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What is this part and other questions

mrnapolean1

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December 1, 2015
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Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 Explorer
OK I am trying to troubleshoot the fuel gauge in my explorer.

I found out that the PO (or some other person) had cut a hole in the floor next to the drivers rear side door to get at the sender without having to drop the tank. I was quite pissed but in on with that. Ill patch it up with some sheet metal and some rivets.

What is this:
20151231_130403.jpg


And I am getting Check engine light the other day and I decided to plug my reader into it and it brought this up:
20151231_090340.jpg


Is there anything I can do to fix the power antenna?

I am still trying to troubleshoot my rear doors on how to get them to open.
 



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The part in your hand is a fuel tank pressure sensor. It reads the air pressure in the tank against the open ambient air pressure. It lets the PCM know if the evaporative emissions system is working; it fits into a circular opening in the upper surface of the fuel tank and is electrically connected to the PCM. When it is seated it makes the tank and filler hose/cap a closed system, which it has to be to function properly. If the gas cap is off, this is the sensor that causes the check engine to go on. The hole in the cab that lets you get to the top of the fuel tank is a good thing, but it should be covered. 10 self tapping screws is what I used in my set-up. P0340 indicates faulty sensor or sensor reading from the camshaft position sensor. Could be the sensor, the circuit or a bad alternator. It is a very sensitive sensor and could be thrown off if the alternator had a bad diode sending out stray voltage that the sensor is illegitimately reading. I published a thread here about how to test for it.
 






The hole in the cab that lets you get to the top of the fuel tank is a good thing, but it should be covered.

They might be like me and just be **** about that stuff. I couldn't bring myself to cut a hole in the body, when I could just spend it bit more time and effort to do it "properly". Also, that way I could check and make sure everything else was good to go. (Wiring, hoses, etc.) I had to do this on my 1st gen and my new-to-me 2nd gen. 1st gen was a SOAB and the 2nd gen was quite easy. :)
 






They might be like me and just be **** about that stuff. I couldn't bring myself to cut a hole in the body, when I could just spend it bit more time and effort to do it "properly". Also, that way I could check and make sure everything else was good to go. (Wiring, hoses, etc.) I had to do this on my 1st gen and my new-to-me 2nd gen. 1st gen was a SOAB and the 2nd gen was quite easy. :)

I'm with you 100% on not cutting a hole in the body. It would have been nice if Ford provided an access panel for the fuel pump, but as they did not, I prefer to take the time and effort to just drop the tank. It's only 3 bolts, a couple of wire connectors, 2 hose clamps and the evap hose (which always give me the most grief to take loose). I replaced 4 fuel pumps in 2015 and have a 5th to do come spring. I've got it down to a science and have learned several time-saving shortcuts. It should be noted that all but one of my trucks are rust-free, I live in GA and I have the luxury of having a spare vehicle to use if the weather is an issue.
 






The part in your hand is a fuel tank pressure sensor. It reads the air pressure in the tank against the open ambient air pressure. It lets the PCM know if the evaporative emissions system is working; it fits into a circular opening in the upper surface of the fuel tank and is electrically connected to the PCM. When it is seated it makes the tank and filler hose/cap a closed system, which it has to be to function properly. If the gas cap is off, this is the sensor that causes the check engine to go on. The hole in the cab that lets you get to the top of the fuel tank is a good thing, but it should be covered. 10 self tapping screws is what I used in my set-up. P0340 indicates faulty sensor or sensor reading from the camshaft position sensor. Could be the sensor, the circuit or a bad alternator. It is a very sensitive sensor and could be thrown off if the alternator had a bad diode sending out stray voltage that the sensor is illegitimately reading. I published a thread here about how to test for it.

Thanks for your help. I cannot seem to find your thread. Do you mind linking me to it?

And where is this fuel pressure tank sensor supposed to be at?
 






I'm with you 100% on not cutting a hole in the body. It would have been nice if Ford provided an access panel for the fuel pump, but as they did not, I prefer to take the time and effort to just drop the tank. It's only 3 bolts, a couple of wire connectors, 2 hose clamps and the evap hose (which always give me the most grief to take loose). I replaced 4 fuel pumps in 2015 and have a 5th to do come spring. I've got it down to a science and have learned several time-saving shortcuts. It should be noted that all but one of my trucks are rust-free, I live in GA and I have the luxury of having a spare vehicle to use if the weather is an issue.

I would have never cut a hole in the floor. I would have dropped the tank.
 












Explorers are getting older now, I live in Canada where salt and rust abounds. The benefits of cutting the hole are: Not dealing with rusty bolts, no lying on the ground under the vehicle, not dropping the tank means not stressing the lines, wires and such. It also turns changing your fuel pump into basically a job you could do quickly on the side of the road.

I cut the hole and then cover it with a plate and screws, butyl tape to seal it. You'd never know it's there.

Now if I lived where they don't use salt on the roads and my explorers were beyond mint condition, I'd probably consider not cutting the hole. If you do it right though, the hole doesn't need to be very large and indeed the truck should have come with a port built in.
 






I'm with you 100% on not cutting a hole in the body. It would have been nice if Ford provided an access panel for the fuel pump, but as they did not, I prefer to take the time and effort to just drop the tank. | It should be noted that all but one of my trucks are rust-free.

Yes, exactly! If it came with one, I would definitely use it. And rust is why my 1st gen was such a pain, since it came from the coast. I replaced all the fasteners with stainless steel, and if I recall correctly, the new clip nut things were coated or treated with something. I'm fairly confident I could easily drop the tank again when/if I have to.
 






Explorers are getting older now, I live in Canada where salt and rust abounds.

I totally understand. I've seen the horrors Canada can do to vehicles. In that case it obviously seems it would be in your best interest to cut an access panel.
 






Have you guys ever used lanolin as a rust preventative?
 












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