I think it's the A4LD blues?

[lifted93xplorer]

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I would appreciate some advise from any tranny guru's, I'll explain a little. My EX is a '93 XLT lifted w/33" swampers. I still have the stock 3.73 gears so my rig doesn't see O.D. unless I'm on a flat stretch of freeway doing over 70. I always drive in 3rd. I've tried to baby the trans but it's seen alot of deep snow and some trails. It has 200,875 miles.

I'll get to the issue. The other day my wife drove it and said it was (missing a beat) , well naturally I have no clue what that means but the next day on my way to work I noticed a hesitation on I believe the 3-2 downshift. It only happened once that morning on my way to work, but on the drive home (10 miles) is when it became more frequent. Now it happens every 2-3 shift, it feels like it's slipping but if I let off the throttle it shifts ok and once in 3rd it doesn't slip. All other gears shift smooth.

I checked the fluid and it's at the top of the crosshatch mark, exactly where it was when I did the filter change and installed a drain plug (6,500 miles ago). The fluid looks and smells good as it did at the last filter change. I have a filter and fluid because I was going to change it this weekend, maybe pointless now. My rig has the factory cooler and auxilary.

Is it catastrophic? I doubt it because all other gears are working properly. So what could cause my symptoms? I did search the forums the last two evenings but couldn't find anything exactly like mine. I would appreciate any advise. I would like to figure it out this weekend but if not I do have another truck to drive. I have seen some great threads by Glacier and Brooklyn Bay and I wanted to at least pull the VB but oriellys didn't have a VB gasket and made it sound like it would be hard to get but I hope they're:smoke:

sorry for the rambling but I think that I'm incapable of just saying, HELP MY TRANNY IS SLIPPING. Thanks in advance for any help. I used to do the mechanic thing so I'm not afraid to dig in but the two areas that I'm lacking knowledge are rebuilding trannys and gear installs but not afraid to learn. 1 more thing, if the trans is deemed as in need of a rebuild I would want to swap to a m5od because I've been dreaming about it for a long time and why spend the money on a rebuild when what I want is a manual anyhow.

Any one in WA selling a m5od?

 

[wood1]

I would first adjust the bands. If you are experiencing slipping, and the band adjustment doesn't do it, you should then either rebuild the valve body (and add all the improvements from sonnex/shift kits) or replace your valve body with a rebuilt. Could be as simple as a blown VB gasket. Did you check to see if your VB bolts were tight with you serviced the tranny?

 

[lifted93xplorer]

No I didn't but all good points thanks. I have never adjusted bands but there are some good threads on adjusting. Like I said, I couldn't find a VB gasket so I may need to go to the dealer or maybe just another parts store. If I rebuild it it will definatley get a shift kit and boost valve at min. Do you think that the bands could be loose in 3rd because that's my primary gear. thanks for the response.

 

[wood1]

200K+ miles, if it hasn't been adjusted it needs it. If I were you I would rebuild the VB and follow Glacier's thread carefully, use both shift kits and everything Sonnex has that you can throw at it. I did and also drilled the separator plate slightly larger and like the results. Either that or just get a rebuilt from Central VB. Hopefully that will get you another few years out of your tranny. Hard to say with the 33's and some abuse though. (I run 31's and drive like a grandmother) You obviously know how soft these trannies get with age... I would also do the servos when you are at it, might as well and it may help. Never know if you have a nick or cracked, shrunken or hardened O-ring.

 

[wood1]

Oh, and if you can find a tranny parts supply house, you'll get parts much cheaper. seems to me Brooklyn tells people to use a specific place, transmission parts usa I believe...

 

[lifted93xplorer]

Thanks for the input. It's held in longer than I could have hoped for it's not like I'm sour on the A4LD or anything it's been good to me but I really want to go manual. I have no clue what it would cost me to rebuild it myself maybe it's not that expensive. But if it's around 500$ to rebuild myself I'll hold off until I can get my hands on a M5OD. If I can't find a manual trans for it I like the idea of a stronger harder shifting auto. When I was younger I never had a truck with tires smaller than 35's and all but one had shift kits, I believe stage 2, anyway I like the tranny to shift hard enough to chirp tires.

One thing I forgot to mention is if I'm getting on it to pull onto the highway it shifts fine, doesn't that seem odd? Also for referance there is no hesitation shifting from P-R or P-D, goes right in. So, if I drive it like a 5500# 140HP (not rear wheel) hot rod it works fine.:scratch:

 

[lifted93xplorer]

A small update, I pulled the vac hose off the modulator and it's dry. I did notice however that the heat shield for the cats is missing, I know it was there at the time of the last filter change (6,500 miles ago). I have been doing alot of searching and reading and it just confirms how much I don't know about auto transmissions. It's frustrating because I always diag and repair my own vehicles but I don't know that much about how it functions.

I don't think it needs a rebuild though I'm going to follow your advise wood1 and adjust the bands, I just need to read the how to a couple more times. I will pull the valve body as soon as I get a gasket and a in/lb torque wrench that's all I'm waiting on. I have a good feel for how much torque I apply but I want to be very accurate.

