First off thanks for the great reply...
How did you end up getting the bolts out of the metal sleeve? Was it on both sides or just one?
I very well could be in the same situation, my truck has been through 12 New England winters so they maybe stuck in there.
Will be proceeding with this tomorrow.
Thanks again Lex :biggthump
On mine, The lower bolts came loose with little fuss, but both upper bolts (through shackle and frame) were seized to the sleeve. I could remove the nut , but when trying to remove the bolt, the sleeve turns in the bushing. Once this happens, there is no easy way to remove them. Bushing replacement is often needed, besides they are worn anyway. Since buying new bushings is not cost effective from Ford, use Energy suspensions rear axle bushing kit. The part number is in my thread on page one, 2124 is the # I think. About 50 bucks. Comes with both all 4 leaf spring bushings, and the frame bushing.
Warrior shackles come with new bolts, so don't worry about cost of those. I used a torch to cut both ends of the bolt off, then bent the factory shackle off with a prybar. This also heats the bushing up to the point of melting the rubber, so you can use a air hammer to drive the center portion out. From there you need to get the rubber out,use the torch to burn it a bit, scrape that out, and use a screwdriver to get the last bits out. LEAVE THE OUTER BUSHING SLEEVE in place, undamaged it is reused. I removed any remains, and rust with a metal toothbrush, looking wire brush.
The leaf spring have two bushings each, so 4 bushings to replace total, since it's in the kit you might as well install it. I pressed the center section of the bushing out and as much rubber as possible with a ball joint press. Then used a air hammer to cut the outer bushing sleeve. In this case, it is not reused like the one in the frame. cut it with the air hammer right where the coil of the spring ends. Then it is just a matter of bending the shell and hammering until it's out. clean and install bushing. The front bushing is the same deal, press , heat , cut. Though I haven't installed mine yet.
During all this torch use, you will need a sheet of metal, as a heat shield above the work area. Especially on left side near the fuel line area. Also note the evap canister bracket melts really easy. Something like a old license plate works really well. Have a hose nearby just in case.Understand there will be considerable flames off the bushing during heating. use a heat shield, don't panic and let it burn a bit. blow it out when needed. spraying water on it will cool it to quick and make it harder to remove, so only use it if you see something other than the bushing getting way to hot.
I've only driven 10 miles or so on it tonight, but can say the ride height is now how it should have been from the factory, its perfect. Cant say for sure but the back end so far feels much more planted and secure, with very little if any additional noise transmitted with the urethane bushings. I think it feels much better than stock, even though its now higher. I'd do the bushings even if they weren't sized if you are doing your own labor. If not, it is probably gonna be several hours labor so figure 250 bucks maybe more for install.
Either way you choose, if you have to, or want to replace the bushings, know it's a dirty kinda pain in the ass job to do, that took me 2.5 hours on a hoist. Plan for cursing. In a driveway, double that.
but which way to you install the warrior shackles??? With the longer end down or the shorter end down connecting to the leaf spring?
