- Joined
- February 2, 2002
- Messages
- 14,473
- Reaction score
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- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1998 Mountaineer AWD
It’d be a super easy piece to make. Could be cranked right out. I wouldn’t want the liability of bonding the plastic to them though.
@2000StreetRod Epic response - bravo!!!
Please go on to tell us why FORD, in all it's wisdom, decided to place a water pump internally
on their 3.5 and 3.7 V-6's
LINK: https://www.courthousenews.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/FordPumps.pdf
@96eb96How did they manage to mount huge V8s in FWD Continentals and Taurus with serviceable external pumps.
I’m surprised this wasn’t the route taken due to the increase in electric drive accessories, like power steering and AC.@96eb96
And, reveal too why use of a remote-mounted electric pump could not have been used instead, with either type of drive-line? imp
@Mbrooks420I’m surprised this wasn’t the route taken due to the increase in electric drive accessories, like power steering and AC.
Your rear guide is busted at the pivot pin. You can see its up against the head casting, it should have a space and be up against the torq screw.I recently replaced the valve cover gaskets on my Job 1 2001 Sport Trac, 272,000 miles with the original engine. Both timing guides look to be in good shape.
It has chain rattle only on cold startup, but using the following cold start procedure pressurizes the tensioner and eliminates rattle:
1) Press accelerator to the floor
2) While holding the accelerator to the floor, crank the engine until oil pressure registers on the idiot gauge
3) Continue to crank, and let your foot off of the accelerator. The engine will start up perfectly with no chain rattle
Although these engines have a bad reputation, this one is smooth and strong. Doesn't burn oil at all.
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You are correct. The picture above is how it's supposed to sit. The gentleman with 270k has a busted rear cassette so the chain is probably only riding on half the guide.I was going to say that rear guide sure rides a lot further forward than mine, but mine looks a lot more like that last picture.
Im gonna try it. I've got a couple ideas, gonna draw them on paper and post it later. Keep in mind, I have an explorer that I did a total rebuild on. This one is just to goof around.Forge one out of beer cans
Sounds crazy but just might work
I doubt your rear cassette is broken lower down near pivot pin but it is not being held in place by that top fancy bolt where it has damage. So the chain does not run fully/centrally on plastic.Sorry, but I can’t tell what is broken on mine from the pictures.
@Thev6thatcouldYou are correct. The picture above is how it's supposed to sit. The gentleman with 270k has a busted rear cassette so the chain is probably only riding on half the guide.
I just picked up another explorer with some rattle. Gonna try the JB weld fix. But my thought is, why can't I buy another guide, and disconnect it from the pivot pin. Then take the metal backed traction part, flip it upside down, and bolt it to the upper positioning bolt with a couple spacers so the chain rides on that?
That way you'd have 2 of the same parts. Not a permanent fix but definitely a trial run.
You are 100% correct and that's why ford engineered the nylon over the metal. What I'm saying is if I take a new cassette, split it in 2, and take the metal backed traction guide and bolt it upside down at the upper positioning bolt, it MAY work. Again, it'll need some trial and error but I'm out to design something that may be a temp fix.@Thev6thatcould
Metal friction against metal friction is tricky business. If both surfaces are very hard, it works effectively, or in the case of certain dissimilar metals, works well, like steel on bronze. One other factor is the need for constant lubrication. imp
@Thev6thatcouldYou are 100% correct and that's why ford engineered the nylon over the metal. What I'm saying is if I take a new cassette, split it in 2, and take the metal backed traction guide and bolt it upside down at the upper positioning bolt, it MAY work. Again, it'll need some trial and error but I'm out to design something that may be a temp fix.