Type F fluid for delayed engagment

[Chrisman889]

I'm having a problem with my 93 Explorer going into Drive, I just had replaced the whole tranny with a salvage 94 with 80k on it. It will not go into D unless I rev up the engine. The problem gets worse as it heats up, in the mornings when it's cold it only takes one light step on the pedal and it engages but after I drive it, put it in Park and back into Drive it takes about 5-6 revs or a couple of high rpm revs. I hate clunking it in like it does.
The guy I bought it from is telling me to replace at least 5 qts of fluid with the old type F Ford fluid. Any opinions on that? Is it a different viscosity? so maybe it builds more pressure?

 

[colintrax]

A thicker fluid will help but it's not addressing the real problem. Sounds like a weak pump

 

[Chrisman889]

It goes into reverse just fine. Do you think the pump may have been damaged during installation? What about sticking valves?

 

[colintrax]

If it's going into reverse fine then I'd guess it's not the pump. Maybe it's just a fluid leak. I'm not a trans expert so you're better off waiting on others to reply. But I wouldn't put thicker fluid in there, find the real problem and fix that.

 

[Bruces expo]

Do not put that fluid in your trans , it will make it burn up regardless of what you do to it , I know first hand from doing so , Search on here for the Vacuum modulator , and check that , also search on here for the band adjustment , and then go from there , most likely what others will tell you as well .

 

[Chrisman889]

I already adjusted the bands. There has been a couple different modulators on there my tech tried a few different ones he said. However I'm probably going to get the Motorcraft one OEM. I'm steering more towards either loose valve body or booster valve. I'm going to go ahead and have the whole VB rebuilt.

 

[Bruces expo]

I already adjusted the bands. There has been a couple different modulators on there my tech tried a few different ones he said. However I'm probably going to get the Motorcraft one OEM. I'm steering more towards either loose valve body or booster valve. I'm going to go ahead and have the whole VB rebuilt.

Well sounds like your no stranger to the a4ld then , I would do the VB and upgrades , If I could , but the Bronco II trans I have is crap lol . Good luck and report back after you do those things , threads like this one helps others that are new to the a4ld

 

[BrooklynBay]

I wouldn't invest money in a defective junkyard transmission. Your first post said that it had 80K miles, but how do you know that for a fact? Maybe this transmission was the reason that the vehicle was in the junkyard in the first place. You should have a warranty to return it, and get another one. Never put type F fluid in this transmission.

 

[Chrisman889]

It's not worth sending it back. If I could fix it with a shift kit and a new booster valve for $70, I'm going to do that. It will cost me about $200 to send back and I only paid $300 for it. The thing is once it's in gear it runs like a new vehicle, shifts very smooth and at the right time.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Did you fill the transmission with the engine running while the vehicle is in park? The level is lower when it's cold. You might have a low fluid condition.

 

[arco777]

I'd think you may have a leaky separator plate gasket, or sticking valve in the valve body. Installing a shift correction kit and new gaskets will probably have a positive effect. I got my parts from Transmission Parts USA and it was pretty affordable; I went with the Transo A4LD SK-Jr kit and was very happy with the results.

Also note that crummy trans rebuilders may not use new separator plate gaskets, overtorque the valve body bolts (warping or cracking the VB), or put the VB bolts in the wrong places. There are 3 or 4 different lengths for the bolts and one that is the wrong length can bottom out without applying clamping force to the VB or strip out.

 

[bovine]

I had a issue similar to this but without swapping transmissions is was about a week or so after a drain and flush went back into a realized that the parts guy sold me the wrong filter and it had worked it's way loose since it did not have a good fit changed the filter refilled with fluid and have had no more problems with it. something to think about.

 

[Chrisman889]

Arco777, that's exactly what I plan on doing. I will also check the filter. Thanks for all the help.

 

[Chrisman889]

Just ordered the Transgo jr. kit, booster valve and new VB gaskets. I will let everyone know how it goes. Hopefully this will work.

 

[arco777]

Good luck! Don't forget to test the solenoids while you're in there.

 

[Chrisman889]

I will, One question about that Sonnax booster valve. It is titled oversized booster valve. Does that mean I will have to bore out the VB?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Use the regular size instead of the over size version unless you plan on reaming & resleeving the bore. The boost valve with O rings is a good choice. Make sure that you get the one for the 4.0L engine.

 

[arco777]

Agreed with BrooklynBay. I installed the Sonnax valve (not the oversize one) and was very happy with it. The action was much smoother than the stock valve.

 

[Chrisman889]

They only had one for the a4ld. I talked to a lady in their office and she said I would have to drill it out. Then I called their parts center and they told me I wouldn't. I got it from Transmission Center, PATC. It was the only one they offered. I guess I will find out when it gets here. I'm anxious to get this done, I just feel like I'm doing lots of damage every time I drive it.

 

[arco777]

Go to Sonnax' web site. They list their products there, sort by transmission. They have the instructions too. Check the part number against what you ordered to see which valve you got and download the instructions to confirm. The standard replacement assembly just slides in without drilling. Resellers don't always sell the whole Sonnax line.