All I want to know is what can cause a hesitation on the 2-3 shift only but when in third no slipping and no other problems? It acts the same if I shift through the gears manually or just put it in D.

P.S. thanks wood1 for your help I appreciate it. I'm going to order a valve body gasket(actually 3 since they're under 4 bucks just in case), both shift kits in glacier991's rebuild thread and the sonnex boost valve. Ok now I really need some input, on the transmission parts usa web site they list a few sonnex boost valves and I don't know which one I need.

 

[wood1]

I'm thinking that there would likely be an increase in line pressure when you are merging (higher RPM) so that may account for the normal operation then, and a bit of a slip or what you could call a 2-3 flare at lower power application.

If you haven't been running a servo shield you may have baked the o-rings. I would definitely find or make a shield. Shouldn't take much to make your own.

I am not home so I can't check my records for boost valve info, PM BB, he'll no doubt have it. If not, let me know and I will check next week for you. I can't say for sure that I have that I recorded it.

 

[lifted93xplorer]

Thanks wood1 for all your help and advise. I am going to drop the valve body as soon as the parts arrive which should be next week then maybe I'll have a better idea as to my problem.

I will pick up a heat shield from pull a part before it gets drove again and I will check on the servo o-rings. They don't come down with the VB correct? I was wondering if they take a special o-ring or if I can find one at work. I'm a machinist at a fab shop and I make a lot of hydraulic jacks from 55 ton to 500 ton so we have lots of o-rings.

This issue started after my wife drove for about 1.5 hours in stop and go traffic which my EX has never seen since I've owned it so you may be onto something with the baked o-rings.

One thing I did notice today while rolling around under the truck is some markings with blue paint pen like used at scrap yards so I'm sure the tranny was swapped at some point before I bought it, I've owned it for 5 years this month. I can't see what all of it says but I can see a 91. I've been doing a lot of searching and I recall seeing a thread where someone said the 91's had double wrapped bands which take a different adjustment than single wrapped, and I don't want to cause another problem by adjusting too tight. I also understand that a 91 has 2 servos and a 93 has 1 or vice a versa I'll have to look up again.

Thanks again for your help this is an area that until I do it then I'll feel overwhelmed but that is the only way I'm able to learn something new, that's just how I am. I know I have the ability so after I dig in I know it will not be that bad I just have to see it to understand how it works for me to feel comfortable with tearing my tranny apart. I had an idea to just get this one working properly again and pick one up at pull a part to rebuild that way there is no rush, and if I screw it up it's only around 100$.

 

[wood1]

This is the third time typing this, I will copy before hitting the submit button this time in case...

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158160

Do change the o-rings, sounds like they are baked. I would get the proper ones, I do not know if they are normal or have a special profile, haven't had to change mine. They are under the round covers behind that heat shield you are missing, next to the modulator. There is one next to the VB under the pan, it is the reverse 1st, there is an upgraded version of that one, it is a D ring.

Sounds like you may have the double wrap, if you adjust it too loose or too tight you'll know from how it drives (or doesn't).

When you adjust the bands, you should use new jamb nuts as the built in seal can get torn. Don't over tighten the stud (deform the band) and don't loosen it off too much, you may dislodge the band anchor, requiring disassembly. Only use an in/lb torque wrench and good luck!

 

[lifted93xplorer]

Well, I pulled the servos and yep the pistons are really hard causing a bad seal. The o-rings on the covers look standard but I'll get the correct ones. Although I believe the servos are the cause of my issues I have been doing this long enough to know that it can be bad to assume so I will still do the shift kit and boost valve.

On my way home from work I stopped at Ed's Transmission for a valve body gasket and I found out that they have everything I need. They have stiffer servo springs that will help with a firmer shift also. I will pick it all up on Friday after work since they didn't have the transgo shift kit in stock and tomorrow I'm busy. Anyhow, I will most likely get it done this weekend unless the wifey ties me up. I will post with results when done.

Thanks Wood1, I forgot about the jam nuts for the band adjusters I will def replace.

 

[wood1]

Ah ha, sounds like you may have figured it out. I was misleading you talking about the servo o-rings. I forgot what the servos looked like. After reading your post I remembered they are a bonded piston affair, the reverse has an o-ring while the others are the rubber piston deal. As far as the cover o-ring, they are most likely standard. I had a servo like the reverse one picture in my mind for the intermediate and OD...

Take your time with the VB, the drilling of the holes in the separator plate to a larger diameter improves the firmness of the shift as well.

I have had to change the vacuum modulator, and the governor assembly. You did say you have an additional tranny cooler? Is it a big aftermarket or just the Ford towing package one? I stuck the biggest one I could find and an external filter set-up on.

Sorry for the confusion and my crappy memory, if I had been home I would have looked it up before giving advice...

