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Considering used 4th gen - V6 vs. V8

Indeed! According to information posted in Wikipedia the 4th generation V8 had these specs:

"A more powerful 292 hp (218 kW) 4.6L 24-valve SOHC V-8, similar to the Fifth-generation Ford Mustang's engine, was available as an option."

Woah......

Can't believe I didn't know this! That's awesome!!!
 



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got a used 2006 limited v8 4x4 last winter. so far the only really troubling issue is when its super cold the trans acts funny coming out of first gear at a certain amount of throttle. so when its cold i let it run for a minute before driving off if i can. otherwise the only things i have had to do is replace one coil pack ($45), one door speaker ($25), and it now needs a new cv axle ($65). That is after a year of me driving it fairly rough and it has 138,x.. miles on it.

19mpg long distance doing 75, 15-16 daily driving. the v8 has plenty of power, 4x4 works well but is a buzzkill if you want to have any kind of fun in the snow. the abs and all that stuff wont let you get too wild, which most of the time turns out to be nice, you can just drive and it pretty much takes care of everything. I enjoy this because I can let my gf drive it to work when the weather is bad and i trust the truck to keep her on the road, which her civic does not.

i will probably hunt down a 2010 iron man with low miles next, and i came from a 99 xlt that was still running great with 235,x.. when i sold it to my friend who is now driving it in aspen.

there will be stuff to fix here and there, but chances are if you get on this forum you can fix it yourself fairly cheap if you are willing. if not you should still get on here with any problems and talk to others about it so you dont get waxed by a repair shop who is either trying to wax you, or has no idea what the typical problems are and the easy cheap solutions to those problems. you dont need to spend $800 on getting your plugs and coils changed. you can do it yourself for $400 and these plugs are good for 100,000 miles.
 






Hi Thebrakeman -

When you get a chance, please post a pix of your Equlizer set up :)

I don't think I have a pic, and it's too crazy cold/snowy here to get into the storage yard. Go to the Equil-i-zer website for general pics. They have some great setup videos, etc. If I find a pic of my specific rig setup, I'll post.
 






4th gen structure got much stiffer.
V8 output increase (3-valve engine, vs 3rd gen 2-valve), plus the 6-speed trans
V6 drivetrain stayed carryover
 






07 Eddie Bauer 4.6L AWD

I had a 4x4 extended cab ranger with the 4.0 and 4.10 rear end, in town I got 16 mpg and on the highway I would get 17 mpg. I never had a problem with lack of power for day to day driving, but would want more when pulling just 1200 pounds. In my 07 Explorer with the V8 I'm getting 20ish (last 600 mile trip was 19.9) mpg highway and 12.5 mpg in town. The in town driving is both light and heavy footed, doesnt seem to matter. My daily commute is 6 miles one way, all in town driving. I'm thinking the crappy intown milage is because of idle time at stoplights.
 






.....I'm thinking the crappy intown milage is because of idle time at stoplights.....

....that and in such a short distance, you hardly get up to operating temperature.
 






Usually at normal temp within the first 2 miles, east TX doesn't really get cold.
 












with the 8 you are looking at 800+ to have the plugs changed, and double that when the studs break on the exhaust manifold, per side (cad).

I know this is months old but I have to make sure I go this right since I am looking to buy a 4th Gen (now looking at a Mountaineer Premier V8).

$800 to replace the spark plugs and $3200 to fix the exhaust manifold studs (both sides)? Did I get that right? And I am guessing (hoping) that is the cost to have an auto shop do the job instead of DYI.

How about DYI?
 






I have had a fair deal of issues with my 2006 V6, but it was all fixed under an extended warranty through Ford. I had the Radiator, rear strut, TPMS sensor, Steering column, balance shaft tensioner all replaced to name a few. The dealership found a bunch of plastic pieces in the oil pan which turned out to be the balance shaft tensioner. And now on occasion I have a startup rattle which is most likely a primary chain hydraulic tensioner (which the front one has been replaced). But even after all that I still love my Explorer and enjoy driving it.
 






I know this is months old but I have to make sure I go this right since I am looking to buy a 4th Gen (now looking at a Mountaineer Premier V8).

$800 to replace the spark plugs and $3200 to fix the exhaust manifold studs (both sides)? Did I get that right? And I am guessing (hoping) that is the cost to have an auto shop do the job instead of DYI.

How about DYI?

That individual was greatly exaggerating.

Regarding the plugs, now that more users are following one of the proper procedures, we're seeing far fewer issues here for DIY. There's also a spark plug removal tool available now for this model should you mess up and break one. I just did mine 1 month ago, soaked the living daylights out of them, used a torque wrench set to what the TSB recommended, and out they came. Not a single broken plug (thank goodness.) Truck had 90k on it at the time. Only cost was the cost for 8 plugs, nickel anti-seize, a torque wrench (which I didn't own before,) and a special long-reach spark plug socket made for these 4.6 and 5.4 engines.

