8.8 Axle Bearing Play? | Ford Explorer Forums

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8.8 Axle Bearing Play?

MountaineerGreen

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2012 F150 4x4
Well, I was getting an alignment the other day, failed to tell the alignment tech that I had an Aussie locker. He was very observant and noticed that there was a clicking coming from the rear end. :thumbsup: He raised the rear axle and both of the tires have play or slack up and down, side to side. Not in and out, up and down. :thumbdwn:

So, I need a favor from someone with a stock rear axle and a jack handy. Would you raise the weight off the tires and see if you have any slack?
 



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well mine is not stock but i dont believe i have any play in mine. i just had to change a tire yesterday and didnt notice it. but i will check again for you as soon as it stops raining... ill also try to check a friend of mines who has a stock explorer.
 






In and out is normal, up and down isn't.
 












I didn't think up and down is normal.

When I regeared about 7-8k ago, I put new outer bearings and seals along with all new bearings everywhere else. I have not towed a whole lot since the regear, but some. I emailed the place I got the bearings from, he said there was no way I got the wrong spec bearings, suggested I check axle shafts. :(

The trouble is, its obviously my DD. I can't tear it down, find out whats wrong, then wait 3 days on parts.

I did get water in my rear diff a few weeks back, but only drove a little before I changed the gear oil, and there wasn't too much water in it. I drained all that I could, jacking up each side of the axle to drain all the oil/water out.
 






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As your reading this I'm pulling up and pushing down, no movement. As Rick said you do have in and out. This is normal and need this to get the c-clips off these 8.8
Now to be honest with you I heard the faintest noise up and down but you could not see any movement. And I did put in new bearings.
 






This is an up and down I can feel. I don't know how to proceed from here.

Order a set of bearings, tear it down, mic the axle shafts to see if they are up to spec. Whether or not they are, replace the bearings. If the shafts are bad, order new ones, then replace them. ????

What stinks is this will require a tear down of the locker and lots of gear oil. :( Twice as much if the axle shafts are bad.

Anybody have any other suggestions?
 






I'm about %98 sure it's your bearings. If there real bad a lot of times you can even hear a roaring type noise in the back just like my 97 X has that I might just do what you may do. Replace those bearings. I don't know, but your bearing may be pressed on the axle then in the housing shaft.
 






I just replaced these bearings less than 10k ago- they are pressed in the axle tube, require a puller to remove.

The guy I bought them from said there is no way I got bad bearings, so what could have caused this? They are/were brand new USA bearings.
 






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You really should at least remove the tires, calipers and rotors. You can then hold hold the axle shafts via the studs and move it up and down.
 






Unfortunately for you, it is time to pull your axleshafts. Up and down movement is most likely bearings. Regardless of what the guy you bought them from said, I'd put money on bad bearings....
 






Ditto... in and out is OK, up and down is bad. Pulling the shaft isn't a big job even to troubleshoot. If you catch the gear oil in a clean container and pass it through a coffee filter, I wouldn't hesitate to re-use it. Drain it, set the container aside so no more gunk falls into it, and remove one (or both) axle shafts to assess the damage.

Order a set of bearings ahead of time. You know you need them at the very least. Stick with the good ones: INA, SKF, Timken, et. al. Don't usee the Tiawanese garbage. They won't last.

If the shafts are worn, order the shafts. Re-assemble the old parts and use the 'old' gear oil in the mean time. It's not the end of the world.

Just another thought: Could it be that the bearings are fine, but the differential carrier bearings are shot? If the carrier was moving around, the gears would be getting chewed-up pretty quickly, and I would think there would be other tell-tale signs, but it's a possibility....

Also, exactly how much movement are we talking about here? A few thousandths of an inch I might not worry about. 1/8" I'd be alarmed!

-Joe
 












Mine don't wiggle either--

Could the water-and driving have combined to wash the bearings out-causing wear?

Absolutely!
 






That'll teach you to drive in mud/water -- stick to the rocks ;)
 






Ditto... in and out is OK, up and down is bad. Pulling the shaft isn't a big job even to troubleshoot. If you catch the gear oil in a clean container and pass it through a coffee filter, I wouldn't hesitate to re-use it. Drain it, set the container aside so no more gunk falls into it, and remove one (or both) axle shafts to assess the damage.

Order a set of bearings ahead of time. You know you need them at the very least. Stick with the good ones: INA, SKF, Timken, et. al. Don't usee the Tiawanese garbage. They won't last.

