What should I buy to make my 94 Explorer XL offroad worthy? | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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What should I buy to make my 94 Explorer XL offroad worthy?

Something I would suggest in light of my recent experiences, relocating your breathers for your axle and transmission.... well, running hoses up to higher locations for the breathers I mean.
 



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A descent suspension lift, 33's and re-gearing, sway bar disconnects, and watching where your tires go and the clearance your going to have is going to help you in off road adventures. You can manage light terrain with 2inch suspension and 31's.
 


















On top of them. On the rear axle it is to the drivers side of the pumpkin. I only mention this because I have had a bit of flooding lately and been forced to drive through the waters.... now I am changing 4 month old synthetic gear oil....
 












Slow down a little and do some searching. All the answers to your questions have already been answered on this site. You can fit 33's with lil to no lift. Gears are good. Lockers are great. I run a locker in my 35 and a stock limited slip in the rear. Have you looked to see if you have a rear limited slip? Check your vin number and that will tell you. You have to buy a new carrier if you have a limited slip. It's great to have the money to do all those upgrades at once, but if you read and research for a lil while you could do so much more with the money you already plan on spending.
 






^^ well said

Don't forget good tow points, and a good set of straps, they should be the first thing on/in your truck. A good hitch for the rear and a set of simple tow hooks off JC whitney or go to pick and pull and bolt them up. Then you need to set a budget and figure out what you really want to do.

SEARCH...read up on SAS swaps for a first gen with the right axle its not hard and much stronger. tires are a must but don't go blow money on a set of 31's and then 2 months later want a set of 35's with a larger lift....and remember with a buddy and a strap your stock explorer is very capable with the right driver.
 






That "right axle" (a Dana60) I suspect would probably be WAY overkill for him at this particular moment ;)

I'd suggest starting with some 33s, a good 3-4" lift (Skyjacker, James Duff) and the 4.56 gears and work from there (maybe adding the lockers, seeings how you'll already have the axles open for the gears).
As for gear brands, the only one I would say stay away from is the USA Standard, which essentially are gears that failed to meet Yukon's standards (also, Genuine Gear I've seen some issues with too). Yukon itself I've had good luck with. Nitro Gear appears to be decent as well.

Hope that helps
 






I'm going to do a 4inch suspension lift with the aussie lockers front and rear. Leave the tires stock for now and see how it goes thru everything before I get new tires.

I could pretty much make it thru a bunch of stuff atm. Just get stuck in some parts. From being too low.

I got brand new same size tires on my truck as well. Once I wear out these stock size tires. I will put my same size truck tires on it.
 






I'm going to do a 4inch suspension lift with the aussie lockers front and rear. Leave the tires stock for now and see how it goes thru everything before I get new tires.

I could pretty much make it thru a bunch of stuff atm. Just get stuck in some parts. From being too low.

I got brand new same size tires on my truck as well. Once I wear out these stock size tires. I will put my same size truck tires on it.

i don't think u get it... tires are what make or break u.
 






yea but without the lift I can't fit the 33's on. I gotta choose what to do first. So lift now then tires since I wouldn't be able to use the tires til I got a lift anyway.

Can I use stock gears for 33's? Or like just have it in low range the whole time I offroad? I just started doing this so I don't know much. I was thinking doing a body lift with my 4inch suspension lift. But many people say it will be too high and might flip. Also the body lift is hard on the mounts or whatever. But I can get the body lift for cheap.

Currently already bought:

4inch suspension lift
front and rear aussie lockers
Warn manual locking hubs

Don't know what else to get. But 33" TSL Boggers.
 






yea but without the lift I can't fit the 33's on. I gotta choose what to do first. So lift now then tires since I wouldn't be able to use the tires til I got a lift anyway.
Tires are cheaper than the stuff you want to buy. And tires are what give you ground clearance, not a lift. Lift the truck all you want, but you are still going to have the plow up front that is your TTB.

Can I use stock gears for 33's? I just changed from this setup. It's a pug to drive. change your gears.
Or like just have it in low range the whole time I offroad? I just started doing this so I don't know much. I was thinking doing a body lift with my 4inch suspension lift. But many people say it will be too high and might flip. Also the body lift is hard on the mounts or whatever. But I can get the body lift for cheap.
Unless the vehicle is driving on walls, there is not really any added stress. That does not include a poorly installed or modified BL. Any thing you buy will be fine. Stick with the 2", Or shave .5" from each end of the the 3" blocks. you will have fewer headaches installing it.

Currently already bought:

4inch suspension lift
front and rear aussie lockers
Warn manual locking hubs

Don't know what else to get. But 33" TSL Boggers.

I used F150 springs and $20 of flat bar stock with a couple new nuts and bolts for a 2.75" lift and I clear 33s on 9" wide wheels. The money I saved in the lift went into the gears and LSD.

If you already bought the stuff, then your better off than I was/am. Keep your eyes open for a set of used tires. A/T tires are fine too. Often some one will be upgrading and be selling there used 33s for cheap.

Find a local wheeling club and go hang out with them. If they tell you not to take a trail, then stay off of it until you learn more.

Never wheel alone.
Carry a spare tire the same size as the ones on the ground.
Take it easy at first. Learn. Even modified Hummers get stuck with inexperience driving.
 






