Bobs2018ExplorerSport
Elite Explorer
- Joined
- February 4, 2019
- Messages
- 249
- Reaction score
- 99
- Location
- USA
- City, State
- Livermore, CA
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2018 Explorer Sport 4WD
- Callsign
- KD6ANY
I just wanted to share that I installed an aftermarket hitch and wiring package on my 2018 XLT, and it truly was a "piece of cake", when compared to the nightmare I went through putting one on my 2015 Edge Sport years ago!
It only took me a couple of hours from start to finish this time, while taking my time. A lot of the difference on this vehicle is due to the truly "plug-and-play" T-connector wiring harness I used. You simply unplug a wiring harness that is hidden up under the passenger-side wheel well, and insert the factory-matched all-weather connectors between the two you just unplugged, and boom, you've got a working 4-way flat connector to mount over by your hitch receiver!
Also, it was fairly easy to remove the two rear exhaust hangers and drop the tailpipes down, then slide the hitch unit up between them and up to the frame.
However, there IS one drawback in their design that I didn't care for (and took steps to improve on it)! The hitch comes with two welded tabs to act as mounts for the exhaust hanging bolts. Therein lies the problem... Instead of providing a pair of fully-threaded 7/16 x 14 carriage bolts to begin with, they give you a pair of carriage bolts that are only threaded halfway in from the end. What this results in is that, even after you tighten the locknut as much as you can, (just enough to remove most of the play and gently squeeze the rubber hanger pad), it still results in a floppy connection, and can rattle. Why they didn't think of either (a) welding on a pair of Ford OEM-style hangers, to match the originals... or (b), to provide a fully-threaded bolt (to make a tight connection mount) is beyond me!
I therefore went down to my local Lowe's, determined to replace those with a fully-threaded 7/16" carriage bolt, only to find that their sizes inexplicably jump from 3/8" to 1/2", with nothing available in-between! I then came up with the idea of using 3" long 3/8" fully-threaded hex bolts, washers, and locking nuts as an alternative. However, in both the original hitch's design, as well as my revised design, the idea of hanging that rubber hanger off of a threaded bolt didn't sit well with me, as over time the threads might eventually chew-away at the rubber slot. Amazingly, Lowe's also had some perfectly-fitting metal sleeves that fit perfectly over the threaded 3/8" bolt, and fit perfectly into the round slot of the rubber hanger, therefore making it look like it all actually came that way (while also providing a smooth surface upon which to carry the weight on). I did all this BEFORE I mounted the hitch, as you can only get access to these two hanger bolts when the hitch is not yet installed. IF you get this same kit, you'll see how they did cut one corner on their design, but that a fix similar to my idea is a way to circumvent it!
Once that obstacle is cleared, it is very easy to mount the hitch, since the frame already has weld-nuts inside the frame. You just bolt it on from the underside (although they do give you one additional bolt that you fish into the inside of the passenger-side frame, which was really easy). I think the photo shows a very clean installation.
Here are the part numbers:
- Draw-Tite # 76034 Hitch (fits 2011 - Current Explorers)
- Tekonsha # 118540 T-connector Wiring Harness (plug-and-play)
- U-Haul # CQT118144 4-Way Flat Mounting Bracket Kit
Additonal improved hanger bolt items: (2) 3/8" x 3" long hex machine bolts and nuts; (2) 3/8" "stop nuts"; (2) lockwashers, and (8) 3/8" fender washers
Bottom line is that this hitch and wiring kit is a real piece of cake overall, and I highly recommend it!
It only took me a couple of hours from start to finish this time, while taking my time. A lot of the difference on this vehicle is due to the truly "plug-and-play" T-connector wiring harness I used. You simply unplug a wiring harness that is hidden up under the passenger-side wheel well, and insert the factory-matched all-weather connectors between the two you just unplugged, and boom, you've got a working 4-way flat connector to mount over by your hitch receiver!
Also, it was fairly easy to remove the two rear exhaust hangers and drop the tailpipes down, then slide the hitch unit up between them and up to the frame.
However, there IS one drawback in their design that I didn't care for (and took steps to improve on it)! The hitch comes with two welded tabs to act as mounts for the exhaust hanging bolts. Therein lies the problem... Instead of providing a pair of fully-threaded 7/16 x 14 carriage bolts to begin with, they give you a pair of carriage bolts that are only threaded halfway in from the end. What this results in is that, even after you tighten the locknut as much as you can, (just enough to remove most of the play and gently squeeze the rubber hanger pad), it still results in a floppy connection, and can rattle. Why they didn't think of either (a) welding on a pair of Ford OEM-style hangers, to match the originals... or (b), to provide a fully-threaded bolt (to make a tight connection mount) is beyond me!
I therefore went down to my local Lowe's, determined to replace those with a fully-threaded 7/16" carriage bolt, only to find that their sizes inexplicably jump from 3/8" to 1/2", with nothing available in-between! I then came up with the idea of using 3" long 3/8" fully-threaded hex bolts, washers, and locking nuts as an alternative. However, in both the original hitch's design, as well as my revised design, the idea of hanging that rubber hanger off of a threaded bolt didn't sit well with me, as over time the threads might eventually chew-away at the rubber slot. Amazingly, Lowe's also had some perfectly-fitting metal sleeves that fit perfectly over the threaded 3/8" bolt, and fit perfectly into the round slot of the rubber hanger, therefore making it look like it all actually came that way (while also providing a smooth surface upon which to carry the weight on). I did all this BEFORE I mounted the hitch, as you can only get access to these two hanger bolts when the hitch is not yet installed. IF you get this same kit, you'll see how they did cut one corner on their design, but that a fix similar to my idea is a way to circumvent it!
Once that obstacle is cleared, it is very easy to mount the hitch, since the frame already has weld-nuts inside the frame. You just bolt it on from the underside (although they do give you one additional bolt that you fish into the inside of the passenger-side frame, which was really easy). I think the photo shows a very clean installation.
Here are the part numbers:
- Draw-Tite # 76034 Hitch (fits 2011 - Current Explorers)
- Tekonsha # 118540 T-connector Wiring Harness (plug-and-play)
- U-Haul # CQT118144 4-Way Flat Mounting Bracket Kit
Additonal improved hanger bolt items: (2) 3/8" x 3" long hex machine bolts and nuts; (2) 3/8" "stop nuts"; (2) lockwashers, and (8) 3/8" fender washers
Bottom line is that this hitch and wiring kit is a real piece of cake overall, and I highly recommend it!
