What could have been damaged in reverse polarity?

[Josh P]

I can help with an engine replacement. I've done several

 

[Josh P]

So, the initial assessment is there is a fuel pump issue and an ignition issue. All relays and fuses tested good. Pcm does provide power for the fuel pump relay, relay is good. There is battery voltage to the inertia switch and it's not tripped so the issue appears to be at the fuel pump. Ignition issue, weak spark when doing the screw driver to ground test. I pulled the square connector off at the rear of the engine and found corrosion on the pins. Didn't have any cleaner, reseated the connector and was able to get the engine to run on starting fluid. This was also the only time the check engine light illuminated. Tach barely moved but there was enough starting fluid going into the engine to spin it above 4k rpm. We did pull and reset the crankshaft position sensor. Dpfe sensor isn't present on the engine. Reference voltage at the sensor plug is 5.07V. I'll post pictures of the square plug for opinions.

 

[Turdle]

Did the fuel pump relay click at all?

By chance did you wiggle it to see if pump kicked on?

 

[Josh P]

Did the fuel pump relay click at all?

When the key is cycled, I hear relays click. Would there be voltage at the inertia switch without a functional relay? Also, I removed the relay and jumpered across to rule out the relay. Pump doesn't fire up. Looking at the link you posted it is mentioned the check engine light must illuminate for the pump to work. I'm not ruling it out as a bad pump yet but there is no fuel at the rail.

 

[Turdle]

Nope , you are on it and I asked a bad question.

Next step I guess is to jumper voltage to the pump and see if it runs.

Do I see some heat damage in that connector? One pin sure looks white

 

[Josh P]

Nope , you are on it and I asked a bad question.

See my edited post above

 

[Turdle]

See my edited post above

Ok, I m with ya

 

[Josh P]

Nope , you are on it and I asked a bad question.

Next step I guess is to jumper voltage to the pump and see if it runs.

Do I see some heat damage in that connector? One pin sure looks white

It is a white pin and there is something coating all the pins on the male side, looks slightly white in color as well

 

[Turdle]

I know it's not my money but a new fuel pump motor just to eliminate it since it's probably old anyway. The check engine light bugs me though.

 

[Pete Deering]

I put in a new main fuse and it still does the same thing. Crank, no start. I took a look at the power diode. I'm not sure if O'Reilly's has one. I might have to order it offline. After reading about it it definitely sounds like this could be the problem. But with my luck I'm pretty sure it's not going to be. Haha. How would I double check to make sure it's getting gas? I feel like if it's not electrical related it has to be fuel related. If I didn't know any better I would guess it wasn't getting gas. But in this case I hooked the battery up wrong so..

Disconnect the inlet line too the fuel filter, and catch the fuel if its coming out. Maybe change it if it has not been done.

 

[Pete Deering]

Yeah, that would be great. I'm located right around the corner from the Phoenix Children's Hospital. I also just recently purchased a crate engine and I'm waiting for that to be delivered. I need to get this to be able to start so I can slap the engine in. I have very little experience in engine swaps and I definitely would be willing to pay for assistance. I have a few friends who can help out

Just mark or tag ,all the connection. You think you'll remember, but you dont. Take pictures. I used beer boxes. As I remove section by section, I uses a different box to hold too the different parts and nuts, bolt, Orings and gaskets

 

[Turdle]

Engine swap shopping list

1) 4x6 carpet remnant to lay on n back hatch with seats folded down. This is your removed parts storage shed. Place removed parts as far forward so they will be ready for the big install in order.

2)Large zip lock baggies. Quart ziplock baggies.

To hold bolts and parts. Black sharpie to mark parts baggies.
3) Frog tape to tape baggies to respective parts.

This will help keep things well organized in the event a long term storage is required.

4) different colors of paint markers, or, even old various colors of nail polish can be used to color code vacuum and electric connectors.

 

[Turdle]

First though, we need a check engine light with key on. That light signifies the pcm is on .

 

[Josh P]

First though, we need a check engine light with key on. That light signifies the pcm is on .

Light works on the dash but there is an issue with the pcm receiving signal from the crankshaft sensor. I'm thinking the square connector at the back of the engine needs to have the contacts cleaned first, then determine what doesn't work.

 

[Josh P]

I know it's not my money but a new fuel pump motor just to eliminate it since it's probably old anyway. The check engine light bugs me though.

Check engine light is good now. Replaced the crankshaft sensor and the bulb in the dash. Cleaned the harness connectors. Fuel pump is bad, when I push the valve in on the test port at the rail, key cycles on, I got a dribble of fuel out which tells me the pump tried to do something. He is going to cut an access hole in the floor above the gas tank and get a new pump. The motor has an intake valve that doesn't close all the way, can hear compression in the intake, makes it sound like a 2 stroke when running on starting fluid. The dash is now back together, attached are some photos showing the progress.

 

[sehaare]

Check engine light is good now. Replaced the crankshaft sensor and the bulb in the dash. Cleaned the harness connectors. Fuel pump is bad, when I push the valve in on the test port at the rail, key cycles on, I got a dribble of fuel out which tells me the pump tried to do something. He is going to cut an access hole in the floor above the gas tank and get a new pump. The motor has an intake valve that doesn't close all the way, can hear compression in the intake, makes it sound like a 2 stroke when running on starting fluid. The dash is now back together, attached are some photos showing the progress.

View attachment 438139 View attachment 438140

good on you man, you went way above and beyond to help the guy out.

Up here in chicagoland, due to the winter salt rust under the car, I'd have to cut a hole if I was going to replace the fuel pump (If I dropped the tank, I'd probably snap/strip everything that holds the tank up). But in AZ, with a guy who is willing to take on an engine swap I would think that dropping the tank to do it right would be a no brainer.

just being a monday morning second guessing quarterback with that comment.

 

[Turdle]

You made quite a lot of progress! Good job. Just shows the quality guy you are.

Good thing another engine is already in the plan.