Alright, it seems like you have a good deal of money and exuberance, but not a deep well of experience. When everyone on this site says 'slow down' take them literally, because they know their stuff. I learned this the hard way too, and ended up spending way more money than was necessary to upgrade my Beast. (and I damned near killed myself too)

A few things to think about, 1st, like has already been said, Ground Clearance is what you are after in the end, and that ONLY happens with bigger tires. A body lift allows for bigger tire space, but it can mess with internals, and IMHO is counterproductive (i.e. don't bother with it). A suspension lift, like the skyjacker that you bought? gives you clearance, and gives you more suspension travel. Suspension travel is very important for obstacles, as it allows your tires to stay on the ground while climbing boulders, logs, whatever else you find in your path.

2nd, if you are going for 33" or larger tires, then re-gear, but wait till you can afford gears and lockers together, as you will only want to do the setup once. Also note that the first link for Dana 35 gears that you posted was for a REAR, which is a no go. You need Dana 35 FRONT gears, as they are reverse cut.

3rd, with this many questions that you are asking, I wonder how you will be planning on installing all of these components, and what your plans are for dealing with steering geometry issues, or what ever else crops up? This includes what kit you bought, and if it came with all the peripherals, like extended brake lines, shocks, anti-sway bar end links (with or without quick disconnects), a drop pitman arm, and over-sized caster/camber alignment bolts (3* should do). Also, what rear lift are you planning on going with? and did you buy new U bolts for that axle, as those are a one time use item and should NEVER be reused.

4th, Like everyone else has said, never off-road alone. I have before and to reiterate, I almost died for my foolishness. When dealing with a hobby that is as fun, but as time and money consuming as off-roading, slower is often times better, as you can learn from what others have done, and not make the same mistakes. This forum has been around for quite a while, and by looking through the registries and histories of some of the more prolific off-roaders here (like 4x4junkie or 410fortune for example), you would be amazed by the sheer volume of information that you never knew that you didn't know. I still have those moments, and I've been an avid off-roader for 7 years (since I graduated high-school). I know that taking the time to sit here and thumb through all this stuff can be tedious, but I've found that if you use the search button smart, you can have as much fun reading and learning here as you can out on a trail (mainly because you learn how to fix problems before they kill your vehicle on said trail).
 






Oh, and since I didn't really answer you're thread's initial question: To make your X offroad worthy, more than anything else, you need experience and patience.

I've wheeled with people that had Lifted Jeep Rubicons (dual lockers, 4:1 transfer case, etc) and they got stuck and broke things that I didn't get stuck on with my stock X. The difference wasn't vehicle capability, it was patience. I looked, thought, and carefully worked my way through. They 'knew' that their shiny equipment would carry all the weight and so just dived in with no thought or plan, and broke things. Then I got the satisfaction of taking my 2k dollar ancient SUV and dragging their 30k dollar offroad superstar off the mountain.
 






ok thanks for the help. So would these be the gears to buy for front and rear? I have a appointment to put in the Aussie Lockers on friday. I'm probably not gonna buy the new 33's and rims til my current tires wear out. So should I just go ahead with installing the aussie lockers without the gears. Then install the gears later when I buy the tires and rims? Tires I just put on the explorer are like brand new. They are just 245 75r15's I think whatever is stock size.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Dana-Spicer-35-Reverse-4-56-Ring-Pinion-Nitro-Gear-/310278624988?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item483e0c16dc
http://cgi.ebay.ca/Ford-8-8-Ring-Pinion-Motive-Gear-4-56-Mustang-Bronco-/260119780856?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3c9058ddf8
 






Yes, those gears will work.

You should consider a master rebuild kit for the rear end. It comes with bearings, shims, and seals so everything is new.

It's not necessary up front I'm told because it gets used so little. though new wheel bearings are a good thing since you will have them off anyway.

after you install those 4.56s, your truck will not be fun on the road. Although you will have some crazy torque, you will have that motor wound out @ 65 MPH. I suggest you buy new or used 33s or at least 31s, then sell your current tires to lessen the hit.
 






Could I just not get the gears and just offroad in lowrange the whole time? Cause I was thinking about switching them back to stock tires for winter. Don't really want to use the boggers year round since they will wear down. But if I have to switch the gears I will.

I'm thinking about ordering the 33" boggers and rims right now. But I don't think I could buy the gears and rebuild kit at the same time. Cause I got a suspension lift coming from 4wheelparts and it hasn't shipped yet, so they could throw the tires and rims on the same pallet to save on shipping. Would it be fine to run stock gears for now? then do them later? or will it really mess up the tranny or something. I could just order the tires and rims. Not put them on then when I get my next check I will buy the gears and rebuild kit. Then I would cancel my appointment for getting the lockers put in and do the gears at the same time.

Is this the rebuild kit that was talked about?
http://cgi.ebay.ca/Ford-8-8-Master-Bearing-Overhaul-Rebuild-Kit-TIMKEN-/370462305020?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5641462afc
 



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Yup, that will get it done.

You "can" run the 33s without a re-gear, but you won't have any torque. I just geared mine from 3.73 and 32s. I thought i would be fine too. but less than two months and I bought the gears.

I don't see why you can't run the stock tires in winter. you would normally drive more slowly anyway, so the top end won't be a problem. But it's my guess that you will probably decide to buy some bigger tires for winter too. Like some 31s or something.
If I might make a recommendation, My Firestone Destination A/Ts are great. They are quiet, smooth, grip well in dry and wet. and they were only $150 each. Check them out for your winter tire.
 






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