What kind of oil do you use? | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

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What kind of oil do you use?

It's also a good idea to change your filter at least once during that interval, especially since out filters are so small.

If you're using a high quality filter like I mentioned and not a regular filter like a Motorcraft that is not necessary unless you are running over 15,000 miles, determined by a UOA.
 



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There aren't that many filter that can work for more than 5000 miles without beginning to bypass dirty oil. I'll do the Amsoil filter but no others.
 






I usually use Royal Purple with kn filter when I change.
 






woops typed it twice
 






There aren't that many filter that can work for more than 5000 miles without beginning to bypass dirty oil. I'll do the Amsoil filter but no others.

I have oil analysis that show K&N and Mobil 1 filters can handle it.
 






i can't imagine going 25000 miles between oil changes! maybe you guys havent had problems, and i'm not going to tell you what to do with your truck, but for me, a $12 oil change every 3-4k miles is good cheap insurance.

same goes for tranny fluid. especially when you can just pull the line on the aux cooler and pump the old oil out without even dropping the pan.


now, if only an oil change could fix my damn exhaust manifold tick!!
 






i can't imagine going 25000 miles between oil changes! maybe you guys havent had problems, and i'm not going to tell you what to do with your truck, but for me, a $12 oil change every 3-4k miles is good cheap insurance.

same goes for tranny fluid. especially when you can just pull the line on the aux cooler and pump the old oil out without even dropping the pan.


now, if only an oil change could fix my damn exhaust manifold tick!!

Get used to the tick you can make it go away for a while, but it always seems to come back eventually.
 






i run castrol, for not any scientific reason other than i tend to stick with things. 5-20 in the focus, and 10-30 in the truck as per specs. I do my oil change around 3K and never more than 5K on the odo.
I also usually rotate the tires every service. and ballance em atleast every other.

We do maintenence for AVIS in little ferry, and they run the whole fleet at 7500 mile intervals. that seems to be a bit to long for my tastes, but it works for them

The place i work at has something ridiculously thick in the bulk oil tank. i forget what it is, but its half way to being gear lube as far as im concerned, but hes been doing that for something to the tune of 20 years with supposedly no problems.

Persoanlly im a fan of whatever the manufacturer calls for in service intervals. Even though i err to the side of shorter than called for changes (car recomends 5k)
 






I've used royal purple before, if you run a full synthetic with a quality filter you can get 10-12k miles per oil change. While you pay more up front $18.00 for cheap oil change and $38.00 for royal purple, you change cheap stuff 3-4 times and synthetic once, so $54-72 for cheap stuff. As long as you get a non-paper element oil filter you should be good. Filters like K&N and mobil 1 use a cotton fiber based element which could even last you multiple changes, but they are cheap so best to change each time for sense of mind.
 






Castrol GTX Sythetic 5w30 in everything i run, weather it be my 350HP Nova or my 5.0L Eddie Bauer Explorer. Its what my dad always used so its what i use now. Either way i try to change it at least every 3000-4000 miles, Altho i have yet to hit that in any one vehicle.
 






I do A LOT of highway driving and I normally use motorcraft 5W30 and a motorcraft filter and change them at 4k. I have always done this in the fords I've owned, Except my 01 Turbo Diesel and I would use rotella T and a motorcraft filter and change at about 15k miles when I had it, mostly waited longer just because the cost of a single oil change was so extreme.

I feel like good, clean oil is more important in an engine than any super expensive name brand. All motorcraft oil is Synthetic nowadays anyway.
 






I do A LOT of highway driving and I normally use motorcraft 5W30 and a motorcraft filter and change them at 4k. I have always done this in the fords I've owned, Except my 01 Turbo Diesel and I would use rotella T and a motorcraft filter and change at about 15k miles when I had it, mostly waited longer just because the cost of a single oil change was so extreme.

I feel like good, clean oil is more important in an engine than any super expensive name brand. All motorcraft oil is Synthetic nowadays anyway.

No it is not... Ford even says so on the BIG poster they have right in their service department talking about the advantages of going to a full-synthetic oil.

About changing oil TOO often -- that can be as harmful as leaving it too long. Oil additives are designed to work for a certain length of time under certain load conditions, and chaning to fast means they never get a chance to start working.

Lots of good info here:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

Here is part of an article from that site that may prove informative:
Constituting 80-90% of the finished motor oil, the base oil(s) play a very important role. The structure and stability of the base oils dictate the flow characteristics of the oil and the temperature range in which it can operate, as well as many other vital properties such as volatility, lubricity, and cleanliness. The two major categories of base oils are Mineral Oils and Synthetics.

