Uh oh---White Smoke

[oahrens]

Hello All,

After blowing the tstat and dumping almost all the coolant, I replaced the tstat...pressuer tested ok. After starting I felt like a rock star stepping onstage through all the white smoke. I'm hoping that water got into the exhaust somehow and after driving for about 10 miles it seems to have just about gone away. My question is before replacing the head gasket I put in "BAR Leak" with these pellets in it. Has anyone used this before?

 

[oahrens]

We'll See....

Well before leaving this morning, I checked collant level and had to add 1/2 gallon. I'm assuming the hoses etc. needed to refill. I had a little smoke for about 2 miles. I drove about 200 miles today and we'll see if the "Bars Leak" additive works or not in the morning.

BTW- I also noticed an almost sputtering during acceleration. What might cause this after dumping the coolant and driving about a mile dry. What is the effect of cracked/damaged heads? God I hope that's not it.

ANY response/comments are greatly appreciated.

 

[01EB5.0]

Hey,
i hear the 4.0L OHV is not very tolerant at all to heat and if you drove for a mile w/ no coolant i hope you didn;t crack your heads cause that is expensive. also I don't recommend using any stop=leak stuff because it only causes problems down the road. whatever the problem is fix it right the first time. thats all I've got to say...I don't know how to tell if the heads got warped or cracked..I'll let someone else stab that one.

 

[Jon_Herr]

depends

I cracked the head of an old Ford Escort on my way home from College once. I stopped to get gas and check the oil. The oil was full of antifreeze and up about half way on the stick.

This was a $300 car at the time, so I just put a can of those 'bars leaks' pellets in and within the next 3 hours of driving the oil was back to normal.

Several oil changes later and the leak had not returned.

Now, this Escort has aluminum heads which may seal better or worse than the iron heads of an explorer.

I wish you the best of luck, but I'll be honest, it doesn't sound too good from here.

I learned so much from that $300 escort of mine. That was the second head that was put on the thing. Originally the head was so cracked (all four cylinders) that all of the sealant in the world didn't keep it dry. It ran on more of a oil and water mix in the crankcase. It had tons of blowby (I wonder why?) so I ran 90W oil mixed with motor honey in it. If it weren't for the hot Las Cruces sun it wouldn't have even started.

It turned out that the reason for the heads cracking was the water pump impellar fell off. It was cooling on convection alone.

Anyhow the sealer stuff may keep it going until you can get another engine or change the heads - if that's truly the problem.

I might recommend that you just find another engine. Changing the engine out might actually be less labor than pulling the heads. One reason I drive an Ex is CHEAP PARTS! Used ones that is...

Best of luck!

 

[Jon_Herr]

digging deeper

Have you pulled the plugs to see if there's water getting into the combustion chamber?

Might be a good way to start to find out where the water is getting into the system.

If you identify a suspect cylinder you might find a shop with a fiber optic probe so you can get a look around in there. The block _could_ be cracked instead or in addition to the head.

Have you checked the other stuff? Like auto transmission (do you have one) modulator? Burning autotransmission fuel can look kinda like water. Given your circumstances maybe not...

Again, good luck!
Jon

 

[oahrens]

Details...

Thanks for the replies..

OK...when I noticed the temp jump up I drove right home to find coolant leaking and evaporating from the tstat housing. I didn't notice any difference in driving on the way home. This is why I don't think it's the head/block. I figured I would've noticed that on the way home.
I'm going to check the plugs and oil in the morning. It should be noticable since I did a tune up last week. I'm going to reset the computer also. Maybe when everything crapped out fuel/air/temp settings were wacked.

There is no white smoke after adding 'bars leaks'. It just feels a little sloppy at idle and slow accelleration. Idle is steady RPM's. I know this is a temporary fix.

 

[01EB5.0]

Well, all I can say is good luck and keep us posted.

 

[oahrens]

Can't be good...

OK...Plugs and oil seem to be ok. There is no more white smoke at all. Faint smell though.
-I get an almost flooded feeling/response when I turn the key. No problems starting and at idle.
-After driving about 50 miles..I popped the hood to find coolant overflowing from the resevoir. No visible leaks.
-I also noticed a missing/bucking response on the highway. Like when my cats were clogged.

Any suggestions on what my next troubleshooting/diag should be?

 

[01EB5.0]

Wow..coolant flowing out of resivour...thats really screwed up.....something could be clogged maybe? I'm no expert..just amazed.

 

[JDraper]

Re: Can't be good...

Originally posted by oahrens
OK...Plugs and oil seem to be ok. There is no more white smoke at all. Faint smell though.
-I get an almost flooded feeling/response when I turn the key. No problems starting and at idle.
-After driving about 50 miles..I popped the hood to find coolant overflowing from the resevoir. No visible leaks.
-I also noticed a missing/bucking response on the highway. Like when my cats were clogged.

Any suggestions on what my next troubleshooting/diag should be?

Uh oh, dat not good!! Sounds like you might have a blown head gasket. A quick test: Let everything cool, make sure your radiator is full of coolant (water will do), take the cap off of the radiator, and start the truck, if the radiator bubbles over, it means you are getting compression back through the water jacket which most likely means either a blown head gasket, or a cracked head.

Your best bet for testing is to go get a compression gauge and do a compression test. Check out this thread for info Dead Link Removed .

