Dana 44 ttb in Explorer?

bigbzc · March 9, 2010

Has anybody put a Dana44 from a full size Bronco in an Explorer? If so, what all was involved?

little x · March 9, 2010

I didn't know they made a Dana 44 IFS!

or are you talking about the ttb?

Clutch1819 · March 9, 2010

Broncos and F150s have ttb dana 44's. i was wondering the same.

86caprirs · March 9, 2010

may be easier to swap the EX body on a Bronco/F-150 chassis. Then you get a V8 swap with a stronger drivetrain.

little x · March 9, 2010

Clutch1819 said:
Broncos and F150s have ttb dana 44's. i was wondering the same.

I thought the F-150's had a dana 50 ttb, but I'm not going to pull out the axle manual to look it up.

valhalla · March 10, 2010

little x said:
I thought the F-150's had a dana 50 ttb, but I'm not going to pull out the axle manual to look it up.

The F250 had the Dana 50, the F150 had the Dana 44.

rhauf · March 10, 2010

i've been considering retrofitting a dana44 TTB into my X as well. either that or a 3 link'd dana60. somebody give me free money so i can do this!

Stic-o · March 10, 2010

You'll have to check over on Dezertrangers or something. The Pre-runner guys have been doing this mod on Rangers and Explorers for decades

cmhaah06 · March 10, 2010

Autofab has a real nice dana44 upgrade for the ranger. It should also fit an ex. You should check it out.

bigbzc · March 10, 2010

ok, a TTB is an IFS (independent front suspenssion) Last time I looked. Just different terminology. The point is, how can it be done not who.

joker1457 · March 10, 2010

bigbzc said:
ok, a TTB is an IFS (independent front suspenssion) Last time I looked. Just different terminology. The point is, how can it be done not who.

TTB is twin traction beam no CV AXLES to bind up, IFS Independant front suspension, CV axles.

IFS you have to worry about cv angles ttb IMO is a much better set up but Solid axle is a far better way to go.

Turdle · March 10, 2010

OK
How is a TTB not a IFS? Seems to me with TTB one wheel's travel is independent from the other-which is IFS.

bigbzc · March 10, 2010

As a Master Tech, I know what they stand for. And in both set-ups, both sides of the suspenssion are independent of each other, therefore.... I think you get it.

The point of this tread is totally lost. If you cannot tell me what is required to perform this mod, please keep it to your selves. I know it will take alot of welding and modification and thats just fine, I'm hoping someone has done this and can give some tips other than the terminology that Ford used for their suspenssion

Happy Jack · March 10, 2010

Yup! The TTB is the best IFS. The SLA has the CV axles and does not work as well off road.

The 44 beems are different lenth that the 28 or 35 beems. Some folks cut the beems and axles down or at least I have seen some threads where that has been done.

Lots of folks do the Early Bronco 44. But they only had disc brakes in 76 and 77 and had smaller axles and u-joints than the 35 TTB.

The trouble with the 35 TTB I have found is the wheel bearings are too close together and have problems. The lock out are expensive and weeker. And the squeeze bolt for the alignment cams are often over powered. Of course that all depends on how big a tire you have. The larger the tire the more leverage on the parts I have listed.

If you are running big enough tires and enough power to think you need the larger 44 ring and pinion then you can give the 44 ttb a shot. For me I just went with the 44 outers on the 35 TTB. The solved the lock out and wheel bearing concerns. And I am going to drive the point of the alignement cam and down into the knuckle to install a set screw for the alignment.

This is my write up on it and it gives you the larger 1/2 brakes as well: http://www.mappyjack.com/Dana44.htm

Elessar65 · March 10, 2010

Like Stic-o said, its a common swap for the desert crowd. Autofab has a kit maybe? They have done it at least. I know I have seen a D44 TTB Ranger on their site. I would check that out, and maybe give them a call about it

bigbzc · March 10, 2010

I'm only running 35's. what happened was I welded my front gears (worked well for a little bit) Then put Jeep locking hubs on. I really pushed it hard to try to climb a big rock to no success because one of rear tires wasn't spining (Ijust rebuilt the damn rear too!) So I kinda let it have it 1 last time and broke the axle, forced the carrier bearing to break the bearing cap, AND broke the hub the carrier bearing is pressed on to. Oh yeah, I also cracked the case. ;>

FROADER · March 10, 2010

As soon as I saw the thread name I knew there would be lameness going on. I changed the title so nobody can ***** about whether ttb is ifs or not, which as has been pointed out, it is...

The fore and aft bends are not the same, so the crossmember or beam has to be modified for that, and the beams are different lengths, so that has to be taken care of too.

Elessar65 · March 10, 2010

probably be better just to put a solid axle under it if its mostly for offroad use, and since you welded the spiders i'm guessing it is. you have some fab work to do either way, and the solid axle will flex better and be more durable than a ttb. just my $.02
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bigbzc · March 10, 2010

Thanks Froader. I almost had you just delete it I was gettin so ticked lol.

I've thought about going solid for years now, just happen to have the frontend of a Bronc available. Looks like for now I'll just get another D35 and put a locker in it sence my gearbox has started leaking because of it. Too bad I can't put a stonger chunk in it's place without changing the whole suspenssion. Maybe one day I'll come across a solid axle for a five-finger-discount. Have any links to a how to?

Dannyboy · March 10, 2010

http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/showthread.php/36319-D44-TTB-Pivot-Spacing?highlight=pivot spacing

it can be done! Lots of TTB haters out there, I can honestly say I like it.

Oh, and my 2 cents is that the autofab kit is worth every penny to do it right.

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