Originally posted by hydroxy
Now... my laundry list of questions
Are the side moldings(on doors, not fenders) held on differently on the limiteds (95-97)? I'm going to be painting mine next weekend (weather permitting). I was planning on just leaving the plastic panels on and taping everything else off...
They were held on with an adheasive tape, the kind that is kind of like a thin foam. I used the hair dryer and fishing line method (do a search) and it came right off.
You mentioned it's going to take a long time to cure... how long? (Its going to be like 30-40 outside when I paint probably). Does the long cure time effect it in any negative way?
When I painted a different car a couple years ago, I was told not to wax it or anything for 30 days, that the paint needed to cure completly. This was in the middle of the summer, where temps were warm. I really dont know if the cold will effect it at all, body shops send cars out all the time after just drying a bit...
How come you didn't use a primer?
I didnt think I would need to, I just sanded the existing paint real good. The paint store said that if the original paint was adhearing well to the plastic, to just scuff it up real good and the new paint would stick to the old.
How did you prep the rear bumper?
I just scuffed it up real good and made sure it was good and clean.
I was told if you take off the plastic parts on the rear bumper that you have to break clips inorder to do so - is that correct?
Not if you are careful.
lastly... what is this metal prep solvent you speak of?
I used PPG brand DX-330, also simply called Metal Prep, its basically a super strong laquer thinner based (I think) solvent, that will remove any wax, grease, tar, or anything else that might be on the surface your trying to paint. You should wipe everything down with this, the use a tack clothe on everything, then paint.
Sorry for all the questions
No problem, let me know if you have anything more...