/dry places won't have as big a problem as cold/wet places.

Just some things to consider.

 

[dangerrangerstx]

you could do a custom exaust turbo in the rear of the exaust. my friends 02 ranger on an 89 sas frame has a merkure turbo

 

[rhauf]

a friend of mine has a volvo.. he put a header on it and heat wrapped it. it rusted through in about 6 months. that is all.

 

[seanpyl]

Well I'm getting "Hedman" headers installed. More than likely the ceramic coated crome headers. I won't need to wrap those sp I don't think I'm going to have a problem

 

[seanpyl]

dont do a chip they dont work.do maf swap from a gt mustang.look into underdrive pulleys and efan first.

Don't chip it? What do you have installed that you tried to chip on your vehicle? ANd in what way do they not work?

 

[Kiliona]

Don't chip it? What do you have installed that you tried to chip on your vehicle? ANd in what way do they not work?

A lot of chips (every single one on ebay) are scams. All they are is a 20 cent resistor that tricks your computer into thinking it's cold outside so it richens your fuel/air mixture. If your mixture needs richening your computer is smart enough to do it itself, trying to trick it has no positive effects.

Buying a tuner, if that's what you meant, would be great, except i have NO clue if they're made for a first gen explorer ESPECIALLY considering it's OBD1

 

[Flip4ford]

and a honda or pos escape wouldn't make as good an off road vehicle IMO either.

first of all I have 270K on my escape so it is not a POS! Secondly you want to take a torbo'd vehicle off road-- in the dust and mud it is not going to last long. Thirdly you have no mechanical background (self professed) So you are never going to do this project anyway.. Stick with your clear taillights and neon under the hood lighting for mods , and quit insulting people who are trying to help you-- or build it get it right and post a build thread proving to everyone under the sun that you can.