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Used t-case - cost?

Jason, I got your PM and will send over the schematics.

First, do this:
You should definitely be able to get the t-case into low range by hand with the trans in neutral (e-brake on or wheels chocked!). You might need to put a pliers on the lever and give it some force if there is some drivetrain bind, but it should go into and out of low manually.

If you absolutely cannot get it into and out of low, something is mechanically wrong.

Then do this:
While you have the motor disconnected from the t-case, but still plugged in electrically, note the motor's position (sharpie or paint pen work great). Start up the truck, and try switching the dash switch from 4 hi to low as you normally would. Do the 4 low lights come on? Go under the truck, did the motor position move?

If yes to both of the above, then the motor is weak, replace it. Everything else is fine. If no to above, then it's most likely a relay problem.

The sensor that tells the GEM if the unit has shifted, and what range it the case is in, is built into the motor.
 



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Before I sent that T-case out, I was able to shift it manually with a pair of pliers, in & out of low and listened to it "click". It seemed fine to me. This is why I suggested to have the rig on flat ground and to rock the truck or move in one direction for drive line build up.

If it wont go into Low manually, something is wrong with it, just send it back. :(
 






OK
1st off GMan if you sold him t-case it works vs the old one that was making sounds
did old t-case shift fine??
if so, did you try shift motor from it on the new tcase
just because you have it off and watch it spin when you have electric to it , does not mean it is good at all.
You need to take shift motor off, drive it around in high range make sure drives ok thats 1st check
2nd climb under ur rig, on flat ground, in neutral, no brake on, might have someone spot you, and rock it back and forth while trying to turn into low. They often require a little rocking, when bolted in veh, checking on a bench it wont but you have drivetrain bind when all hooked up, if gman checked it and went into low then it should do it again for you, next when it goes into low cause it will, you need to actually drive it around, noow when thats done -t-case mechanicals are fine, you now know you have a shifting motor problem, and need to diagnois it.
***Also toward the beginning of this you acted like you couldnt do this work yourself, in pic looks like you have a little lift, probally do some wheeling, you really need to learn the in and outs on your truck and do all wrenching yourself otherwise plan on spending arm and leg at shops and paying for salvage yard parts like they suggested. aka throwing money away
 






Before I sent that T-case out, I was able to shift it manually with a pair of pliers, in & out of low and listened to it "click". It seemed fine to me. This is why I suggested to have the rig on flat ground and to rock the truck or move in one direction for drive line build up.

If it wont go into Low manually, something is wrong with it, just send it back. :(

It would have helped if I had ever put it in neutral. Insert "I'm a dumbass" smiley here. :rolleyes:

Nothing wrong with the case, dude. Just the idiot who bought it from you. :D
 






OK
1st off GMan if you sold him t-case it works vs the old one that was making sounds
did old t-case shift fine??
if so, did you try shift motor from it on the new tcase
just because you have it off and watch it spin when you have electric to it , does not mean it is good at all.
You need to take shift motor off, drive it around in high range make sure drives ok thats 1st check
2nd climb under ur rig, on flat ground, in neutral, no brake on, might have someone spot you, and rock it back and forth while trying to turn into low. They often require a little rocking, when bolted in veh, checking on a bench it wont but you have drivetrain bind when all hooked up, if gman checked it and went into low then it should do it again for you, next when it goes into low cause it will, you need to actually drive it around, noow when thats done -t-case mechanicals are fine, you now know you have a shifting motor problem, and need to diagnois it.

I will try to get a chance over the next few hectic days to take the shift motor back off, manually shift it to low (being sure to put it in neutral this time :rolleyes:), and go for a spin. Is it worth putting power to the motor to shift that into low, putting it back onto the case (which is in low manually) and trying to see if it'll recognize it's position and shift OUT of low? Thanks for the help on this.

***Also toward the beginning of this you acted like you couldnt do this work yourself, in pic looks like you have a little lift, probally do some wheeling, you really need to learn the in and outs on your truck and do all wrenching yourself otherwise plan on spending arm and leg at shops and paying for salvage yard parts like they suggested. aka throwing money away

I definitely understand what a rip-off shops can be, and have done a lot of work on my truck to save money, but I've never touched anything driveline related. Add to that the fact that I live in an apartment with no mechanically inclined roommates and no garage, and that my truck is my daily driver that I need to commute 40 miles a day to work and I'm sure you can understand my hesitation to attempt a t-case swap by myself.
 






So you got it into low range manually by hand? Just guessing here, but it sounds like that might be a possibility. Which is a good thing :)

Edit: You posted at about same time. I didnt see your last post. You can shift it by hand and ziptie the shift motor up to the frame for a low range test drive. After your satisfied with that, Shift it back to high and you can bolt it back up till you figure out your problem
 












Haha, sorry gman. I ran out of PTO days and I'm back on the grind. I also no longer have access to a garage and have a "to-do" list the size of Montana. :(

I will eventually get to this, but it's going to be very delayed. I'll likely start with manually switching it into low and see what that gets me, and then start testing the relay. I'll bump the thread when that time comes, but for the immediate future, I don't have the time to give any of this a shot. It doesn't help that it's like 9 degrees out, either.
 






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