Water pump failure leads to dead engine | Page 52 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Water pump failure leads to dead engine

Should Ford cover part of all of this repair out of loyalty?

  • Yes, a water pump failure at 95k should not destroy an engine

    Votes: 155 87.6%
  • No, and please quit whining about it

    Votes: 22 12.4%

  • Total voters
    177
Not many FWD Limited models. Most were AWD. I can honestly say this has probably helped the longevity of your vehicle by not having a PTU all together. They definitely do not last 200k miles.

I would look at the water pump age more than miles. How long ago was it replaced? Did you use OEM parts? What else was done at time of replacement?

A 10 year old car with low miles is more likely to leak than a car with average miles of the same age. Gaskets dry up and crumble over time when sitting.
I have neither low miles nor average miles. Its high miles. 315000
The water pump was replaced with the timing chain, and guides, the front crank seal and the oil pump in Dec 2019 I dont know where my guy got the parts, but I do know he had to buy a $300 tool (to hold the cams in place, I think) which makes me think he went to Ford
 



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I have a doubt with the coolant reservoir is there really a way to measure this if some coolant is leaking because with mine sometimes the level is in the middle of the two lines other times is barely on top line other times it passes the top line i know it should be checked when cold so can some one explain me which is the way i would appreciate. Also is one line for cold and one for hot or both are for cold and should be between. I also understand the thermostate open and close but the question is so if its leaking has to drop below the bottom line? thanks to all.
 






Always check the level when the engine is cold and as per the Manual, make sure that the coolant level is between the MIN and MAX marks on the
coolant reservoir. Since it is a closed system, the level should not vary much, if at all when the engine is cold. See page 280 in the Manual (3rd print). It is all explained there.

Peter
 






Not being a mechanic I was a bit confused as to what the issue was with the water pumps and why they would cause such a catastrophic failure. Then I saw this...


You can skip to about 8:25 if the link doesn't work correctly. That is where he starts taking off the timing cover. He explains the issue with the water pump.
 






Not being a mechanic I was a bit confused as to what the issue was with the water pumps and why they would cause such a catastrophic failure. Then I saw this...


You can skip to about 8:25 if the link doesn't work correctly. That is where he starts taking off the timing cover. He explains the issue with the water pump.


The f150 is not the same as Explorer some design differences. The 3.5 Transverse ecoboost does have a weep hole built into the block so it will leak coolant by the alternator if water pump is bad
I just did mine at 130k. Also, there is no external passage on the explorer pump. There is a pipe between the heads that connects to top of engine that distributes coolant. There is no room for anything on front of the transverse 3.5 it is stuffed against the frame rail
 






I back again for help. I took my 16 Ford Explorer to dealer for a red fluid leak around the ac compressor are as on the pictures they did a pressure test and found no leaks. Inspect engine found passenger side top engine mount leaking. How the leak was going there anyways replaced the engine mount and the leak continue i never saw droplets just sticky residue ok so another day coming from a 15 min trip i saw the second pic with the drops called the dealer and told me to take it. pressure test again and passed he said truck hold 16 psi and found nothing guy gets mad at me saying my truck is very clean under the hood and that all fluids are where they need to be. i show him the pics and he don't know where its coming from. I check all fluids and all are where there need to be the only one changing is coolant reservoir but is fluctuating on me. ok leak is still coming slowly with no drops just leaky red substance. should i take it to different dealer or could be possible while driving is slowly leaking or is trap inside and slowly droping or is something totally different that the waterpump. But if i take it to a new dealer and passes again the pressure test ? Other than that truck still runs like new with 83000 miles no overheat and no noises

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I back again for help. I took my 16 Ford Explorer to dealer for a red fluid leak around the ac compressor are as on the pictures they did a pressure test and found no leaks. Inspect engine found passenger side top engine mount leaking. How the leak was going there anyways replaced the engine mount and the leak continue i never saw droplets just sticky residue ok so another day coming from a 15 min trip i saw the second pic with the drops called the dealer and told me to take it. pressure test again and passed he said truck hold 16 psi and found nothing guy gets mad at me saying my truck is very clean under the hood and that all fluids are where they need to be. i show him the pics and he don't know where its coming from. I check all fluids and all are where there need to be the only one changing is coolant reservoir but is fluctuating on me. ok leak is still coming slowly with no drops just leaky red substance. should i take it to different dealer or could be possible while driving is slowly leaking or is trap inside and slowly droping or is something totally different that the waterpump. But if i take it to a new dealer and passes again the pressure test ? Other than that truck still runs like new with 83000 miles no overheat and no noises

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That sure looks like a weep hole leak to me. It is located right under the alternator and will drip onto the compressor and oil pan area. Definitely stop driving if you can. I can almost guarantee your water pump is about to leak into the oil pan. All the signs add up... Coolant reservoir level drops and coolant dripping down block. Definitely internal waterpump gasket failure.
 






