What gear ratio would be the best for a 3rd gen looking to run 33’s? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

What gear ratio would be the best for a 3rd gen looking to run 33’s?

paulballer

Member
Joined
February 25, 2022
Messages
27
Reaction score
9
City, State
California
Year, Model & Trim Level
2004, XLS, 2WD
Another question cause I can’t seem to figure anything out on my own, but Iam just about getting ready to put 33’s on my 04 exploder. I have stock 3.55 gearing and was wondering what would the best gear ratio to throw in the rear for good all around driving. Thanks for any help and feedback.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





v6 or v8? i see youre 2wd, so i would reccomend. 4.30 for all around driving. if you do more city less highway, then 4.56, and i guess 410 iif you do lots of highway. but imo 4.30 is the best all around. it will be slightly more agressive than stock, but i think it would ocmpenate nciely for the weight change in tires
 






v6 or v8? i see youre 2wd, so i would reccomend. 4.30 for all around driving. if you do more city less highway, then 4.56, and i guess 410 iif you do lots of highway. but imo 4.30 is the best all around. it will be slightly more agressive than stock, but i think it would ocmpenate nciely for the weight change in tires
Would the 4.30s be some what of a upgrade off-road too you think? Or around the same as stock?
 






what size tires you got now? i think it would be, 3.55 and 29s to 4.3 and 33 is an upgrade
 






1653261739063.png

this should get you close. i dont completely agree thoiugh, 3.55 and 29s on these aint my prefrence, 3.73-4.10is what i like with 29s. but you get the idea
 






Define all around driving? If you use it a lot more around town and highway than as a offroad toy 4.10 would be my suggestion.
 






if OP has 355, 410 is an upgrade, but imo its nothing you wpuld feel any difference/the vehicle could tell compared to stock. vs 430, i think that could be noticeable, and a good upgrade for the larger meats that are heavier. also consider wheel weight OP, more weight=more stuff to turn=more gear to do the same stuff
 






if OP has 355, 410 is an upgrade, but imo its nothing you wpuld feel any difference/the vehicle could tell compared to stock. vs 430, i think that could be noticeable, and a good upgrade for the larger meats that are heavier. also consider wheel weight OP, more weight=more stuff to turn=more gear to do the same stuff
I have 31.8’s rn so basically 32inch tires with with the stock 3.55 and it is just a little bogged down soo its not a big upgrade to 33’s but just want a fresh start.
 






I have 31.8’s rn so basically 32inch tires with with the stock 3.55 and it is just a little bogged down soo its not a big upgrade to 33’s but just want a fresh start.
if 3.55s and 32s are fine for you (personally, i like all the torque i can get 🤣 ) then 4.10s should be an upgrade, or heck even 3.73s. if youre alright with what you got now, then i would suggest getting a low mile JY unit and just swapping it in, much easier and cost efective. for me, i dont even llike 3.55 with 29s🤣 so then either 3.73 or 4.10, i would suggest 4.10, mainly for around town and offroadability, and with 3.73youprobably wouldnt even notive a difference... maybe at WOT... but thats about it imo
 






The difference between 3.55 and 4.10 in my aerostar van is with the 3.55 I could drive forever on a tank of fuel, 25-27 mpg. 4.10 I could steer the van with the gas pedal, it was easy to swing the ass end around rolling at 5 mph. It got 19-20 mpg.
 






if 3.55s and 32s are fine for you (personally, i like all the torque i can get 🤣 ) then 4.10s should be an upgrade, or heck even 3.73s. if youre alright with what you got now, then i would suggest getting a low mile JY unit and just swapping it in, much easier and cost efective. for me, i dont even llike 3.55 with 29s🤣 so then either 3.73 or 4.10, i would suggest 4.10, mainly for around town and offroadability, and with 3.73youprobably wouldnt even notive a difference... maybe at WOT... but thats about it imo
So a lower gear ratio like the 4.10s would give me more torque?
 






So a lower gear ratio like the 4.10s would give me more torque?
Engine torque gets multiplied by the transmission gear ratio, then that gets multiplied by the rear axle ratio and the total is what the tire is putting to the ground.
 






