EGR tube

[0two explorer]

Well, after about six months of listening to an exhaust leak on the passenger side exhaust manifold I decided to "look in to it"..

Found the lear, and proceeded to remove the exhaust manifold, long story short:

3 sheared studs
Sheared EGR tube
Exhaust manifold removed


Have to buy a right angle pneumatic drill tomorrow, and cut some drll bits in half so I can drill/tapp the three studs.

More importantly I ma having a difficult time locating a replacement EGR tube. I have the old one removed now, but is is completerly busted.

Suggestions on where I can look for a replacement...Rockauto has nothing and a vendor on here has it discontinued.

Thanks.

 

[JoshMcMadMac]

Ford part number 1L2Z9D477CA, at least for the 4.6L. I know Tasca had it when I needed to replace mine six months ago.

Not that it is of any help now, but with a lot of cussing and contortion I was actually able to swap the EGR tube without pulling the exhaust manifold.

 

[0two explorer]

Ford part number 1L2Z9D477CA, at least for the 4.6L. I know Tasca had it when I needed to replace mine six months ago.

Not that it is of any help now, but with a lot of cussing and contortion I was actually able to swap the EGR tube without pulling the exhaust manifold.

Thank you, I will look in to this.

The reason the work is being done is due to the leak on the head/exhaust manifold connection. So the EGR had to come off to remove the exhasut manifold.

The leak was on the number 4 culinder, because the bolts sheared due to heat cycling for 10 years now.



EDIT:

So it looks like Tasca has it:


Mechanical Catalog - 2002 - Ford - EXPLORER
emission system, egr system, tube Explorer, Mountaineer 4.6L To 3/4/02


Is this a part that differes from 3/4/02 year models?

 

[0two explorer]

Things just keep getting worse...Trying to do the rear wheel bearings, and cant get the axle pushed out of the hub. Tried everything, assembly currently sitting in dry ice to cool it all down, then I will try to heat shock the hub while the axle is still cold.

 

[drbombay]

You really need a heavy duty gear puller to get that axle out. And someone with a large press to actually change the bearing.

 

[2002GreyHD150]

02-03 EGR set up is TOTALLY different than '04-05 be careful, they dealers try to lump them to move stock. THEY ARE NOT THE SAME.

If you have broken manifold studs also BE CAREFUL... easy to break the drill bit in the head.. as me how I know.<ugh>

Rob

 

[0two explorer]

Everything has been resolved. I tig welded a new section of the EGR tube with an elbow in there. I used some NPT 3/8" stainless nipples and an NPT 90deg elbow for this. The NPT pipe fits perfectly tight inside the EGR tube, so welding it was a beeze. Turned out perfect It was a bit of a PITA to align things, but that was expected.

I pulled the axle out of the diff. and pressed it out with a 50T press. Removing the bearing was a chore, but the combination of a 50T press and some heat it came out.

I used some dry ice on the bearing when I was assembling everything and heat on the hub. The bearing simply fell in place. I did not have to touch it. Same thing with the spindle, I had it in dry ice for about 2 hours, and it too just fell in. No stress on the bearing at all.

Now I have all new bearings (all four corners), all new rotors, pads, E-brake shoes and a complete braking system flush. All is perfect.

The exhaust manifold studs were not too bad. I used these and it worked out great:

http://professional-power-tool-guide.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Grabit-Screw-extractor2.jpg

One was a bit difficult as the drill bit did not want to centre, but in the end I prevailed. So, no more "tic tic tic" on the passenger side. However, now I can hear the driver side, so that will be done in the near future. I am suprised that the studs are so small though. They sheared before I ever started this job, and that was the reason for the leak to start with. Used some high temp RTV with the OEM gasket when installing. Of course cleaning both head surface and manifold mating surface is a must. Steel wire brush on a 90deg drill worked great for this.

I also repaired a screw up that a shop made when they replaced my PS pump. They did not take the time to do a proper pulley alignment, so the belt was riding outside of the pulley, about two ribs out. So I had to go out and get the PS pump pulley removal kit to
do this job right. I love fixing things after a shop that charges $100/h. I would have done that to begin with, but did not have time, at the time.