That sure looks like a weep hole leak to me. It is located right under the alternator and will drip onto the compressor and oil pan area. Definitely stop driving if you can. I can almost guarantee your water pump is about to leak into the oil pan. All the signs add up... Coolant reservoir level drops and coolant dripping down block. Definitely internal waterpump gasket failure.
thank you for your reply i'll be booking another appointment to another dealer to see what they said the thing the truck may pass the pressure tests so they may think am crazy. Another thing to point is the coolant level on hot is at max line when the fluctuation happens its at cold some times close to the middle and some times lower.
 






thank you for your reply i'll be booking another appointment to another dealer to see what they said the thing the truck may pass the pressure tests so they may think am crazy. Another thing to point is the coolant level on hot is at max line when the fluctuation happens its at cold some times close to the middle and some times lower.
Just about any fluid that leaks from a vehicle will have an oily texture except for coolant and windshield washer fluid. Get some of the leaking fluid on your fingers and see if it feels oil based or water based. Maybe get some on a paper towel and see if it evaporates or remains on the paper like oil would. Engine oil, power steering fluid and transmission fluid should feel much different from coolant. Also, coolant has a unique smell to it as does engine oil and transmission fluid.
 












Sure looks like coolant to my eyes. Looks no different than when my water pump recently went out on me on my 2014 Equinox with 152k miles.
 






Just about any fluid that leaks from a vehicle will have an oily texture except for coolant and windshield washer fluid. Get some of the leaking fluid on your fingers and see if it feels oil based or water based. Maybe get some on a paper towel and see if it evaporates or remains on the paper like oil would. Engine oil, power steering fluid and transmission fluid should feel much different from coolant. Also, coolant has a unique smell to it as does engine oil and transmission fluid.
coolant is the only fluid that is getting low very slowly sometimes is dry under the hood others liquid appears but dealer says its clean and pressure test passed two times in a month
 






Always check the level when the engine is cold and as per the Manual, make sure that the coolant level is between the MIN and MAX marks on the
coolant reservoir. Since it is a closed system, the level should not vary much, if at all when the engine is cold. See page 280 in the Manual (3rd print). It is all explained there.

Peter
It seems to me that a slow leak isnt the real problem (unless its ignored) My point is that by doing things like checking the reservoir level, checking the oil for that "milkshake look" looking for puddles etc. you can see the problem before it causes any real harm.

Its the catastrophic failure of the water pumps shaft seal that will dump all the coolant at once into the oil

would something like this, with a low level alarm (not just low, but empty) help

1629575079574.png
 






coolant is the only fluid that is getting low very slowly sometimes is dry under the hood others liquid appears but dealer says its clean and pressure test passed two times in a month
I would do what I said earlier and get some of this fluid on your fingers and see if it is oil based or water based. If it is water based, is dripping from under the car AND your coolant level is dropping the pump needs to be replaced. No pressure test etc. means anything. It might only leak when the car is running at operating temperatures and not show up with a pressurte test. I would make them put the car on a lift, show them the where the fluid is leaking and have them tell you where the leak is coming from and what fluid is leaking. If they refuse to fix the leak then have them specify what they found on the exit ticket. Then find another dealer to look at the car. Our Edge had a transmission issue and one dealer refused to diagnose and fix it. The second dealer diagnosed and fixed the problem on the first visit. They did almost $4k worth of work under warranty.
 












ok leak is worse i was able to see the drop coming out of the weep hole now my question is can i drive it to the dealer like this ? is 5 Miles away 15 min/
 






ok leak is worse i was able to see the drop coming out of the weep hole now my question is can i drive it to the dealer like this ? is 5 Miles away 15 min/
if its leaking from the weep hole its probably not leaking into the oil. check the oil, top off the coolant and Id go for it,

On the other hand $50 tow vs $6000 engine...you gotta decide
 






You will be fine.

I know you are paying a shop to do the work so nothing is cheap however I recommend replacing the entire timing system. New chains, guides, tensioners, etc.. maybe even phasers and vct solenoids depending on condition. Additionally, all of the timing parts are going to be removed snd reinstalled so be sure the shop has the skill and knowledge to perform the job. I believe Ford rates it somewhere between 10-14 hrs of labor.

You can pickup a timing set on RockAuto it will include everything except phasers and sensors
 






You will be fine.

I know you are paying a shop to do the work so nothing is cheap however I recommend replacing the entire timing system. New chains, guides, tensioners, etc.. maybe even phasers and vct solenoids depending on condition. Additionally, all of the timing parts are going to be removed snd reinstalled so be sure the shop has the skill and knowledge to perform the job. I believe Ford rates it somewhere between 10-14 hrs of labor.

You can pickup a timing set on RockAuto it will include everything except phasers and sensors
An update dealer wants $3500 just for water pump and $5500 to replace everything in the motor says rebuild motor cost $9000 other shops $2500 just for water pump.Palm Beach Florida.
 



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If there is no sign of oil contamination I don't know why they would "replace everything in the motor". Basically, all you should need to do is to replace the pump and the timing chain as long as they are in there. The biggest cost is for labour.

Peter
 






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