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Back for a visit - Tranny Swap

BDShort

Well-Known Member
Joined
January 11, 2013
Messages
111
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City, State
Archdale, NC
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Ford Explorer Sport
Well you guys, I figured I'd come ask you a few questions. I haven't been on here in a while (a good thing, means my car hasn't exploded).

As you can denote from the title, I need to swap my transmission. I've read articles on here and looked in the tranny section but none of them really answered my questions.

I'll start off by saying I have a 1999 Explorer Sport v6 4.0 4x4 and it's automatic.

My reverse band went out the other day when I was pulling into work. Heard a loud pop, and boom no reverse. I've read it's bad to drive with it out because it can crack the housing. Anyway, here's a few questions I'd like to have answered before I dive into swapping it out.

What's the best way to Jack it up? I've drawn that I should put the jack stands in the back to keep the tranny level and just lower it down with the jack itself.

How difficult is it to actually drop the transmission?

Are there any special tools needed other than jack, stands and basic utensils?

Would the exhaust get in the way?

Does anything need to be aligned or can I just pop it in and pop it out?

Would torque converter need any special alignment since it just falls out?

Does the transfer case just pop on and off, or does it need alignment as well?

My 4x4 low doesn't engage, could that be something I can fix in the transfer case while I already have it down?

I don't have a back up car and don't want to risk damaging anything even more by driving it, and also don't want to pay hundreds to get it rebuilt. I consider myself mechanically inclined in a since that I learn fast and do the job well and have basic knowledge on most things. Any help or tips would be highly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Brandon
 



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Hey Buddy,

I did a tranny swap a couple months ago, and learned more than a few things along the way. I posted a few things along with some questions that I had answered in another thread, if you want to have a peak;

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=390354

As to your questions, I can help a little;

What's the best way to Jack it up? I've drawn that I should put the jack stands in the back to keep the tranny level and just lower it down with the jack itself.

I never actually jacked up the rear of mine at all, did the whole thing with the fronts up on ramps. I didnt find the angle to cause me any issues at all.

How difficult is it to actually drop the transmission?

I'm a total amateur and I didnt find it too difficult. I did have to invest in a couple tools as my set is pretty basic, but thats more of a bonus, as now I have more, and better, tools. I went and bought a digital copy of the service manual for my truck ( 2000 explorer xlt v6 SOHC 4x4 ) and found it very helpfull in laying things out in a step-by-step manner. I looked at a Haynes manual to compare and would have been screwed if I used that alone. I could send you a copy of the manual if you want, but you'll have to determine if it is comparable for your year.

Are there any special tools needed other than jack, stands and basic utensils?

I bought some extra extensions for my 1/2IN ratchet set, you need almost three feet of extension to get the tranny-to-engine bolts out, working from the rear of the tranny, once the transfer case it out. I also put a couple of wobble extensions in there too to make it easier. I borrowed a torque wrench for the re-installation as everything in the service manual seems to be very specific about torque values.

Would the exhaust get in the way?

Yes. another poster told me he did it with the exhaust still in and so I did it as well. If you can get the exhaust out, take it out, if you can't, well, don't be surprised, or disheartened, it can still be done. It WILL get in the way though, and pretty much rules out being able to properly use a transmission jack. I didnt have a tranny jack, and was working off a dirt floor anyways, so I didnt use one. I suspect it would be much easier if you can.

Does anything need to be aligned or can I just pop it in and pop it out?

There are two big " alignment dowels " that go into holes on the bell housing at the three and nine oclock positions. As you're wrestling it up and into position, you sort of "hang" it on the pins and then pull it into place. That being said, you can also get one or two bolts started while it's not quite lined up and use them to suck it into place...carefully! Be wary that if you're torque converter is not seated all the way it will hinder the last inch or two of lining up the tranny and if you use the bolts to suck it on, you can damage the pump in the tranny.

Would torque converter need any special alignment since it just falls out?

The service manual suggests using the " Torque Converter Holding Tool " which is just a cleverly bent piece of metal with a bolt hole in it. If you can get one, do it, if not, I'm sure you could dummy something up to do the same job. Not so much for the extraction, but for the installation. Getting the tranny up and over the exhaust and into position requires some creative wrangling by TWO people on their backs under the truck. The tranny WILL be lifted up, twisted, turned and otherwise manipulated. the Torque Converter WILL fall out of position and you might not notice it till its too late and you have that beast half-installed. I wedged a piece of wood between the TC and the bellhousing to keep it from sliding out, but the wedge fell out mid-wrangle and I didn't even notice. Also, both myself and the other fellow on here who did it with exhaust in place, had to pound out a little corner of the floor pan to get enough clearance to get the new tranny up and in, around the O2 sensor on the LH exhaust. I just used a chicel and hammer and pounded a little high spot out of the way, I cant even tell from inside the truck where that is, I think its under the drivers right foot, under the gas pedal somewhere, not noticeable.

Does the transfer case just pop on and off, or does it need alignment as well?

I marked the flange on the rear shaft when I disconnected it so I could put it back in the same position, I'm told its balanced and you might have an issue if you dont put it back the same way.

My 4x4 low doesn't engage, could that be something I can fix in the transfer case while I already have it down?

Might not be a bad idea if you plan on digging into the guts of the Transfer Case, while you have it out. In my thread, I had quite the trouble disconnecting the front shaft from the Transfer case and ended up taking the TC out with the shaft still attached to it, but I haven't found anyone else with the same problem.

