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Yet another..

Lord I hope not.
If replacing the sensor doesn't cure the issue, next step is to use the multi meter to verify wiring.
That's completely outta my realm
 



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So the truck will start with a bad crank sensor?
Unplug the sensor at the crank, truck won't start. Also won't have spark.
 






Ok but right now the truck will crank so doesn't that rule out a bad crank sensor?
 






Ok but right now the truck will crank so doesn't that rule out a bad crank sensor?
You checked voltage and it's right where it should be.
 






You checked voltage and it's right where it should be.
Yes which means the connector in the wiring harness has voltage not sensor itself to check that I disconnected the sensor from the connector and tested the connector with the key on engine off.

To check the sensor the Haynes manual says to connect a voltmeter to the sensor and crank the engine with the inertia switch disconnected and I should see pulsing voltage.

To do this I back probed the sensor connector with it connected to the CKP and held the negative lead onto the frame. I seen no pulsing voltage.
 






The sensor generates the voltage when the engine is spinning.
 






There should be continuity in the sensor itself correct?

So if I were to take my voltmeter and switch it to ohms there should be no resistance right?
 






Sometimes a digital meter doesn't react well with a pulse signal, the old analog meters are needed. If the camshaft sensor is not giving a pulse with you test it, that's a problem
 






Sometimes a digital meter doesn't react well with a pulse signal, the old analog meters are needed. If the camshaft sensor is not giving a pulse with you test it, that's a problem
When I tested the Camshaft sync the voltage pulsed and hit 5 volts when it passed tdc on the 1 cylinder.
I did this several times to make sure I was getting a correct reading.
 






To recap, the camshaft and crankshaft sensors both generate voltage when probed. The ICM was replaced. Is the ECM original? If so open it up, you might find 3 or so leaking capacitors.
 






The sensor generates the voltage when the engine is spinning.
So even if I have it disconnected when I crank the engine it should pulse even though it has no power to it?
 






To recap, the camshaft and crankshaft sensors both generate voltage when probed. The ICM was replaced. Is the ECM original? If so open it up, you might find 3 or so leaking capacitors.
Correct. However when I test the CKP it doesn't pulse. But that could be my error in my method.
 






I don't want to mix up the test procedures for the two sensors. We should rule each one out individually, or it will look like I'm giving bad advice
 






Ok let's start with the crankshaft sensor....

I tested it following these instructions

1689898861864507848275402973467.jpg
 






What confuses me is when it says to test the sensor itself should reconnect and back the connector or will the sensor itself generate AC voltage by itself as the engine is cranked?
 






What confuses me is when it says to test the sensor itself should reconnect and back the connector or will the sensor itself generate AC voltage by itself as the engine is cranked?
#4 in the book, this is the pulsing ac voltage, the sensor will generate this with the connector off and you probing the contacts on the sensor while the engine is being cranked
 






#4 in the book, this is the pulsing ac voltage, the sensor will generate this with the connector off and you probing the contacts on the sensor while the engine is being cranked
Thank you!!! Ok, I'm going to do this right now...let yall know how it goes.
 






Visually check the tone ring, the bracket for the crank sensor, etc that the tone ring is clean of dirt, grease, oil buildup and the bracket isn't bent out of position.
 






UPDATE...the CKP works perfect...so onto the sync.
 



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UPDATE...the CKP works perfect...so onto the sync.
Post a picture of the troubleshooting procedure page from the book you are using
 






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