What should engine compression be

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lol aint we all ahhh man insurance and gas prices... really got me there... ahhh man st least we never have the cash to get into no big trouble, wspecially at my age no matter how much we want to cant afford the stuff!

want to see it all redone though, keep us posted on that!

Sure will man this is my first vehicle It had been sitting for 15 years when I bought it side lined with a bad power steering gear box the seal had blown out leaking power steering fluid everywhere wouldn't even hold steering fluid just ran out all over the place and yes on the gas prices it is complete madness

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Sure will man this is my first vehicle It had been sitting for 15 years when I bought it side lined with a bad power steering gear box the seal had blown out leaking power steering fluid everywhere wouldn't even hold steering fluid just ran out all over the place and yes on the gas prices it is complete madness

yep! sounds familiar aint wven gotten to the first vehicle point its still in the im not even of the driving age but still working on it stage

 

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yep! sounds familiar aint wven gotten to the first vehicle point its still in the im not even of the driving age but still working on it stage

Here's the video

 

[Josh P]

Fluctuating vacuum indicates misfire, a cylinder didn't do a complete burn so it slowed down the crank, which changes RPM.

 

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Fluctuating vacuum indicates misfire, a cylinder didn't do a complete burn so it slowed down the crank, which changes RPM.

Think it's ignition related or compression I think 410 was right about how it should still fire not the greatest compression but its not bad especially for 342k miles I'll do some checking with a spark tester and see what I get if it ain't spark something is wrong with the internals of the engine

 

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Fluctuating vacuum indicates misfire, a cylinder didn't do a complete burn so it slowed down the crank, which changes RPM.

Would you happen to know what voltage I should get to the coil pack connector with key on?

 

[410Fortune]

the red w green wire should have 12V+ battery power with the key in ON or RUN positions

 

[Cheddar_Dan]

Not compression but run/rich 2 cents ICYI.
Last fall my EX would run rough for just about TWO MINUTES or so when "cold"; drivable but rough and wrong BUT ONLY for about two minutes!! Turns out there was excessive crud in one or (?) two coil "holes". ..crud rotted a plug wire at the coil connection, too. Coil and plugwire (or two) replaced. Soon after I needed to replace one 02 sensor. No idea if related.
All ok for 4-5 months then recently engine started running rich and throwing assorted codes; MPG dropped into the high 10's. Long story/short. I replaced MAF sensor and received *instant* relief from running rich but still had a code or two. I then installed new DPFE and DPFE solenoid (make sure the solenoid connector is holding both wires in place as it should. --this took care of CEL illumination. Now, codes not strong enough to illuminate CEL but readable codes exist if I go looking for them. MPG for overall driving (city and interstate) for last two fill-ups = 16.95
During above process I also cleaned cold air valve, removed/reinstalled EGR valve (looking for carbon/crud.

 

[RADIOACTIVE_TOOL_SHED___]

the red w green wire should have 12V+ battery power with the key in ON or RUN positions

Just checking it's it's fine, only thing I think I can do now is just rebuild the engine I've tested everything I know I have spark and fuel mabey the whole within 75% thing on compression testes from ford wer for they didn't have to replace engines under warranty

 

[410Fortune]

Within 75%? That has never been a thing it’s all cylinders within 10-15% of each other

You need to consider a leak down test

 

[Cheddar_Dan]

any chance someone installed plug wires incorrectly creating a firing order problem?

 

[RADIOACTIVE_TOOL_SHED___]

Within 75%? That has never been a thing it’s all cylinders within 10-15% of each other

You need to consider a leak down test

Alot of people say that's what ford states compression should be within I believe the 10 percent rule is more accurate however, I will be doing a leak down test hopefully tomorrow

 

[donalds]

Here's the video

Low vac imo should be 21 or closer to it

 

[RADIOACTIVE_TOOL_SHED___]

any chance someone installed plug wires incorrectly creating a firing order problem?

I've checked the firing order countless times

 

[RADIOACTIVE_TOOL_SHED___]

I've checked the firing order countless times

Yall think I should go with a remanufactured engine or rebuilt ? I'm looking for the next engine to last atleast 250k miles

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Yall think I should go with a remanufactured engine or rebuilt ? I'm looking for the next engine to last atleast 250k miles

remanned imo. that being said the best is one ya rebuild with ya own 2 hands! also, not sure if covid time is the best time to buy engine since companies focus mroe on keepign stuff in stock than using quality parts i notice sometimes nowadays

 

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remanned imo. that being said the best is one ya rebuild with ya own 2 hands! also, not sure if covid time is the best time to buy engine since companies focus mroe on keepign stuff in stock than using quality parts i notice sometimes nowadays

I'm gonna go with a 4.0 from power train products it's gotta 7 year 100k mile warranty they will even pay labor for it to be changed if it fails, wish I had a shop or something I'd do it myself

 

[donalds]

power train products
Good stuff

 

[efBrianM]

Have you changed your EGR valve?

I had a problem with my '95 OHV having a rough idle. I went to change the EGR valve and noticed that the vacuum canister that sets on top of the valve itself was rusted through (made of thin metal). I went ahead and tore the sheet metal canister off so I could get better access to the nuts.
I couldn't get any of the nuts loose, so I plugged the vac line and drove with a rough idle. No CEL!!
Then I got to thinking that there could be exhaust gases going thru the valve and up into the intake plenum and messing with the fuel mixture.
I epoxied the tube shut - instant fix on the rough idle! I get a CEL now, but the idle is fine!
Someday I'll replace the EGR valve but have bigger fish to fry right now. Just thought I'd pass along my story.

 

[RADIOACTIVE_TOOL_SHED___]

Have you changed your EGR valve?

I had a problem with my '95 OHV having a rough idle. I went to change the EGR valve and noticed that the vacuum canister that sets on top of the valve itself was rusted through (made of thin metal). I went ahead and tore the sheet metal canister off so I could get better access to the nuts.
I couldn't get any of the nuts loose, so I plugged the vac line and drove with a rough idle. No CEL!!
Then I got to thinking that there could be exhaust gases going thru the valve and up into the intake plenum and messing with the fuel mixture.
I epoxied the tube shut - instant fix on the rough idle! I get a CEL now, but the idle is fine!
Someday I'll replace the EGR valve but have bigger fish to fry right now. Just thought I'd pass along my story.

No EGR valve on the 93 Federal emissions trucks, appreciate the insight tho