If the shafts are worn, order the shafts. Re-assemble the old parts and use the 'old' gear oil in the mean time. It's not the end of the world.

Just another thought: Could it be that the bearings are fine, but the differential carrier bearings are shot? If the carrier was moving around, the gears would be getting chewed-up pretty quickly, and I would think there would be other tell-tale signs, but it's a possibility....

Also, exactly how much movement are we talking about here? A few thousandths of an inch I might not worry about. 1/8" I'd be alarmed!

-Joe

I was thinking of ordering a set of FMS bearings, they come with seals for ~$25 for a set.

I still need to remove the wheel and see exactly how much play is there, but I'd venture to guess its around an 1/8th.

The carrier bearings are new, I replaced them the same time as the outers. I have an Aussie locker in place of the spider gears. It *feels* like the slack is in the outer bearings because of the way it moves, its up and down, not a wiggle. I don't have any symptoms with my rear axle at the moment.

I will order bearings tonight, and try to locate a puller.

Its going to be a pain to disassemble the Aussie under the truck. :(
 






Well, figured it out, sort of. I pulled one axle shaft, replaced the seal and bearing. The old bearing looked fine as did the seal. I slipped the new bearing over the axle shaft, there was a tiny bit of play. That can only mean my axle shafts are worn. But, with the wheel removed, the axle shaft moved up and down- I could feel it, but wasn't visible. I'd say it'd be a few thousandths at most. I didn't replace the other side bearing because there is nothing wrong with them. I can return the bearing and seal for credit on my account at NAPA.

Now I have to decide weather or not to drop the $$ and buy new axle shafts.

The good news is the Aussie Locker is looking good, no wear showing at all.

I thought I was going to be able to pull the passenger side axle shaft and half of the locker and then put it all back together. Well, didn't work out that way. I got the passenger side half out, did my thing, then slipped the locker back together. When I went to put the drivers side brake caliper back on, the axle shaft slid out. :banghead: Apparently the C clip slid off the axle shaft and fell into the tub of oil without me noticing. So, being out of time, I left it sit. I will tear down the locker today, grease the C clips and put it all back together. The pain is pulling the first C Clip and all the little pins and springs.
 






Sorry to hear about the worries Evan. I don't know how the Aussie diff. is different froma LS for doing axles.

It is normal for the rear axles to have some play, in all directions. There is often a lot of side/side play due to diff. clearances. I installed extra clutches in my 93, and had no side/side play to start with.

The up/down play should be less than say 0.050" or so, you have seen what it is now, with new bearings. The axle shaft location where the bearings ride is what you need to worry about. If that is nice and smooth, not discolored, you are good, put it back together.

That axle surface will wear fairly quickly when it starts to go, it will wear a valley in the axle surface. That's when you get the growl of bearings, because the bearing pins will also be wearing down.

Autozone has a bearing puller kit now. With a slide hammer, those bearings are now a breeze to pull. Without the special tool that is a hell of a task. Regards,
 



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Sorry to hear about the worries Evan. I don't know how the Aussie diff. is different froma LS for doing axles.

It is normal for the rear axles to have some play, in all directions. There is often a lot of side/side play due to diff. clearances. I installed extra clutches in my 93, and had no side/side play to start with.

The up/down play should be less than say 0.050" or so, you have seen what it is now, with new bearings. The axle shaft location where the bearings ride is what you need to worry about. If that is nice and smooth, not discolored, you are good, put it back together.

That axle surface will wear fairly quickly when it starts to go, it will wear a valley in the axle surface. That's when you get the growl of bearings, because the bearing pins will also be wearing down.

Autozone has a bearing puller kit now. With a slide hammer, those bearings are now a breeze to pull. Without the special tool that is a hell of a task. Regards,

Thanks for the info. I'd venture to guess that the play is within specs- otherwise the bearings would have to be pressed on, correct?

The axle shafts are smooth, no groves or discoloration at all.

I learned the hard way a few months ago about the puller. I was rebuilding my rear axle, I thought I'd just knock those races right out with a pipe ran though the whole housing. Wrong. I beat and banged on the bearings for hours, then finally realized it wasn't happening without the puller. I went and got the puller, had both sides out in 15 minutes. This time I found a friend with a homemade puller, it isn't a three jaw, but just a hook. It worked almost as well, but I'd say with original bearings there would be no way.

I am working on filling my diff now- It seems like that thing holds alot of fluid. I came in to look up the capacity specs.
 






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