Mineral oils begin with crude oil, a mixture of literally hundreds of different molecules derived from the decomposition of prehistoric plant and animal life. The lighter more volatile components of crude oil are stripped away to make gasoline and other fuels, and the heaviest components are used in asphalt and tar. It’s the middle cuts that have the right thickness or viscosity for lubricants, but first they must be cleaned up; undesirable components such as waxes, unsaturated hydrocarbons, and nitrogen and sulfur compounds must be removed. Modern processing techniques do a pretty good job of removing these undesirable components, good enough for well over 90% of the world’s lubricant applications, but they cannot remove all of the bad actors. And it’s these residual “weak links” that limit the capabilities of mineral oils, usually by triggering breakdown reactions at high temperatures or freezing up when cold. These inherent weaknesses limit the temperature range in which mineral oils can be used and shorten the useful life of the finished lubricant.

Mineral oils are further subdivided into three subgroups (Group I, Group II, Group III) that differ by the degree of processing they undergo. Higher groups have been subjected to hydrotreating or cracking to open aromatic (ringed) molecules, eliminate unstable double bonds, and remove other undesirables. This extra treating yields water-white clear liquid with higher VIs, enhanced oxidative stability, and lower volatility.

Group IIIs are a somewhat controversial class as they are derived from crude oil like Groups I & II, but their molecules have been so changed by severe processing that they are marketed as Synthetics. Most people now accept Group IIIs as synthetic, but the discussion remains heated among purists, and I’m going to duck by not taking a side here.

Synthetic base oils are manufactured by man from relatively pure and simple chemical building blocks, which are then reacted together or synthesized into new, larger molecules. The resulting synthetic basestock consists only of the preselected molecules and has no undesirable weak links that inhibit performance. This ability to preselect or design specific ideal molecules tailored for a given job, and then create those molecules and only those molecules, opens a whole new world for making superior basestocks for lubricants. In fact, the entire formulation approach is different: instead of trying to clean up a naturally occurring chemical soup to acceptable levels with a constant eye on cost, the synthetic chemist is able to focus on optimum performance in a specific application with the knowledge that he can build the necessary molecules to achieve it. And since full synthetic oils are generally a company’s premier offering, their best foot forward so to speak, the additives are often better and in higher doses as performance trumps cost.

In general, synthetic base oils offer higher oxidative and thermal stability, lower pour points, lower volatility, higher VI, higher flash points, higher lubricity, better fuel economy, and better engine cleanliness. The amount and balance of these improvements vary by synthetic type, and can be quite significant for the engine and user.

There are many types of synthetic base oils, the most common being Polyalphaolefins (PAOs), Esters, Alkylated Naphthenes (ANs), and more recently Group IIIs. These different types of synthetic base oils are often blended together (or even with mineral oils), to give the balance of properties desired. All offer improved performance, but at a higher price, which brings up the question of value - how much performance to you need, and how much should you pay for it?

For the average car owner, driving conditions are mild enough for conventional mineral oils to work satisfactorily, provided they are changed relatively frequently (3,000-5,000 miles). For those users with high performance engines, severe climates, hard driving, or utilizing long drain intervals, synthetics can offer good value and may even be required. And then there are those who so love their cars that nothing but the very best will do for their baby.
So, as you can see, modern motor oils are very simple mixtures of very complex ingredients.

Choosing the right components of the right chemistry in the right dosages is a real balancing act, as each of the components have their own pluses and minuses and can interact or compete with each other. Don’t try this at home - leave it to companies you trust who have the technology, R&D, and resources to achieve the necessary balance so critical to performance.

When we're comparing the various sorts of "synthetic" oil, it is important to understand which "type" of synthetic you are talking about. Many carrying the name "synthetic" are only type III dino oils -- yes, they have been cracked and altered, but no, they are not "pure" or "true" manufactured long-chain synthetic molecules.

Amsoil IS a true manufactured long-chain molecule oil, hence its long change interval capabilities.
 






^good stuff. I've never actually taken the time to understand the differences between dino (mineral) and synthetic, or the difference between real synth and the wannabe synth.

Makes me more even more satisfied in making the decision to use Amsoil Signature Series in both my Explorer and my wife's Outback. Money well spent, IMHO.
 






^good stuff. I've never actually taken the time to understand the differences between dino (mineral) and synthetic, or the difference between real synth and the wannabe synth.

