Delta Current Control Electric Fan Controller Install | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Delta Current Control Electric Fan Controller Install

hey al, quick question, i sent you a pm about this but anyways, do you know if that controller kicks the electric fan on 100% for just the a/c clutch?
 



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I "believe" that it come s on at 50%, but am not sure.

It is explained on their website ( http://www.dccontrol.com/index.htm ), or should I say WAS. The website seems to be nonexistant as of now.

Sorry I do not have a better answer.
 






I recall that it does turn on the fan at 50% with the blue lead, which is supposed to be for AC. I originally had that connected in mine, but with any AC operation(vent etc.) the fan ran too much. I disconnected it, and tapped into the AC clutch wire, for future use.

FYI, be very sure about your power source provided and it's protection. I used what was supposed to be a marine/exterior circuit breaker, and it tripped somehow with my first under hood cleaning. Then it would not reset, appeared to but did not. The result was discovering the next day with coolant overheating, no fan. I managed to discover it, tap on it for a few minutes and got it back on. I debated about a simple large fuse versus the circuit breaker.

I chose my path for packaging reasons, a simple fuse would be easier, cheaper, and easy to service. Regards,
 






thanks guys, the main reason i ask this question is because at idle i sometimes have problems with the all the drag on the engine with both the a/c clutch and alternator both kick on at the same time, drops the idle way to low and ends up kicking the a/c clutch off then back on. but if i kick the fan on by my bypass switch it will run fine with the clutch doing its own thing, during normally driving it works normally.

thank you for the info on power source and fuses Don, that is nothing i like to mess with. use to be a electrician assistant for 5 years and understand fully about what guage i should use and what not. My power source is pulled directly from the battery and i use 10 gauge with a 20 amp fuse. some what over kill but i've seen instances where the fuse does not blow and burns the insulation before burning the fuse up. so i like to allow for at least 20 to 40% over kill. i know a bit much but i won't or should not have any fire problems that way.... :p

again thanks guys and i hope their site comes back up soon.
 






Adam, I very highly recommend the progressive controllers. My fan comes on very very slowly. You barely hear it start, I would not be scared to grab the blades when it first starts, it is very gradual. At a guess I think that it never runs at 50% under normal circumstances. When my fan had no power, I discovered it from having a high idle, stopped for some mail, and smelled coolant, it hit exactly 270 degrees. I looked at the gauge, and cut the engine.

After about 8-10 minutes of testing with voltmeter and tapping on the circuit breaker, I got power back to the fan. It came on very fast and ran fast for a minute or so. The temp was 234 after the testing, and normal after that minute of the fan. I had to add about 50 ounces of water total, I caught it early, the temperature came up fast in that last minute or so.

I now have I believe some kind of thermostat problem. I have not lost any coolant, everything is fine except that the coolant is very slow to heat up. I see only about 145-150 degrees going 21 miles to work(70 outside). It takes a good 10-15 minutes of route idling to get up to 190 now. I think that the thermostat is somewhat stuck at a point which cools too much. I'll drive it for a couple of weeks, and then plan to change the thermostat(Failsafe - Motorad(they fail open)).

My circuit breaker is a 50 amp unit, I have it wired to feed my fan and 30 amp air compressor). Regards,
 






Don, i would second your guess on the failing thermostat and i wish someone around here sold the motorad thermostats for when mine took a crap on me a few years back. I was wondering why you had a circuit breaker, lol. I was like man that fan must draw a lot for you to go that hefty but the air compressor will do it. Thank you for the feed back and i will proceed to buying one once their site comes back up or i find another place that sells them.

any other place you guys recommend where to get one at?
 






Al, FWIW, that LED they send you is a Radio Shack part too (at least it used to be... I used them in my truck about 6 years back:

147858.jpg


-Joe
 












This fan controller has proved not to be the answer for a "great" controller.

I plan on replacing it with another FAL one right away.
 












Al, did you get the *new* FAL controller with the wires solidly connected to the circuit board, or the *old* controller with the spade connectors?

I'm already convinced that when my current (i.e. second) FAL controller takes a dive, I'm going to replace it with the SPAL controller.

-Joe
 






Al, did you get the *new* FAL controller with the wires solidly connected to the circuit board, or the *old* controller with the spade connectors?

-Joe


I have the new one. Much nicer than the first one I had.
 






Good. I still have to post the pics of the meltdown I had on the first one... it wasn't pretty. The connection got so hot (resistance due to corrosion) that the spade de-soldered from the printed circuit board.... then I had that same wire melt down on the second one the day before I left on vacation a few weeks back. The SPAL controller uses all sealed connectors, so there's nothing to corrode up here in the salt belt, leaving me without a fan.

-Joe
 






haha, thats funny, i was just looking at that one or the Delta, what was your beef with the Delta? not that great?
 






DC Controls website has been down for a month now. It looks like they are down the tube.
 






Don't tell me that, I have $110 invested in my controller. It does work very well so far, if the fragile connectors are cared for.
 





















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any updates on the FAL VSC?
 






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