So a lower gear ratio like the 4.10s would give me more torque?
short answer: yes

long, weird answer: a larger tire will go further for every rotation it does. as such, it takes more force to move that larger tires, so gears compensate for that. by upping tire size or putting taller gears in (ie. putting 33s or going to 3.27 gears for example) the driveshaft turns slower, and that decreases the peak torque that can be put down. with shorter gears (410, or smaller tires for example) the driveshaft turns faster on the hwy, but the torque multiplication is higher. however, you balance these two elements. for exampe, i wouldnt run 5.13s on 29 inch tires, cant even hit the highway with those. but 4.10s and 32 for example, i definitely could. wouldnt have the torque of 5.13s, but 5.13s would kill my gas mileage on the hwy, if i can even hit hwy speeds. now if it was a farm vehicle that just moved stuff round, i could deal with it, and i'd like all the low end torque. all of this is within reason, go too short or too tall, and you can lose accel or towing or ability to maintain speed etc. thnk of a shorter rtio like 410s almost like putting a truck in lo range. lots of powr off the line, can probably pull a house, but you cant go fast in 4lo. this is why when you get the tow pkg, along with trans cooler etc, one also gets usually shorter gears, like the 4x4 sohc X in 98 at least came with 3.55 (i heard 3.27 was available, but never ever seen one with 4x4, 3.27, auto), but i got the tow pkg so i got 3.73s, or i couldve gotten the tow pkg with 4.10s. (in retrospect, wouldve gotten 410, but thats besides the point )

also, imo if youre looking at 410s, just get a 410 diff out of an explorer from the JY, get one with the limited slip, the change the seals and bearings, and put new clutches in. i assume they make 3rd gen 410s, at least they did for 2nd gen, so i dont see why not. or if not, regear to 410, and when youre there have em throw in a lunchbox locker like a powertrax no slip, imo the no slip or strong LS clutches is the best bang for buck for offroading, along with a nice set of ATs
 






heres a helpful article from grimmjeeper that explaisn it better that i can!!

"Over the years, I have been asked many times by people why one would want to change the gears in their axles. Until you've studied the subject it can seem a little overwhelming. But really, it's not that complicated. The following page gives an introductory description of how the parts work and why you may need to change them. There's a lot of detail missing here but this will get you started.

It helps to start by looking at what the gears inside the differential actually do. In a nutshell, the gears in the axle take power supplied from the driveshaft and sends it out through the axle shafts to the wheels. It does this by using two gears together. The two gears are called the ring gear and the pinion gear. You can see in the pictures a typical ring and pinion gear, both by themselves and as they are installed in the axle housing. The ring gear looks, well, like a ring. The pinion gear is the other one. The driveshaft connects to the shaft on the pinion gear. When the driveshaft turns, the pinion gear spins the ring gear and that makes the axle shafts turn and that's what spins the wheels. Eagle eyed readers will notice that there is a differential betwen the ring gear and the axle shafts. The differential and how it works merits its own discussion.

The axle gears have a ratio. That ratio tells you how many times the driveshaft will make a complete rotation for every one full rotation of the wheel. So if you have 4.10 gears, that's a 4.10:1 ratio, which means that for every one full rotation of the tire, the driveshaft will rotate 4.10 times. The ratio is calculated by dividing the number of teeth on the ring gear by the number of teeth on the pinion gear. As an example, if there are 41 teeth on the ring gear and 10 teeth on the pinion gear, you would have 41/10 = 4.10, giving you the 4.10 ratio.

So why change the gears? Think about what happens when you change the tire size. A bigger tire will go farther down the road for each time it makes one complete revolution. So if you bump up the tire size without changing the axle gears, your driveshaft will be turning slower when you're driving down the highway. That means your engine will be turning slower. If your engine is turning too slowly, it won't make very good power and your performance (and even fuel economy) can suffer. So to compensate, you change the axle gears. Bigger tires means higher numbers for axle gears. By changing the axle gears to match the tire size change, you put the engine speed back close to where the factory put it and you get back to factory-like performance.

So why does the factory offer different gear ratios for vehicles with the same tire size? So they can make the vehicle perform in a specific way.

Gears with lower numbers are called "taller" gears. They are given this name because a vehicle with taller gears can run faster on the highway (or race track) before the engine reaches its red line. Gears with higher numbers are called "shorter" gears. Vehicles with shorter gears will reach red line at lower speeds.

Taller gears tend to give you better fuel economy (to a point) but reduce your acceleration. Shorter gears improve acceleration at the cost of fuel economy. Switching to bigger tires has the same effect as putting in shorter gears. Putting in smaller tires has the same effect as putting in taller gears.

