Delta current e-fan controller owners chime in please

Hey guys. I just installed a flex a lite 180 e-fan on monday. I have searched and read a lot of Aldives posts (RIP). I really like the design and functionality of the Delta Controls VSC unit. But it seems that aldive had every controller he bought fail on him within a year or so, including the DC unit. Is that "just the way it is" with e-fan controllers? Again I really want to get the DC unit, but at $150 + shipping I'd like to know I can get atleast 2to 3 years out of it.

http://www.dccontrol.com/fancontrol.htm

So, Im looking for your experiences primarily with the DC unit, but any e-fan controller.
please tell me what controller you have, how long you have had it, and where you live , as I wonder if the excessive florida heat and constant A/C usage contributed to Aldives multiple failures.

Thanks everyone, looking forward to your experiences and recomendations on VSC e-fan controllers.


Adam.

bump

I run the DC controls unit and can't say enough good about it. Nothing but praise for the controller and Brian. Any specific questions just ask.

Thanks for responding. Yes I like everything about the DC unit. I'm just curious on reliability, as it seems several controllers seem to fail after only a year or two.

-How long have you had your DC controller installed.
-Where do you live/run your X?(climate)

I just know that the original controller that came with my cooling fan probably wont last long. I thought sure i was going to break it by just connecting each wire to it, the whole "innerds" were loose inside of the cheap and loose plastic housing.

Thanks!

I had one years ago, it died, I was told 'get lost'.

It took forever to get (on the order of MONTHS).

Personally, I'd go for the SPAL controller..

I've had mine about 2 yrs now. Haven't had any issues with heat at all. I live down west of Atlantic City, and I take it down south to WVa every summer with no problems. I had one issue(caused it myself I believe) and Brian took care of it immediately and only charged me for return shipping, nothing for the service. I have also used the painless wiring controller and while it is a nice unit, I don't think it's worth the money you pay for it and it doesn't hold a candle to the DC controller. My mounty never runs over 205 degrees on the hottest days sitting in traffic or running mountain trails down south.

Thanks for your input. I've continued searching, on other forums as well (mustang and jeep), and have quite a even mix of really good and then really bad reviews on the unit as well as customer service/support from Brian. Seems likes its a 50/50 chance of both getting a good unit and catching Brian on a "good" streak, all while delivery time is from weeks to months.

As much as I love the functionality and "theory of operation" behind the DC unit, based on my research so far of reliability and support, I think I will pursue a different controller.

Next on my list is the Spal controller, and then the flex a lite VSC controller. I seem to remember reading somewhere though that the flexa lite units initially had spastic control issues....?

More experiences, recommendations and thoughts are welcomed and appreciated!

Thanks!

Adam.

the spal PWM v-3 unit is a good controller. I ran it a while.

You just need to make sure the current requirements (amp draw) for the flex a lite fan don't exceed the current handling capabilities of the spal controller.

Based on my (ongoing) experience, it'll be a year before DCC actually ships it, so it should last at least 2 years from the date that you order one.

Ordered the SPAL 3 controller

Ok. I made my decision. I thank you all for your feedback.

I have ordered the SPAL FAN-PWM-V3 controller, got it on ebay for $128.50 including shipping. The official spal website wants $164.95 before shipping.

It seems to be a good solid unit. I will update when i recieve and install it, as well as how it continues to function....wich will most hopefully be perfectly

Thanks again everyone for your thoughts and advice.

Adam.

LED Status indicator?

I have recieved my SPAL 3 controller today. I will not be able to install until thursday or friday however.

The controller has an output for an in cabin LED status indicator to tell you what the fan is doing, and I would like to use the option. My question is, where and what kind of LED do i purchase? Is this something i can run down to Autozone or Radioshack and pick up?

Thanks, Adam.

Yes you can get any color LED you want at Radio shack. Just remember most LED's run on 3-5VDC so you will need a resistor inline to drop the voltage down from 12VDC. It should be about 500 ohms I think. They also have pre made LED's in a holder already set up for 12V in green and red. This type is probably the easiest install. Hook up the negative lead to the controllers status light output and the positive lead to a switched 12V source. Check on the fans current draw, spal doesn't recommend fans that draw over 30 amps. Good luck, any questions let me know.

albi1cnobi1 said:

Yes you can get any color LED you want at Radio shack. Just remember most LED's run on 3-5VDC so you will need a resistor inline to drop the voltage down from 12VDC. It should be about 500 ohms I think. They also have pre made LED's in a holder already set up for 12V in green and red. This type is probably the easiest install. Hook up the negative lead to the controllers status light output and the positive lead to a switched 12V source. Check on the fans current draw, spal doesn't recommend fans that draw over 30 amps. Good luck, any questions let me know.

Click to expand...

Ok, thanks so much for the info, i would not have known about LEDs being 3-5volts only. I will definately look for the pre-made LED in aholder. Thanks for the heads up on the amp draw. = did check this out already. The blackmagic 180 fan only draws 18 amps so the 30 amp spal controller will be ample.

I was planning on installing this thursday or friday evening, but the weather seems to disagree. I cant wait to get this installed. When I do I will update.

Thanks again.

Adam.

With that amp draw you're golden.You should be fine. The pre mounted(pre made) LED's wires are colored red and black so no problem there. Just check the package, it will say 12v. I say this because they have 120VAC ones too and they look similar. I'm down in South Jersey about 20 miles west of A.C. not looking forward to that weather either. Good luck let us know how you make out.

