Underwater

[kubben]

A lot of the trails around here are river beds or trails that end up having to go thru rivers. I am always worried about getting my engine flooded or having an electricial short. If the starter gets in contact with water will the truck short out? Also when the engine is running, no water can go up the tail pipe right? So the only other way for the engine to get water is thru the air filter correct?
Also what else should water not get into contact?

Thanks

 

[mattadams]

as long as air is going out the tailpipe yes water won't get into the engine. I don't believe getting the started in contact with water will cause it to short out, otherwise I probably would've shorted out a few times by now, since the st arter is on the very bottom of the vehicle. Water in the diff's is another thing to worry about, the rear one has a nice long air breather tube but the front one has a little 6-inch with a curly-q breather tube, I like many other list members have bought alonger tube to bring this all the way up to the top of the engine compartment. They say that anytime you go through water that is more then bearing-deep you should repack your bearings... I have to pretty frequently anyways so its just part of the routine . Make yourself a snorkel - you'd be the first one on the list to have one I think!

 

[kubben]

Wheelin

Well the reason I asked is because this Sunday I went wheeling down a river bed. I went thru some water/mud mixture and after I got done the engine makes this noise when I accelerate now. It sounds like I don't really know how to describe, sort of like a lot of air is being pressed through a really small hole. Any ideas on what I might of messed up?

 

[Seth]

Where can I find these breather tubes? And how do I repack my bearings?

 

[kubben]

Tubes

The tubes are on the top of your diffs.
Black hose.

 

[jDan]

Kubben,
Check all of your vacume hoses. My friend had a
similar sound coming out of his motor. Check the
lines near the master cylinder. hope this helps.

 

[kubben]

Problem Fixed

After searching and searching I found the problem.
Well when me and Sinjin[PEZ] installed my bull horn HE ran the line from the horn to my CB UNDER the grommet rubber. Therefore you could hear engine noise a lot more and that is what it was. It's all his fault. =) j/k

 

[Sinjin]

oooops sorry, well im glad you got it figured out. So are you sure you still want me to come over Sunday?

 

[kubben]

Sure

Yea Sunday we need to put those better breathers on.
Maybe go to the Slabs. Isn't there another 4x4 in Austin?
Might want to join us.

 

[mattadams]

whhops, I've missed this thread until now. The breather tubes like mentioned before are just black rubber tubes on the top of the diff. The one on the front diff looks almost like a question mark with a long peart at the bottom. It's standard tubing though, so I just took it to the Home Depot, found a size similar (I think it was 3/8" but I'm not sure) and a hose clamp. I brought the tube up to the top of hte engine compartment and zip-tied it near the EVAP canister (the black rectangular thing with the two black knobs on top that often smells like gas)

As for repacking your bearings its a pretty easy procedures. Pop off the wheel, take off your hubs (if its manual hubs its a simple four-step procedure. 1)take off hub 2)remove the torqued nut 3)remove teh circle thing with the circle on it (don't you love my technical terminology) and 4)remove the other nut. Beneath that nut it your outer bearing, this one is easiest. Just pop the bad boy out, examine it for anything not functioning properly, get a gobful of bearing grease in your hand, and run the bearing through this grease, making sure to get as much grease in the cracks and crevaces as possible. The inner bearing is a bit tougher, you've gotta remove the calipur, remove the ABS sensor (this is the real *****) if so equipped and take off the rotor. Then you've gotta remove the seal from the back of the rotor and re-pack the same way as before, then reverse the order it took to get these parts off . Torque specs are in the hayes manual...