"Thunk" and a "Clunk"

[Pjibs]

Hey everybody,

Taking a break from homework to ask you guys for some help in diagnosing a problem I have just developed over the past two days. Alright so randomly my sport trac with make a hard knock and clunking sound while I am driving. The sounds occur at random on both uneven and smooth roads. One point of origin seems to be right behind the pedals around the front left wheel well. I first suspected a bad body mount, but those look fine. Then I thought maybe a loose shock or spring, so I got a couple of my roommates to shake my truck around to try and make the noise happen in the parking lot... but no dice. Upon visual inspection nothing is visibly broken or rubbing FRONT WHAT I CAN TELL.

The second point of origin of the noise in on the back left, I'd say below the truck bed around the left spring area. Performed the same inspection as I did on the front left to no avail.

Thoughts? I wanna get this sorted out before it gets to much colder and the snow hits so thought I'd ask here first before taking it to a shop. Thanks for any input!

J.B.

 

[swshawaii]

Lift the tires by the LCA's and inspect. First guess would be lower ball joints.
Also check the sway bar frame bushings and end links on the front and rear.
I chased a loud low speed clunk and found a UCA camber nut loosened 1/8".

 

[Flag Gibby]

+1 for what swshawaii said.

 

[Pjibs]

Sounds good! I'll take a look when the sun comes up.

 

[Pjibs]

Think I found it.

The Front stabilizer bar link it sheered off where it connects to the lower control arm. It looks like there is a long stud that runs through it to connect the sway bar to the lower control arm and the bolt/washer has been sheer off.

In terms of parts I need to order... A front left stabilizer link?

Here is a picture to confirm.

 

[Axial32]

sway bar link for short terms.

 

[Pjibs]

Thanks axial32! Do I need to replace that whole link?

 

[Pjibs]

Think I answered my own question... Found these guys. What are your opinions on MOOG products?

2001-2010 Ford Explorer Sport Trac Sway Bar Link - Moog - Front, Non-extended (OE length), OE replacement
Part #: MOK7275
Mfr #: K7275

If I'm gunna replace one, might as well replace both riiiight?

 

[swshawaii]

Moog is the strongest replacement that uses a 7/16" bolt and hardware.
R&R with tires straight and on the ground. Use about HALF of the 15-21 ft/lb.
factory torque spec because the OEM bushings are hard plastic, not rubber
or polyurethane like aftermarket. Also check the sway bar frame bushings.

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_En/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_25471_K7275_En.pdf

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=285772

 

[OffTrac]

Yup, might as well do both. I've replaced both end links and the frame bushings with the Moog replacements about two years ago. Easy and effective upgrade. Half hour job and can be done with nothing more than a ratchet and wrench. I didn't use the torque wrench but it would be a good idea. I just tightened until the bushing started bulging and then I backed it off just a little.

Some people have reported issues of crushing the Moog end link bushings and use the Moog hardware with ES bushings. I haven't had that issue even with a torsion twist and using all of my suspension in stressful situations. So far, my experience has been that the Moog bushings are strong enough. Not sure why others have had that problem but I just wanted to include what I've read.

 

[05dakotatrac]

honestly i did it on my old bonneville in a much cheaper way i went and measured the bolt needed and got one 1/2" longer then bought the universal bushing kit thats $15 at autozone i had grade 8 which is super overkill then nice poly ES bushings for cheap. only catch is the bonne used a metal sleeve like spacer to bridge the gap between upper (sway bar) bushing and the lower (control arm) find on to bridge the 5-6" gap we have in the tracs might be a challenge and i dislike the thought of reusing the plastic style one we have stock. also spacing with washers is not to nice either

 

[swshawaii]

The best combination for strength and durability. Moog 7/16" hardware and
ES 9.8103 oversized bushings. These can be fully torqued without crushing.

 

[mustang6878]

I was looking for shock absorber recommendations on here when I read this post. Imagine my surprise as I took a quick peek under my '03 Sport Track and saw BOTH sway bar links broken and the sway bay just flopping in the air, unsupported.

A stop at the parts store, Moog replacement parts and exactly 47 minutes later, Ol' Red is back together again and as tight as a 16 year old bottle of Johnnie Walker scotch. ( Shame on you "preverts" who thought that was going somewhere else!) ;-p

My total cost for sway bar bushings and 2 sway bar links? $40.72, it was a bargain at twice the price. A HUGE thank you for this write up and everyone who contributed!. If i were to add a note to any of this, forget trying to take apart the old sway bar links by unbolting then, just cut them off with a sawzall and let them drop where they may. Total sway bar link removal was less than 30 seconds!

 

[Pjibs]

Just finished the replacement! Used all MOOG parts. Took me about 4 hours and two trips to the advance auto parts. Reasons: PB Blaster was needed, and I didn't have a hack saw to get the sheered end link off. The bolts were rusted to ****! But gotta say looks great, haven't driven it yet... decided to eat instead haha! Put some quick coats of paint on it to help prevent against rust and I'm back in action. Made it a lot easier to remove the front wheels just to free up space, especially if you were like me, and will have you use your foot to kick the wrench to try and knock it lose with all the rust haha...

Thanks again for the help guys.