Makes me more even more satisfied in making the decision to use Amsoil Signature Series in both my Explorer and my wife's Outback. Money well spent, IMHO.

I know that a lot of guys are put off by the price -- and the silly direct marketing method of selling Amsoil, but that is the way they've always done it. I think that they prefer to not go mainstream for some reason, but it is not for lack of exposure, or for lack of sales. They're good in both areas. They are sponsoring a bunch of high-end motorsports, and their oil is run in a whole lot of crankcases, even when some other sticker is on the car. I don't like their marketing scheme or price myself, but I put up with it for the product -- which is top notch.

Costs are high for any "true" synthetic oil because they don't get to just put in a bunch of additives. They have to start with a totally created product and build from that. Prices are also high because of the way they pay dealers -- too many hands in the pot with their marketing scheme, but I'm on my way to becoming a dealer, so perhaps I'll think otherwise once the money starts rolling in my direction.

DO check out their buy in. For $10 every 6 months, you can buy into a preferred customer status, which gets you dealer cost. Worth it if you are going to place an order for $100 or so in that 6 months.
 






DO check out their buy in. For $10 every 6 months, you can buy into a preferred customer status, which gets you dealer cost. Worth it if you are going to place an order for $100 or so in that 6 months.

My preferred status expires today actually. I'll renew it again when I need to place another order. I actually loaded up a few months ago when Amsoil announced a price increase related to the change in the US Dollar vs the Canadian. They gave me the opportunity to lock in the old pricing by a certain date so I scored all my oil and the filter for my next 1 year change (slated for mid-May). I also got my wife's oil/filter and a few other things.

Yeah, preferred pricing is the way to go. My "sponsor" is a guy on the other side of the country that I've never met, but have got some pretty good advice over the years by phone and email.

I don't care for the Amsoil method either, but I do like their products. Amsoil does sell some of their stuff in a huge local chain up here (Canadian Tire). I can get their ATF, their base 5w/30 and they did have the Signature Series 0w30 (under the old name, they don't seem to have it anymore). They've also got a few of their products for ATVs, boats etc. Pricing is pretty much at "Amsoil suggested retail" so I do get a better deal by using my membership.
 






synthetic blend 5w30 changed every 5000km from castrol oil change.
 






Anything Valvoline (especially MaxLife...great oil)...Motorcraft, Amsoil (the BEST, period).

I just started getting into my xploder. But I always use synthetic. Normally Valvoline. Both cars are higher miles so I use maxlife. I keep the weights low usually about 5/30. Amsoil, Royal Purple, Valvoline are all great in my opinion and that of others.

the most recent change called for Motorcraft 5/20 Synthetic. Lets see how it goes with a mobil 1 extended life filter. I have to undo the previous owners done's. Wish me luck.
 






My preferred status expires today actually. ...

Ditto, and also today is a deadline for buying some clearance items.

FYI, if anyone really likes Amsoil or high end synthetics, or long term vehicle maintenance, try a bypass oil filter system from Amsoil.

The best engine life protection comes from the cleanest incoming air, plus keeping the oil as clean as possible with filtering. Many people rely on bypass oil filtering systems, big rigs all use them to achieve 500,000 miles and more between rebuilds.

A bypass oil filter is special in that it takes about 10% of the oil and cleans it about 5-10 times better(finer) than a normal oil filter. The system requires at least one normal and one bypass filter. Most bypass filtering kits cost hundreds of dollars. Amsoil has about the least expensive entry level kit, around $150 at dealer costs. The more advanced kits(more filters, lines) cost closer to $250.

Here's the savings that I learned in the parts section. The kits all come with countless parts, hoses etc. None of them come with the filters, and the bypass filters are over $30 each. They will last 25k or more like the normal full flow filters. You can buy the bypass filter adapter separately, and create your own system by buying just the parts you need.

The basic bypass adapter is not much over $25, it's a lot like a trans filter adapter. You can mount that as you like, then plumb it with normal oil hose and create an oil return. The special adapter which takes both filter types is more, closer to $60 with brackets. I have them but have not yet done the returns for my trucks. That's a bargain, I would recommend the bypass filter system for any keeper vehicle.
 






I just dumped 5 quarts of Valvoline MaxLife down Snowball's throat tonight, along with a Motorcraft filter- I've always run that combo (or Castrol GTX and an FL1A size upgrade on my V6 SHO engines) and haven't had a serious problem with anything yet...
 



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