How to: U-joint removal and replace-how to with pics

[Treleaven]

Well I got the clamps in as best as possible and it did nothing, so I took the front drive shaft right out again and checked it over to find that the rear CV boot where it attachs to the transfer case(on 97's and up) had turn, by the time I found it all of the parts stores were closed so I had up pull up where it ripped and electrical tape the **** out of it. now the trucks works, but for how long....How can this be fixed? Do I need to go the wreckers and get a new drive shaft? Can a new boot be put on? I don't see how that would be possible as it looked like it was built right into the piece that bolts onto the transfer case. I am glad though to find out that was the problem *sighs in relief*

 

[Equnoxe]

just a question here, i was recently under my truck while it was on a stand, and i had grabbed the driveshaft and i could turn it quite a bit from L - R. just wondering if this is a problem? if it is bad then any ideas on how to fix it?

 

[CDW6212R]

Here's a tip I got the last time I had drive shaft work done.

Avoid the u-joints that take a grease fitting. The non serviceable joints are stronger, and typically last 100k or more. A joint with a grease fitting has to be lubricated often, if not it will fail very fast. I know that off-roaders like them a lot for the constant under water use. The grease fitting type give peace of mind to be able to displace water in there. A proper fitting really shouldn't allow any water in.

If at all possible for most applications, buy u-joints without grease fittings. Regards,

 

[Gatekeeper]

Everyone seems to take the whole drive shaft out to change the U-joints. I would like to do this but cant seem to find a socket to fit these wierd bolts.

Just a funny...I removed one U-joint last night only to find the new one was the wrong size. It was about three am out so you can imagine my frustation! Had to crawl on the ground and find all the needle bearings from the old one so I could get to work that morning, haha

 

[Gatekeeper]

CDW6212R Your 100% right. The U-joints without a zert fitting will last much longer than those with ; )

 

[CDW6212R]

A person who actually does grease their fittings regularly can benefit from the zerk fitting type for off roading. That helps to push out any moisture that might get in. But the kind without fittings just are sealed better, I was told by a drive shaft expert.

 

[ozmedia]

Drave shaft specialist needed.

A person who actually does grease their fittings regularly can benefit from the zerk fitting type for off roading. That helps to push out any moisture that might get in. But the kind without fittings just are sealed better, I was told by a drive shaft expert.

Ahh, one of them drive shaft specialists, I like those guys. I am Ford Master Certified and specialize in diagnostics, I went back to school for alternate fuels and emissions control specialization but never made it back for the two year drive shaft course. I figured after 6 years school and 13 years at Ford, I'd had enough studying and would have to leave drive shafts to the experts instead.

LOL, sorry, I'm just giving you a hard time. "Drive shaft expert", if that's what he told you, you were 'shafted' (sorry for the bad pun, just couldn't resist).

 

[CDW6212R]

Welcome, and I've had the same common experiences as others with both kinds of u-joints. The facts support what I have been told. People who use grease-able joints seem to have a lot more failures than with the sealed kind. It is logical to believe that the joints are not being greased often enough in those cases.

It makes sense to think that buying a u-joint that you can grease is a bad idea if you don't grease them often enough. The sealed type seem to last longer than those. Thus the question should be, will you grease the joints when they need it, or not? If they might be neglected ever, it's better to use the sealed kind. Doesn't that make sense. Regards,

 

[GoneFishin05]

Question....

I have a 2005 Explorer that has a vibration at 65mph in the front that some others have spoke of, and I believe that it's a universal. It sounds like it is coming from the center of the vehicle... so would I be safe to say that it is the u-joint? Or could there be another cause? I do have that little bit of a "clunk" when I first put the vehicle into gear.

 

[Wallhack]

Hi to all, and thanks for the how-tos. Just did my rear drive shaft u-joints (05' Sport Trac 4x4). A couple comments in case anyone else runs into this problem.

I got everything apart fine, and got the new u-joints on 3 of 4 places with no problem. But could not for the life of me get the new u-joint on the rear yoke (that bolts to the diff.). It was as if the u-joint was about 1/32" too wide so the 2nd snap ring would not go in. Thought I'd dropped a needle, but no. So finally I tried to force it. Ended up breaking the yoke. Pretty much made me sick. Started calling junk yards to try to find one. Nobody has one. Finally a guy tells me to call FleetPride. I take the broken yoke to FleetPride. Sure enough, they have the yoke in stock. So I get the new yoke, go home. Same problem. Take it back to FleetPride. The guy says no problem, I'll put it on for you. He comes back 5 minutes later. Same problem. Tries one of his u-joints in the yoke. Luckily, they had another yoke on the shelf. Try a different yoke. U-joint fits perfectly. Apparently Spicer's QC is not great and there's a lot of variation in the machining.

