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Vibration during braking after rotors were turned.

Post number 7 has been selected as best answered.

jmanolop

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Year, Model & Trim Level
'03 XLS 4.0L 2WD
I got my rotors turned 3 weeks ago, because i felt vibration during the braking, after the resurface the problem was gone.
Now 3 weeks later and a 1000 miles round trip, i feel vibration again.
What's the next thing to do to solve the vibration issue?
('03 Explorer XLS, 4.0 L 2RWD)
 



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Replace the rotors. Did they measure the rotors before and after machining? They may have been too thin to begin with. Most rotors now-a-days do not have much thickness between "new", "machine to" and "discard" thickness.
 






Hey! Hello. I checked the rotors and the brake pads, they are good.
But I noticed that my struts aren't in a good shape, neither the upper ball joints.
so, I decided to change the 4 struts, and the ball joints. (I'm planning a 3k round trip, and keeping my truck several more years, so is worth).
I'll tell y'all how it changed the truck.
 






Thanks for the update. Yeah, let us know how it turns out. I have the same issue and thinking about replacing the rotors with factory ones. Be interested to know what you find out on yours first.
 






I got my rotors turned 3 weeks ago, because i felt vibration during the braking, after the resurface the problem was gone.
Now 3 weeks later and a 1000 miles round trip, i feel vibration again.
What's the next thing to do to solve the vibration issue?
('03 Explorer XLS, 4.0 L 2RWD)

I had this same problem. Had the rotors turned and a month later they were warped. Had to get em replaced.
 






Turning rotors is really.... stupid. The TWO purposes of a brake rotor is to provide a friction surface for the brake pad AND to be a heat sink for the heat generated. Heat sinks work best when there is more material to sink that heat into. Machining the rotors down only takes away from that heat sinkable material.

AND- during the braking process, localized hot spots can form on the surface of the rotor. These hot spots will actually change the makeup of the iron based metal and turn that localized area into cementite. Cementite, as the name suggests, is very hard. Harder than the rest of the metal in fact. These hot spots don't wear down as fast as the rest of the rotor. And when hit with a cutting tool on a lathe, these spots can actually deflect the cutting tool, thus making the problem even worse.

And according to Stop Tech, or more precisely- Carrol Smith, brake rotors don't warp. Brake pad material builds up unevenly on the face of the rotor, giving the feel of a warped brake rotor.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

Either way: get new, highly quality, blank rotors.
 






Tom, great explanation! I learned something from it. In my case they had already turned the rotors so i had no choice. I wasn't paying for that and new rotors. So I just went with it, and a month later I had funds for new rotors.
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