Shorter gears are preferred for rock crawling because they let you go much slower over the rocks. Taller gears are preferred for mud bogging because you need wheel speed to keep the tires clean and biting in the mud. Road racing cars might have taller gears to really get moving on the long straights while short track cars would never reach top speed before getting to the next corner so they would have shorter gears to get better acceleration coming out of the corners.

When changing gears in a 4x4 vehicle, it's very important to remember that you must change the gears in both axles at the same time. The transfer case is designed to work when both driveshafts are spinning at the same speed, or at least very close. Even an all wheel drive transfer case that allows the shafts to spin at different speeds make that allowance only for going around corners on the road. If there is a significant difference between the speeds of the driveshafts for an extended length of time the parts in the transfer case will break. For a part time transfer case, you'll snap a universal joint, axle shaft, yoke, or even twist the driveshaft into a pretzle. For a full time transfer case or all wheel drive transaxle, you'll wear out parts within a couple of miles that would otherwise last for tens of thousands of miles.

Another question that comes up is what you do when the gear ratios don't match exactly. The simple answer is that you just need to get them close. As long as there's less than a 1% difference between the ratios, they're considered "close enough". If your front axle only has 4.11 gears (37 ring gear teeth and 9 pinion teeth) but your rear axle has 4.09 gears (45 ring gear teeth and 11 pinion teeth) the ratios don't match exactly. But because there's only 0.02 difference between them they're considered close enough to run safely.

When changing tire size, it's hard to get back to exactly where the factory set things. For example, a new Jeep Wrangler might come from the factory with 3.73 gears in the axles and tires that are about 32 inches tall. A popular upgrade is a lift and 37" tall tires. If you wanted to swap out gears to match the tire change, you'd start with a calcluation like this: Old Gear Ratio * New Tire Size / Old Tire Size = New Gear Ratio. Plugging in the numbers you end up with 3.73 * 37 / 32 = 4.31. Trouble is, nobody makes 4.31 gears for the Jeep axles. You can get 4.10's, 4.56's, 4.88's and 5.13's. So which do you choose? The rule of thumb is that you always round up. The biggest reason you would want to do that is because larger tires are harder to move. Not only are they heavier, they're typically wider so they have a larger contact patch on the pavement and they offer more rolling resistance. It takes more to push it down the road. In this case, you'd pick 4.56 gears to end up with performance that's close to where the factory put it. A lot of people will take it a step farther and go to 4.88 or even 5.13 gears depending on what they want to get out of their Jeep. But 4.56 gears would be the closest to factory performance."
 






I have 32s with 3.73 and I definitely notice the bog down.

At 60mph on speedo I am going 66 or 67 mph actual according to GPS.
 






4.3?? No such thing as a 4.3 ring and pinion

Choices are 3.73, 4.10 or 4.56 for a 8.8

4.1 with 33’s and auto transmission
4.56 if no highway gear needed or plans to go to 35’s eventually
 






4.3?? No such thing as a 4.3 ring and pinion

Choices are 3.73, 4.10 or 4.56 for a 8.8

4.1 with 33’s and auto transmission
4.56 if no highway gear needed or plans to go to 35’s eventually
 






Sweet! Thanks Josh!!
Nitro gears are good quality too
I was searching Google!!!
Do they make for our fronts? (Reverse and regular rotation Dana 35)

I remember few years back they started making the 4.88 now we have lots of options at least for the rwd guys

So 3.27, 3.55, 3.73, 4.1, 4.3, 4.56, 4.88 and 5.13 all Avail in a 8.8 ring and pinion
 






Sweet! Thanks Josh!!
Nitro gears are good quality too
I was searching Google!!!
Do they make for our fronts? (Reverse and regular rotation Dana 35)

I remember few years back they started making the 4.88 now we have lots of options at least for the rwd guys

So 3.27, 3.55, 3.73, 4.1, 4.3, 4.56, 4.88 and 5.13 all Avail in a 8.8 ring and pinion
No 4.3 for the front. There is a 3.9 ratio also
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





4.3?? No such thing as a 4.3 ring and pinion

Choices are 3.73, 4.10 or 4.56 for a 8.8

4.1 with 33’s and auto transmission
4.56 if no highway gear needed or plans to go to 35’s eventually
there are 4.3s, but only for the rear :D

edit: saw joshs post
 






Back
Top