Bottom line: Don't break the yoke trying to force it. And if you do end up with a problem with the drive shaft. Take it to FleetPride. They're all over the country and many of the stores are actually driveline specialists. Very helpful and actually gave me a discount for all my trouble.

Also, as others mentioned, AdvanceAuto (and I'm sure others) will "rent" you the C-clamp press. Really you buy it, then return it, so it doesn't cost anything. It's way easier than a hammer if you don't have a bench and vice and all.

 

[woodturner50]

Hi all, when you take the driveshaft of to change the u-joints how do you keep the balls from the transfer case u v joint from falling out, and when thay fall out can thay be put back togather.

 

[snsi]

ujoints

When you typed "Re install in the reverse" - By this do you mean place the cap over the stub, use socket to drive back into place? Do they go back easier than they come out?

 

[DeRocha]

When you typed "Re install in the reverse" - By this do you mean place the cap over the stub, use socket to drive back into place? Do they go back easier than they come out?

U-joints go in 10x easier than getting them out.. If you didn't already see the U-joint replacement page then check it out.. (when viewing the page use the more button at the bottom for the next page).

This page gives step by step details on how to correctly install a U-joint without breaking any needle bearings.

 

[MTH]

U-joint rear

That's a great instrutional thread.... thanks.
I have a problem with my 2007 Sport Trac XLT, 4 L, 6 cylinder, auto, 4x4. I cqannot find a rear U-joint anywhere except a the Ford dealer and they have to order it. Is there something special about this u-joint? someone told me it may have a sensor?
Does anyone know where to get an after market, good quality u-joint. The Ford ealer told me the Ford part # is 7A2Z4635C. Thankd for any help.

MTH

 

[Wallhack]

Try Fleet Pride

I've got an 06, so I doubt it's the same u-joint so I can't help on the part number. But to get a replacement, see if there's a Fleet Pride around you. They are really a truck parts place, but they carry a massive stock of u-joints and yokes. I found this out after breaking the rear yoke on mine. Amazingly, they had the yoke in stock. The down side, they will want you to bring the u-joint in to match it up because it's very unlikely they'll be able to tell you anything based on the Ford part #.

 

[MTH]

THANKS, Wallhack, I looked and the only Fleet Prides are in the eastern part of Pennsylvania. I'm near Pittsburgh. The Forrd dealer even was surprised when he saw the list price of the U joint ($175). It must be something special.

 

[kdspapa]

Drive shaft rebalancing and u-joint grease???

I’d like to add that before you take the old u-joint out you MUST mark for positioning as drive shafts are balanced by the factory and need to be put back together in phase, installing a driveshaft "wrong" will cause vibrations and bind up when slip joints are used.

If driveshafts are factory balanced, would just changing the u-joints change the balance? When would a driveshaft need rebalanced?

Also, are the non-greasable u-joints greased with synthetic grease?

I'm hearing a squeek coming from the back half of my 99 Mounty drivetrain and am considering changing out my u-joints. I've changed out u-joints before but was curious about driveshaft rebalancing.

 

[Homegrown]

U-Joint replacement

OK, that's about it--except you have to do it all over again for the other 2 caps.

And, guess what, there is another u joint waiting for you on the other end--

Re install in the reverse--be very careful not to loose the pin bearings--

You done a great job dissecting the removal process but you didn't do the installation much justice.

Upon installation be sure that you do not bend the caps when your pressing them back in ( I suggest using the C-clamp so that you can feel if the cap is going in straight, You shouldn't have to fight it that hard so if its really tough pop the cap back off and inspect it.) Also if you are careful you can change the u-joint without pulling the whole drive-shaft. If this is your first time replacing a u-joint I would follow the above instructions and pull the shaft all the way out to do the job.

 

[Kotows142]

This post was extremely helpful. Only snags I ran into were actually removing the universal joints. The ball joint press (rented from auto zone) took care of that. I used the misses nail polish to mark the drive shaft before disassembly. Wear safety glasses! I had a snap ring get loose and it did hit them.

My 97 sport only had 3 u joints. 2 on rear drive shaft and one on front to transfer case. The front shaft connects to the transmission with a spline. No clue on if this is factory or not. I did note the trans tagged as a rebuilt Ford.

 

[traveler]

I'm planning on replacing my u-joints soon (160,000 mi on a 2000 EB). Just want to confirm a couple things. 1) there is a quiet squeak coming from under the truck when I'm backing slowly (like out of my garage). I suspect that is a tired u-joint. 2) while under the truck earlier I noticed 3 visible u-joints (as stated earlier). 2 on the rear shaft and one on the front. The end opposite of the front shaft has what appears to be a CV joint under a boot.. am I assuming correctly?