VairKing FINALLY modifies his X: Custom Paint Job! Warning, 12 pics | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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VairKing FINALLY modifies his X: Custom Paint Job! Warning, 12 pics

Well as a lot of you know, I have always hated the way the fender flairs look on my '97 Eddie Bauer. Well I toyed with a few ideas, and a few months ago took all the flairs/running boards off, and have been driving it like that. I liked the look, but the little holes drove me nuts. Well this weekend I finally got around to doing something about it, and painted all the trim. I think the results speak for themselves and am VERY happy! Ive got a little wetsanding/buffing to do, but it came out well!

Here is a before shot, perfectly clean and stock truck:
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Prepped for paint:
8316bodywork1.jpg


8316bodywork2.jpg


Various body trim parts:
8316bodywork3.jpg


8316bodywork4.jpg


Truck painted:
8316bodywork5.jpg


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Heres the finished product, again, Im totally excited, the truck looks a million times better!
8316bodywork9.jpg


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8316bodywork12.jpg


I plan on losing the pinstrip soon, and possibly do a mountineer front end with a 99+ explorer bumper...Should look pretty sweet! Let me know what you all think!
 



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Looks great! I'm not a fan of two-tone either.

I only wish my shop was that clean....:rolleyes:
 



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Originally posted by hydroxy
Now... my laundry list of questions :D

Are the side moldings(on doors, not fenders) held on differently on the limiteds (95-97)? I'm going to be painting mine next weekend (weather permitting). I was planning on just leaving the plastic panels on and taping everything else off...
They were held on with an adheasive tape, the kind that is kind of like a thin foam. I used the hair dryer and fishing line method (do a search) and it came right off.

You mentioned it's going to take a long time to cure... how long? (Its going to be like 30-40 outside when I paint probably). Does the long cure time effect it in any negative way?
When I painted a different car a couple years ago, I was told not to wax it or anything for 30 days, that the paint needed to cure completly. This was in the middle of the summer, where temps were warm. I really dont know if the cold will effect it at all, body shops send cars out all the time after just drying a bit...

How come you didn't use a primer?
I didnt think I would need to, I just sanded the existing paint real good. The paint store said that if the original paint was adhearing well to the plastic, to just scuff it up real good and the new paint would stick to the old.

How did you prep the rear bumper?
I just scuffed it up real good and made sure it was good and clean.

I was told if you take off the plastic parts on the rear bumper that you have to break clips inorder to do so - is that correct?
Not if you are careful.

lastly... what is this metal prep solvent you speak of?
I used PPG brand DX-330, also simply called Metal Prep, its basically a super strong laquer thinner based (I think) solvent, that will remove any wax, grease, tar, or anything else that might be on the surface your trying to paint. You should wipe everything down with this, the use a tack clothe on everything, then paint.


Sorry for all the questions
No problem, let me know if you have anything more...
 






my body shop baked it in a uv light treatment room type deal. they said if you dont bake it, you shouldnt wax it for a few weeks, but since they did bake it, i could do wateveri wanted as soon as i wanted. not sure if that is true.
 






Looks great VairKing! Maybe I'll be able to get a close up look at that some time. I recently had the side of my X repainted and the body shop that did it told me wait 90 days before waxing...I guess mine wasn't "baked"?
 






A Black Grill From an XLS would look great. As far as painting plastic, I painted the Trim around my Radio/Heater controls silver like the new Sport/Sport Trac, and it stuck fine but if you bump it with ANYTHING, it'll scratch right off.
 






Originally posted by enyego
A Black Grill From an XLS would look great. As far as painting plastic, I painted the Trim around my Radio/Heater controls silver like the new Sport/Sport Trac, and it stuck fine but if you bump it with ANYTHING, it'll scratch right off.

You should sand off the rubberized coating if you paint the bezel, or it will scratch off like you described. Laquer thinner softens the coating up also, and makes it easier to remove.
 






The painted areas look better than the rest of the trucks paint job. Look like some wet sanding is in order.
 






"It will buff right out..."
 






I'd recommend painting or replacing the bumpers to black, as well as the grill. I think it'd make it look even better.
 






nice work, wanna paint mine?

-Rich
 






holly old thread man...although it does looks preety sweet......(i am a fan of the tan sadly..)
 






crazeinc said:
I'd recommend painting or replacing the bumpers to black, as well as the grill. I think it'd make it look even better.
I agree. All black instead of two little strips of chrome. So there aren't any pictures of the finished product?
 






SkanlaxJMO said:
holly old thread man...although it does looks preety sweet......(i am a fan of the tan sadly..)

I gotta revive any old thread of michigan members to get them active ;)

-Rich
 






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