Now moving to the exhaust manifold. That indeed is a pain. I'm in the process of getting mine done now. BUT - if you do need to do it, upgrade to stainless bolts. Solves the issue. Also it's NOT $3,200. Give me a break. Highest I've ever seen anywhere is $1,100 per side. Many people get them done in the $400-$600 per side range. I was quoted $600 today myself.

Also, there are now tools available for this as well to make the job much easier especially if you're DIY: http://www.promaxxtool.com/rocky.html


Those are the only two 'major' issues I'm aware of for the v8. Neither of which in my mind are show-stoppers. I've had ours for 5 years and we've liked it. Radiator leaked but that's also an issue on the v6 (they use the same radiator.) Had it replaced by a friend - wasn't that bad. Didn't happen until just last month (did the plugs at the same time.) So it lasts a decent while imo.

As far as the v8 vs v6 goes, one thing we appreciate about the v8 is just how much more smooth it is overall. That 6 speed is also silky smooth. Ours is a 4wd so mpg is in the toilet, but we do appreciate the extra power for towing.

Like others stated, get it with the tow package. It took us a LONG time to find one like that. It was like 95% of the v8's out there had the stupid tiny receiver and not the 'proper' size (i.e.: 'man size') lol.

If you're shopping for a v8. When you go to test drive it, make SURE it's bone cold when you first start it up. Then once you start it, listen for a fairly audible "tick tick tick" (don't confuse the sound with the injector ticking, which is normal.) Again you want to ensure it's cold because the sound will go away in about 90 seconds if it does indeed have an exhaust manifold crack/broken studs.

Also as a general tip. Ask the owner when he last replaced the fuel filter. Many owners of the explorer start to complain about hesitation/bucking/ etc at around the 90k+ mark. You'll hunt it down anything from coils to plugs to the transmission. Many times though it's the fuel filter - a commonly neglected item and, for whatever reason, the explorer seems to be particularly picky about having a clean one.
 






If you're shopping for a v8. When you go to test drive it, make SURE it's bone cold when you first start it up. Then once you start it, listen for a fairly audible "tick tick tick" (don't confuse the sound with the injector ticking, which is normal.) Again you want to ensure it's cold because the sound will go away in about 90 seconds if it does indeed have an exhaust manifold crack/broken studs.


I looked for videos on YT. Sound like this?

 






Yup. That's a bit loud since he has the camera right up in the engine's face. You don't need to get that close. On mine for instance, I start it, for the first 5 seconds it sounds fine, then you hear the 'tick' and it gets louder for the next 10-20 seconds, then by 30-40 seconds (ish) it's quiet again. You can hear it sitting in the car with your window down. That's the danger - if the seller starts it/warms it up before you get there, you might not even hear it/notice.

Here's a very good example. Notice how RIGHT when you start it, it's not there, then you hear it, then it goes away quickly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZyPDZ8QHSBU

This is identical to what mine sounds like and does.

If you have to replace the manifold/bolts - these are your friend: http://www.amazon.com/Ford-4-6-5-4-...&sr=8-1&keywords=4.6+manifold+bolts+stainless

So FAR, everyone I know of who has used those has never had to touch the exhaust manifold again.
 






Hey, that's my YouTube video :)
 












There should be another one after I replaced the manifold. The truck is a lot quieter.
 






Went to see the 2008 Mountaineer Premier AWD V8 (140k miles) this afternoon after work. At the time I called the guy he was on his way to work so that meant the Mountaineer would hat a warm/hot engine. I talked to the guy for about 15 minutes before starting the car again. Not sure about this but maybe the noise indicates a manifold leak(?). See video.

The guy was previously a mechanic with the Marines. I asked the guy if the spark plugs had been replaced and that it could be a problem to remove. He said no and mentioned that there was a tool for that. I mentioned that there could be a possible manifold leak and told he that could be a big and expensive issue. He did not say or ask anything. I told him I wanted to take it to my mechanic. He said OK and then asked me about the price. I told him that $9000 was too much and that I would pay anything between $7500-$8000 and he said that would be fine. He was so OK with it that it makes me wonder. LOL. Negotiations that easy make my eyebrows raise.

He had all fluids replaced. Flushed tranny fluid and replaced the Rad with a NAPA rad. Something that I've never seen was that it had the original 1 1/4-inch hitch on and below it a second 2-inch hitch. I asked if it had the tow package. He said yes but forgot to check if there was an additional oil cooler.



 






If it has 1 1/4 receiver, then it does not have the factory tow package. Maybe the guy added the receiver, I wonder if he added the cooler as well.
 






And yes, that sounds like a leaking exhaust manifold.
 



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That's a hard one. It honestly sounds more like normal injector noise to me, but hard to tell in that video.

Yes, he did add that 2nd hitch later - which means it does NOT have the tow package.
 






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