 

[oahrens]

Yes Virginia...It does get worse!

The 'good' news---I found the problem.
The BAD news---
After checking everything ths morning I drove to my first job about 40 miles with temp ok and still sluggish like oil on a plug.
When I parked I heard the dreaded hissing. I got out to find a steady piss-like drain of coolant. Pop the hood and drianing from the top bolt of the water pump assy.
Without pressure(cap off) still leaks. I can't get use of a garage or any mechainic friends till Sat.

QUESTION : If I'm replacing the water pump...what else should I replace while I'm at it. I figure with almost 100k things will start to go soon anyway. While I have the funds I want to take care of whatever I can now.

BTW- the overflow from the reservoir is probably from a clog due to the 'Bars Leak'. I was supposed to disperse the pellets in the bottle before adding it.

I will due a compession test of the coolant sys. and also the cylinders to test/check heads.

 

[Ross-N-Chicago]

Here's what I would do:

Go buy new t stat, all new hoses and clamps, water pump, rtv sealant, antifreeze of choice (i prefer dexcool) and redline water wetter.

drain your system and replace the water pump. while the rtv is setting up replace all the hoses and remove the t stat from housing and replace housing WITH NO STAT YET. fill your puke tank and radiator with fresh clean water. start up X and run with heat on high for 15 mins. let it cool, drain, and repeat with fresh water.

now you can drain system, add the new stat (vent on top, duh) and fill her up with water wetter and proper mix of water and coolant. make sure no leaks from before. disconnect battery for 15 mins, reconnect and turn all appliances off. crank her up and let idle for 15 mins to get coolant through system. after it cools, top off and you should be ready.

hope this helps.

 

[oahrens]

exactly

rossneag,

That's exactly what I plan on doing as far as the cooling system. Great info!

Assuming that the heads/block isn't cracked and I replace the head gasket what else should be replaced while I'm at it?

 

[Ross-N-Chicago]

If youre going to replace the head gasket and bolts, I would get Fords full gasket set for all of it, head, both intakes, valve covers. Well worth the extra $$ b/c they redesigned them with metal and neoprene vs cork. And I would replace the injector o-rings while everything is off. Hows the alternator, a/c compressor, IAC/Air bypass valve?? You can clean the bypass valve with brake cleaner after you disconnect it. Give you intakes a good cleaning while off too. That's all I can think of. I would also suggest making the switch to synthetics ASAP. At the very least in the engine, go Amsoil. Do a search if you don' t believe me.

Something else to consider would be replacing your plugs and wires while at it. Open the gap up to .59-.060 and get Magnecor ($75) or Jacobs ($55) wires. There is a lot of debate over plugs, consensus is that Autolite copper burns more completely, OEM platinums last longer, and Bosch +4s only empty your wallet. Dont forget to reset the computer after all is done. Disconnect neg terminal, turn lights on and let alone for 20-30 minutes. Start it back up with no accessories on and let idle for 15 and then drive. Whoopeeee!

 

[oahrens]

rossneag-
Thanks for all the great info!!! The last 2 fluid changes have been with synthetics.

I'm going to inspect/clean/replace plugs, wires, cylinders, valves, head, block, intake. All gaskets and seals will also be replaced. Is there a preference for gasket sets? (OEM vs. Mr.Gasket) At the same time, cooling system to be replaced. (see link below)
Sorry for the post ping-pong.
Dead Link Removed

What is the reason/advantage to overgapping the plugs?

 

[Ross-N-Chicago]

Reason for overgapping plugs is that with the better spark delivery from aftermarket wires it will help the fuel combust more completely. Go to www.jacobselectronics.com and check out their wires, cheaper than Magnecor and every bit as good.

Stay with Ford OEM gaskets. Be sure to get the best RTV you can, you don't want to have to do that job twice. If you don't mind changing plugs after 20 25K, I would try the Autolite copper. I already put OEM Platinum in mine with the opened gap and have had no complaints. My idle and throttle response really improved. The new water pump also keeps my coolant temp locked at O in Normal. Before replacing it would rise to the A, drop back down past N and so forth. Now its stationary.

Look into Amsoil's Power Foam (intake and Thr body clnr) and Power Improver (fuel inj clnr). I have used both with success. I can get for you if you want; Pwr Foam is about 4/can and PI is same. Let me know.

Ross

 

[Jon_Herr]

Water Pump a Weakness?

Was the oem water pump not efficient enough?

I see a lot of references to replacing the oem pump and getting better cooling.

My girlfriend's '93 doesn't overheat but does occasionally 'wander' to about 3/4 gauge then back to 1/4.

It does this at random - may go for months without doing it.

 

[Ross-N-Chicago]

yeah, the X temp gauge is real time so that's why it wanders. other cars and trucks is electronically stabilized. after ten years, though, the water pump bearings were talking to me so i just swapped it out after i saw some coolant leaking from the top left near the t stat housing. so maybe the new one circulates the coolant a little better.

 

[TPLYNCH]

Re: Water Pump a Weakness?

Originally posted by Jon_Herr

My girlfriend's '93 doesn't overheat but does occasionally 'wander' to about 3/4 gauge then back to 1/4.

It does this at random - may go for months without doing it.

Try replacing the radiator cap if you haven't yet.

 

[Ross-N-Chicago]

good call on the rad cap. i like the looks of the OEM, just make sure its rated for 16lbs.