Good luck Brandon, and dont hesitate to reply if you have any questions!
 






Well you guys, I figured I'd come ask you a few questions. I haven't been on here in a while (a good thing, means my car hasn't exploded).

As you can denote from the title, I need to swap my transmission. I've read articles on here and looked in the tranny section but none of them really answered my questions.

I'll start off by saying I have a 1999 Explorer Sport v6 4.0 4x4 and it's automatic.

My reverse band went out the other day when I was pulling into work. Heard a loud pop, and boom no reverse. I've read it's bad to drive with it out because it can crack the housing. Anyway, here's a few questions I'd like to have answered before I dive into swapping it out.

What's the best way to Jack it up? I've drawn that I should put the jack stands in the back to keep the tranny level and just lower it down with the jack itself.

How difficult is it to actually drop the transmission?

Are there any special tools needed other than jack, stands and basic utensils?

Would the exhaust get in the way?

Does anything need to be aligned or can I just pop it in and pop it out?

Would torque converter need any special alignment since it just falls out?

Does the transfer case just pop on and off, or does it need alignment as well?

My 4x4 low doesn't engage, could that be something I can fix in the transfer case while I already have it down?

I don't have a back up car and don't want to risk damaging anything even more by driving it, and also don't want to pay hundreds to get it rebuilt. I consider myself mechanically inclined in a since that I learn fast and do the job well and have basic knowledge on most things. Any help or tips would be highly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Brandon
Difficulty would be 8/10

Special tools include 3 10 inch 1/2 drive socket extensions, and a 1/2 drive warble universal joint conversion. Also, it might be good to have an inch/IB or a foot/IB torque wrench.

EXHAUST: Yes the exhaust will be in the way. It will require clever movement to remove the trans out with it installed. The bank 1 o2 sensor will be more of a hassle. I couldnt remove both due to rust. I was able to remove and install tranny with both in...barely.

ALIGNMENT: Pilot explained it

TC: I didnt use any special tool. I had no issues of it falling out either.

Transfer case: This has alignment pins as well as the trans. It's basically a mini transmission inning of itself, just 1/2 the weight. You will destroy the VSS if it isn't removed prior to instillation. Might even help to have it out when removing.

All in all, it's a pain in the butt. Also make sure to use that panel access. Underneath the console, it doesnt help much with the tranny main bolts, but it makes life so much easier with the transmission cooler lines.

That pop you heard was prtobably the reverse band. A very hard fix since it is located in the rear of the trans tail-shaft, interior of course.

Good luck brandon. Enjoy...:D
 






I appreciate the replies fellas. Here's an update:

I went to a junk yard to buy a used trans, which I had to pull. I had 4 jack stands and a hydraulic jack and it wasn't on stable ground. (It had rained days prior and was a muddy area) Ultimately, the jack stands all collapsed so I decided to try some other place.

I managed to buy one from a shop who pulled it for me, I paid 400 dollars and got in on December 20th. Well I live in an apartment complex so I certainly couldn't do a trans swap in the parking lot, and instead instilled faith into a friend to do it for me.

On December 21, I took the tran and the exploder up to him and as I'm typing this, HE IS STILL INSTALLING THE TRANSMISSION. It's been over a month and he still hasn't even put the used one in. I had a 30 day warranty on it and it has since then expired. I was fed up with his lack of effort and decided to go up there monday and pick up my original transmission. In 4 hours I had it completely stripped out and I'm waiting for my parts to come in the mail. I ordered a full rebuild kit on ebay(not sure if this was a good choice or not) but it was only $225 dollars with all the friction plates, bands,gaskets, seals, filters I figure it would be okay.

I'm still waiting to hear back from him to see if he will actually get it done today. We've agreed on him doing it for $200 but after the time he's taken to get it in, and that I've essentially rebuilt a transmission before he could install one makes me thing I shouldn't keep up my end of the deal if he couldn't with his. (I was told 2 days for him to install, not 2 months)

On a brighter note, I have been taking pictures along the way which I'll share with you. I've also got a few more questions to ask.

When removing the valve body I lost all the check balls/pucks. Where can I find replacement ones and where can I find a manual to tell me where they need to go?

I'm looking to clean out all the parts of the transmission and the outside, would brake cleaner be a safe instrument to use? as long as I let it dry before reassembly?

I've also read that when I get the new bands and clutch plates that I should soak them in transmission fluid for a few hours before installing, I can understand the plates, but do the bands need soaking as well?

Here's a picture of what I'm getting off eBay, I hope the quality of the parts isn't a problem. Considering the ford dealership quoted me a total of about 500 dollars for all the parts as opposed to the 225 I got on ebay. Also getting an input speed sensor for 10 dollars, which dealership quoted 60.

9y7j.png


Here's where my reverse band went out.

ju0aq.jpg


Here's where I lost all the check pucks lol. I'm assuming they're pucks and not the plastic balls because I've seen small cylindrical metal circles spread amongst the table. I've went ahead and lost all of them so I need to get some replacements.

tzli.jpg


here's when I initially committed to the project, and was surprised at how good of condition all the parts were still in. Plates and bands all looked good. There's a few seal rings that were a little loose but overall good shape, just that reverse band.

pg8x.jpg
 






Any ideas guys? I need to find a place I can buy check pucks and if I should soak the gaskets/bands in trans fluid too
 






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