You should make sure you have very clean, good connections with your wires that go to the fan motor. I did kind of a sloppy job splicing the first time and the Spal controller seemed to think that there was an excessive current draw and it would shut itself down to protect its circuitry. After I tinned the wires with solder and used butt connectors with heat shrink tubing I no longer had that issue.

albi1cnobi1 said:

With that amp draw you're golden.You should be fine. The pre mounted(pre made) LED's wires are colored red and black so no problem there. Just check the package, it will say 12v. I say this because they have 120VAC ones too and they look similar. I'm down in South Jersey about 20 miles west of A.C. not looking forward to that weather either. Good luck let us know how you make out.

Click to expand...

Ronin8002 said:

You should make sure you have very clean, good connections with your wires that go to the fan motor. I did kind of a sloppy job splicing the first time and the Spal controller seemed to think that there was an excessive current draw and it would shut itself down to protect its circuitry. After I tinned the wires with solder and used butt connectors with heat shrink tubing I no longer had that issue.

Click to expand...

Stopped at Radio Shack on the way home. Picked up a Green 12vDC LED light. Good call on paying close attention to the 12V/120V, that drawer was quite a mixed mess. Had a hard time deciding between the Red or Green. Went with the green as I figure it'll match the dash better as well as be easier on the eyes at nite. But still not 100% sold on the green, they're cheap, may try the red for just for kicks at some point.

I will certainly make good connections, thanks for that.

Thanks so much for your help guys, love this forum. I will update in a few days when I get it installed.

Adam.

Installed controller today but....

Well I FINALLY got a chance to install the SPAL controller today. I took my time and went over my connections and wiring countless times. But I still have the same result.

When I start the truck, I get the green status LED to say that all is well. I programmed it so the LOW temp is set at 197 and hight at 205. Finished programming, shut truck off for a few minutes to let it cool down a bit.

Started it back up, still had green status indication. As temp gets to 197, the fan turns on for a second then turns off. The controller is now flashing error codes 2 AND 4 wich are as follows:

CODE 2: Fan Not Found Or Fan Speed Error
The FAN-PWM is not sensing a fan or the fan is not functioning properly. Verify
the connections and operation. A brushed DC motor MUST be connected to the
fan output or the unit will report an error code. Possible use with very low power
(<4A) fans and non SPAL products may also cause Fan Not Found Error code.
SPAL USA will not guarantee this product’s functionality with non SPAL fans as
too often specifications are unknown.

CODE 4: Module Over Current Error
Over current protection means that the output will SHUT DOWN if the measured
fan continuous run current increases above 30A for extended periods. If
running a fan that is approaching this amount of current draw (>25A), SPAL USA
recommends that the installation also include a status light so the operator will
be aware of the fan status.

So I checked my wireing more times than I can count. The Flex a lite 180 fan is only supposed to draw 18 amps. The only thing i cannot confirm is if it is a BRUSHED DC motor?? Does anyone know about this? I check the specs on the flexalite website, only thing i can confirm there is its a DC motor.

What really has me baffled is the 2 codes at the same time. If it was one or the other, it would seem to make a little more sense? Any ideas or help would be great as I left the truck this way at my dads house and will be driving my other car (that im trying to sell) until i figure this out. HELP!


Adam.

I sold my Spal controller and a chevy HHR e-fan I was using to another member (Xeek). It worked fine for me, but he is having almost the exact same problem that you are (not the over current error though)

I also used it on a black magic 150 prior to the chevy fan. no problems there either.

Apparently there is some diagnostic mode you can get into on the controller. Try calling their help line and they might be able to help you troubleshoot it.

I did read somewhere on the web about a guy that had issues with the controller working with his Black Magic fan and he sent the controller to them to get modifed. I guess they de-activated some of the overcurrent protection circuit so it would work without getting the error.

Ronin8002 said:

I sold my Spal controller and a chevy HHR e-fan I was using to another member (Xeek). It worked fine for me, but he is having almost the exact same problem that you are (not the over current error though)

I also used it on a black magic 150 prior to the chevy fan. no problems there either.

Apparently there is some diagnostic mode you can get into on the controller. Try calling their help line and they might be able to help you troubleshoot it.

I did read somewhere on the web about a guy that had issues with the controller working with his Black Magic fan and he sent the controller to them to get modifed. I guess they de-activated some of the overcurrent protection circuit so it would work without getting the error.

Click to expand...

Ok thanks for that. I just emailed SPAL about my issue and mentioned the guy getting his unit modified. Im hoping they will have some good news for me. Thanks for the quick responses.

By the way, you were correct about the greenwire with the red stripe being the temp sensor wire that I needed (checked with my meter). Thanks.

Adam.

i do not get code 4 on mine. but i do get code 1 and code 4 if the trucks off and i activate the ignition wire for the controller. only get code 2 when running

last email from spal:

There is nothing obviously wrong from what you are telling me. There is something in your vehicle that the controller doesn't like. I don't know what I can do to help. I'm not familiar with the HHR fan so I don't know its specifications and if its possible that it is drawing a lot of inrush current when starting. You know the system worked before in a different vehicle so there has to be something you are missing.

The only way to fix this problem is to remove the fan diagnostics. I will only recommend doing this as a last resort. Once disabled there is no protection for the controller and if the fan over currents or fails it will damage the controller.

Click to expand...

hes just blaming my truck pretty much. and i dont see the harm in disabling the diagnostics for the hhr fan as i know it doesnt go over 30amps. but i want to figure out a way without doing all that.
next task is get battery/alternator tested as the batter sat for 3 months, but started the truck right up