Justanothername
Member
- Joined
- August 1, 2015
- Messages
- 19
- Reaction score
- 10
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2011 xlt
Hi Everyone,
There doesn't seem to be a lot of information regarding the oil pan on the 3.5l motors so I wanted to provide some.
I have over 100k mile on my 2011 XLT 4wd Explorer and I could hear the rattle of a main bearing. Now, I run Mobile 1 and do regular maintenance so I am not sure why yet, other than high mileage. In order to get to the bearings, I had to drop the oil pan.
Since theres not a lot online about the process, I wanted to provide some information.
1. You CAN drop the oil pan with the engine in the vehicle.
2. You have to disconnect the belt, unbolt the AC Compressor and Exhaust (4 bolts) at the Catalytic Converters to drop the oil pan. And of course all the bolts for the pan.
Belt - You have to disconnect it to allow the AC compressor to move.
AC Compressor - You DO NOT have to remove your AC lines. There are 2 bolts and a nut that mount the AC compressor. The bottom bolt of the AC compressor that the nut goes on, is actually connected to the Oil pan. Also, one of the bolts is pretty hidden, its on the other side of the AC compressor (radiator side)
Exhaust - Though it looks like there may be space to drop the pan and slide the AC compressor off the bolt thats connected to the oil pan, you can't. There is not enough room because of the tranny mount.
you HAVE to unbolt the exhaust from the cats. You don't have to unbolt the back of the exhaust.Ford used a flexible material in the exhaust in the piping so it will drop down (and move around).
3. There are 2 hidden oil pan bolts above a piece of rubber between Oil Pan and bell housing.
4. THERE IS NO OIL PAN GASKET (for those 3.5's that see oil pan leaks, this is something to know). It is only sealed with RTV Gasket maker. Mine is using the black RTV.
After I clean the oil pan and block I plan on using Permatex Ultra Copper Max Temp RTV, since its more oil resistant and can handle higher heat.
Hopefully this helps everyone, I know it would have helped me. Thanks.
There doesn't seem to be a lot of information regarding the oil pan on the 3.5l motors so I wanted to provide some.
I have over 100k mile on my 2011 XLT 4wd Explorer and I could hear the rattle of a main bearing. Now, I run Mobile 1 and do regular maintenance so I am not sure why yet, other than high mileage. In order to get to the bearings, I had to drop the oil pan.
Since theres not a lot online about the process, I wanted to provide some information.
1. You CAN drop the oil pan with the engine in the vehicle.
2. You have to disconnect the belt, unbolt the AC Compressor and Exhaust (4 bolts) at the Catalytic Converters to drop the oil pan. And of course all the bolts for the pan.
Belt - You have to disconnect it to allow the AC compressor to move.
AC Compressor - You DO NOT have to remove your AC lines. There are 2 bolts and a nut that mount the AC compressor. The bottom bolt of the AC compressor that the nut goes on, is actually connected to the Oil pan. Also, one of the bolts is pretty hidden, its on the other side of the AC compressor (radiator side)
Exhaust - Though it looks like there may be space to drop the pan and slide the AC compressor off the bolt thats connected to the oil pan, you can't. There is not enough room because of the tranny mount.
you HAVE to unbolt the exhaust from the cats. You don't have to unbolt the back of the exhaust.Ford used a flexible material in the exhaust in the piping so it will drop down (and move around).
3. There are 2 hidden oil pan bolts above a piece of rubber between Oil Pan and bell housing.
4. THERE IS NO OIL PAN GASKET (for those 3.5's that see oil pan leaks, this is something to know). It is only sealed with RTV Gasket maker. Mine is using the black RTV.
After I clean the oil pan and block I plan on using Permatex Ultra Copper Max Temp RTV, since its more oil resistant and can handle higher heat.
Hopefully this helps everyone, I know it would have helped me. Thanks.