 

[lifted93xplorer]

I have the factory towing package aux cooler I believe, it's about 12" x 18". I have been contemplating adding a external filter I know it wont hurt just a little more insurance. Where did you mount yours? under hood would be ideal in my mind. Does it take a standard filter or is it an odd ball? I also may add another smaller cooler with a small fan mounted and install the whole thing under the truck. She's not a mud bogger so It wouldn't be subjected to any real deep mud but may still clog with road grime since it rains here more often than not.

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention in my last post that my modulator is shot. I know, I know. I was adament that it was fine, when I pulled the vac hose it was dry. I figured why the hell not change it since I was there so I pulled it out and when I tipped it fluid poured out the vac port. I have no clue why it's not in the hose or maybe I just missed it, stranger things have happened.

Thank you for your responses and help wood, your my hero.

 

[Albino 94LTD]

An external filter with temp sensor would be a good idea. You can mount the gauge in an 'A' pillar pod. The ones for early 90's Rangers fit pretty well and are about $22.

The filter is the same as your oil filter.

 

[wood1]

That's exactly where I put mine Albino...

You are right about the modulator, if you have it off why put the old one back on, it's pretty cheap really for the trouble to change the damn thing once the heat shield is on and all. I did mine from the inside of the truck. Took about an hour.

I really like the idea of an electric fan on the aux cooler and have plans to do that some day. Might end up going manual transmission... hard to say.

 

[lifted93xplorer]

After seeing how your filter is mounted Albino I like it and will mount one for sure. My only concern was what filter it took and knowing It's the standard filter ford has used for decades it wont be a problem finding a replacement. I also like the 'A' pillar pod so it's easy to see the temp gauge without driving off the freeway.

Yeah wood, I forgot to mention that I want the fan controlled by a temp activated switch whose real name escapes at the moment. I'm not sure what temp I want it to start and stop at yet, I don't want the fan to start to late and not have time to really cool the fluid so I want it to run anytime it gets say 20*f over the normal operating range for my trans on a flat highway with no load. I'll have to install the temp sensor first to see where that is. I also don't want it to run anytime the ignition is on, and I don't care to run it off a togle switch. I guess it would be good to have it shut off around 20*f under the normal range. My thinking is I really don't believe that the small cooler w/fan will really affect the temp enough to drop it 20* (under normal driving) which in my opinion is fine because I would rather it ran all the time while I'm driving. Then if the fluid is warm and I have just my ignition on the fan will only run for a little while then shut off on it's own.

If that above statement is a little fuzzy:scratch: I appologize it's easy to picture but not as easy to explain. I'm sure you guys understand what I mean.

I guess I could have said it will be like an electric fan on a radiator. There, that was easy.

 

[wood1]

It's all good man, I follow you just fine.

You probably could find a fan off of a motorcycle that would fit/work well.

Reminds me, I should probably replace that filter and cut the thing open for a check-up...

 

[lifted93xplorer]

Well I just got home from work and on the way I stopped and picked up all my goodies so now it really begins. I also bought an in/lb torque wrench so I know it will be tightened correctly. I wish that I could find a torque sequence chart for the V/B but it'll be fine.

Using a motorcycle fan would be perfect, why didn't I think of that. My quad I sold had about a 6" fan for the oil cooler that would do well, especially when I already have 2 coolers.

Ok, enough procrastination(?) I'm digging in, I haven't even pulled the pan yet I just pulled out the servos, modulator and let the fluid drain. Cross your fingers and wish me luck that I don't find anything lying in the pan.

 

[hotrod31]

i used to have a 1991 explorer that shifted the same way your does, i drove for 2 years that way no problem. there is a ford tsb# for that concern, i just cant remember what the number is. I work at a ford dealership, if you are interested i can check that out for you. I always knew when to let off the gas so it would not 2-3 shift flare or you could always exellerate harder to keep it from happening. good luck

 

[lifted93xplorer]

Thanks hotrod, I would appreciate the tsb# I used to work at a chevy dealer and we could get tsb's for any make which I suspose you can too. I have a couple reasons why I don't want to leave it like that first is the fact that I like firm shifts and secondly which is also the biggest reason is that my wife drives it more than I do. I really don't trust her to lift foot on the 2-3 flare.

I pulled the pan and VB, nothing in the pan and it was very clean inside in fact it was so clean that I took pictures to post but what's the point we all know what a clean pan should look like so, I guess that I was a little excited that it was so clean.

Which brings me to my next point, the word of the day is CLEAN.

Back to the point the VB is done I just need to drill the seperator plate, install gaskets and reassemble. Modulator is in and the servos are going in next. Hopefully all is good.

I was stumped on the drilling of the pucks. I thought I was susposed to drill in the valve body where the pucks go. I searched the forum and all I could find were threads and posts that said they drilled the pucks, no specifics on how. Any how it finally clicked.

Well as soon as my wife gets home I'll be at it again right now I have to stay in the house and watch the kids, she said so.

One more thing, I pulled the contents from every bore to make sure everything was moving freely and yep it all moved and was nice and CLEAN, there's that word again. I need a substitute for that word.

Wife's back, later.