Does anyone have the following part?

[koda2000]

They aren't hard, if the T50 bolt comes loose. All of the seat belts, and door/hatch strikers, are held down by T50 bolts. Some at this age will have seized to the body thread insert, those can be hell to remove.

So find a very good T50 Torx bit(mine is a Snap-On I got because some brands don't fit as well), and with a long ratchet, slowly break it loose. PB Blaster may help, basically those bolts that protrude under the body are most likely to be the hardest. On those you could get under the truck to spray the threads and insert. I'd do that on the center most floor T50 bolts, but I've tried them first most of the time.

The white 98 I just got I removed the rear seat and belts, those let go without much trouble. But the same bolts in my 93 truck didn't play nice. The right one wouldn't come out, that was in 2006, it stripped the center Torx hole out, and I had to drill that one out.

View attachment 176385

No rust to deal with on this truck. I might try heating the bolt first, as Ford loves to use that red Loctite on everything. It'll be a good test of my new Milwaukee M18 Fuel 1/2" impact wrench.

 

[CDW6212R]

They are not really a problem. I've just had a few that did fight, so I detailed those and it sounds worse than it is. I use my favorite long swivel 3/8" ratchet, and the T50 bit, and they usually let go and don't take long to remove.

I would avoid an impact though for any weak kind of fastener or tool connection. Torx are very good, but if one of these is really tight, the force may hurt the bit or bolt head. Try a long ratchet to break it loose, than an impact is good to run it off.

 

[XLTrunner]

I've got lots of experience removing those T-50's...and, not all were pleasant ones. I've broken bits and done my share of stripping the heads on floor mount bolts; most always when trying to remove them with a socket wrench. Of course, I have the added fun of rust to deal with up here in MN with no ability to use heat when out in the JY's. I disagree with not using an impact driver. I now use my trusty Dewalt 18V cordless. You can get more torque on them than trying to bust them loose with a hand wrench. You're usually in tight confines that don't allow a long breaker bar, anyway. Plus, you can more easily rock the bolt back and forth to help loosen it. However, two things to keep in mind...(1) keep bit straight with lots of downward pressure on the bit to prevent it from slipping inside the torx head. A couple of times of slippage/strippage and it's game over and time to drill. It's easier to control the downward pressure with an impact rather than by hand wrenching. And, (2) Use as short of extension as possible to allow as much torque to the bolt without deflection in the extension. Best option is to not use any extension if space allows. I've come to learn that if it isn't coming out with the Dewalt, it surely isn't coming out with the socket wrench.

The JY workers at the full service yards up here know to just cut to the chase and put the acetylene torch to the bottom of the bolt to heat it up. Comes right out...lol.

 

[410Fortune]

Okay so you probably do not want the one we have, its all moldy....yuck
The sport outside has a grey interior and the limited has your part, but that truck is pretty nasty as she is headed to crusher
Dang

 

[CDW6212R]

That's possible to restore, a high pressure washer could clean the mold. The condition of the fabric is most important, that it's not frayed or warped etc. That one is dirty for sure, but if it's structurally good, I'd try to clean it.

 

[toypaseo]

I would consider that good, if the fabric is in great shape

 

[koda2000]

Okay so you probably do not want the one we have, its all moldy....yuck

The tan moldy one doesn't bother me. I think I can clean that up with no problem as long as the mechanical part is okay.

Stick it in a plastic bag and ship it. I'll PM you my address.