Where is the HVAC resistor??? | Ford Explorer Forums

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Where is the HVAC resistor???

Purplehaze

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Joined
September 15, 2012
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City, State
Gallipolis, Ohio
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Explorer XLS 4.0 OHV
Hello friends,
I am finishing up my 1999 XLS project, and I bought an HVAC resistor to fix the blower motor issue (only works on high). My problem is, I cannot find where it is located, in order to change it.
All help is very much appreciated. Thank you.

Also I am looking for wheels for this baby, if anyone has some for sale hit me up please! Thanks.

Purplehaze
 



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it's on the passenger side of the firewall in the engine compartment. it is at about 5 o'clock relative to the blower motor.
 












Gotta do this myself haha let me know how easy it was... got the resistor, just need time to fiddle... haha. I heard it's bottom right of the blower motor anyway, there's also a resistor on the blower assembly in the console if yours is equipped with one me thinks.
 






Gotta do this myself haha let me know how easy it was... got the resistor, just need time to fiddle... haha. I heard it's bottom right of the blower motor anyway, there's also a resistor on the blower assembly in the console if yours is equipped with one me thinks.

changing the resistor is easy. unplug the electrical connector and 2 screws. getting to it is the biggest problem. the main thing in your way is the cruise control. the windshield washer reservoir may also be in your way.
 






For direct access pull the passenger wheel, splash guard and plastic liner. Very easy access to many things like spark plugs, vacuum reservoir, heater valve, and resistor.
 






Blower resister

You may want to pop in a new blower motor at the same time. From what I have read as the motors age and the bearings get old they may overheat the resistors. I just put a tyc blower motor in my sport trac for about $40. I replaced the resistor at the same time as a preventative measure. There was a bit of corrosion in the connector so I squirted some connector cleaner in it. The blower motor would only run after you tapped on the housing in the engine compartment.
 






The blower motor would only run after you tapped on the housing in the engine compartment.
That's the sign for any DC motor that the brushes are worn down to the point that they are barely making contact with the collector. Shocks will sometimes help them move the extra 1/64th inch needed, but after a while even that is not helping, the gap becomes too wide.
 






That is why I love these forums!

People sharing their knowledge. "That's the sign for any DC motor that the brushes are worn down to the point that they are barely making contact with the collector. Shocks will sometimes help them move the extra 1/64th inch needed, but after a while even that is not helping, the gap becomes too wide." I learned that tapping the motor isolates the problem to the motor not the resistor from these forums.
 






That's the sign for any DC motor that the brushes are worn down to the point that they are barely making contact with the collector. Shocks will sometimes help them move the extra 1/64th inch needed, but after a while even that is not helping, the gap becomes too wide.

Yup. Kept mine running for maybe a week by tapping the housing with a crowbar last winter... It worked but eventually it just wore out and would gradually fade to nothing. Replaced it. Even while it was dying out I was still able to select different fan speeds and narrow it down to not being the resistor (no burnt smell either). My windows and lights were working fine so I knew it was the blower motor and note a fuse issue.. Tapping it confirmed the suspicion.

3 things to know when your blower motor stops working properly.

Resistor - no fan speed selection, potential burnt plastic/metal smell
Blower motor - motor dies out, no air movement, tap housing it may kick over
Fuse - multiple electronics will fail , dome light +windows+no air movement from blower motor

Might help someone else narrow down an issue later on.

(Sorry was partially replying to Bretton65 as well).
 






changing the resistor is easy. unplug the electrical connector and 2 screws. getting to it is the biggest problem. the main thing in your way is the cruise control. the windshield washer reservoir may also be in your way.

thanks Koda2000, I took a look while swapping my AIC valve and it looks like the cruise control servo has to go. I'll attempt it another day. :thumbsup:
 






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