$200 V8 Project

[RandomNerd2000]

Update. 20K miles of driving it came and went rather well, and then 21K today. Fixing it is nice, I gotta admit I've come to love this truck even as rough as it is in places. Doors still need the latches and actuators from my Mountaineer, and the headlights both now leak but that's no big problem. Only significant problem I had was, the drivers side upper ball joint boot got rotten and then came off over the 21K miles, followed by the joint then wearing out FAST. So I changed that. That was mean, I hate that job, got a like new arm for $20 off a rust bucket at the junkyard because I was in a hurry to beat the rain. This truck drives PERFECT now, except for needing the factory shocks changed out.

I will admit for the first time since the accident a year ago (left front) I was able to align the front end and it have a straight steering wheel. This truck has been aligned four times since then, you couldn't get it aligned to have a straight, and nobody could explain why. Nothing was bent either best anybody can tell. I've measured the frame in half a dozen places and it's perfect compared to all my other ones. It wasn't ever off bad but I like stuff perfect. Ball joint maybe? No up and down play but free motion was plentiful.

 

[CDW6212R]

It is probably a BJ or two, the lowers are common to be bad, and hard to diagnose. Lift the truck on jack stands with the tires just off the ground by an inch or so. Then with a shovel or strong board etc, gently pry under each tire while observing the lower BJ. If you see any movement at the BJ when prying up on the tire, then that BJ is definitely bad. The UCA's are easy to replace other than the camber washer installs on the left side. But the alignment needs to be done when you do replace any arms.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

So it made 280K, it amazes me still I've taken a $200 truck, and minus a transmission and accident, driven almost 25K miles with just normal 2nd gen repairs. These V8s are eternal I swear sometimes. What aren't eternal are those factory shocks I've been putting off, they're moving up the project chain because the left front is leaking a bit and the rear ones are just worn out. I doubt I run anything overly expensive whatever I choose since I just use this one for a daily and a work truck, and is far from perfect, unlike my Eddie Bauer which will be near perfect.

Things I've got to do, outside of the shocks, is figure out why the rear hatch is so stiff, the latches themselves are stiff, lubing them doesn't help, and this isn't an OEM hatch so I doubt that's anything to brag about, since every 2nd gen I've ever seen used better paint than single stage white, and didn't have random scaling patches down to the primer. One would argue replace it but it's heavy and I could always just paint the one off the Mountaineer or that blue one I have for less, they both open and close fine.

Other issues I've got to address are, the right rear door exterior handle is broken off, the manifold I've got sitting on the shelf would work better on the engine, or so I've been told, and not occasionally trash the cylinder 3 plug wire. I also had a friend send me the harnesses for the Mountaineer front bumper I have, so I'm going to hang that since that one isn't all warped up, or eventually at least. I'm wrapped up in Eddie Bauer still, spent two weeks sick.

 

[CDW6212R]

Does your rear hatch shut fairly well? Or does it feel loose at all side to side, or not latch evenly etc?

My 98 Mercury hatch shuts almost flawlessly, had the original strikers until I swiped one to put on my 98 Explorer. I've lost count of how many striker bushings it has worn out. Mine had an antenna of some kind at the top seam of the hatch, and I think they bent the right hinge a bit. I think it's worn, a little loose, and allows too much movement, which stresses the latches and strikers too much. I have bought new hinges, those are still available, about $40 I think they were. But changing those is tough, it's a two man job.

The latches are obsolete, as are the weatherstrip seals. Find some, for me too.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

I wonder if there's a striker problem somewhat, I do know I've got a brand new squeak going over bumps inside the cabin, I think I'm going to swap the latches and strikers and see if that'll help any. The strikers might not be OEM, or the latches might not be and the tolerances might be off. Swapping the whole thing sounds easier but I rather have the satisfaction of fixing the actual issue.

The parts being obsolete is why I keep so many parts around, because even if I don't perfect this truck, the Eddie Bauer I do keep as close to perfect as I can when it's on the road.

 

[decipha]

I in a similar boat, I had a 2k explorer 5L given to me by a friend after I tuned his car. Other than a fuel pump dying from running it on fumes all the time its been indestructable.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

So apparently I haven't been on here in three weeks, but I found a lot of what's wrong with the rear hatch. The center mechanism locked up, will NOT move, so at the moment the interior panel is out, and the linkage arms are loose, and the hatch works great. How do you replace the center mechanism where the arms and all hook on?

 

[CDW6212R]

Try to lubricate it well first. I had my hatch handle begin sticking after being pulled open, in my Mercury about ten years ago. I finally worked with it and it just took some WD40 and white lithium spray grease. I think that will solve most issues with any of the latches.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

So update, rolled 285K miles, been pretty uneventful, have noticed in recent times I either leak or burn enough oil to justify adding some in-between 5K mile changes, but hey that's life, I still run 10w30 in it so I'd figure leaking, valve cover on the right side stays damp underneath, plus the typical rear main leak. Nearing 300K, it's been well served.

Otherwise, same old work truck, it pulls trailers pretty well, I gotta admit that, a 5x8 with everything on it I can fit goes down the road just like normal. I also finally undertook fixing the headlights. My biggest complaint, since the accident in 2017, was the headlights were so bad, you could drive with the brights on and nobody notice. That was 22K miles ago, and since that, the passenger side started getting moisture in it, then the drivers, and I'd ignored that until at least once a week I got to go junkyard walking for a headlight bulb.

With that said, for the wholesome sum of $10 at a scrap metal place out a truck to be shipped out, I got a matching header, both headlights, and a set of ZXE Sylvania bulbs. Man I can see EVERYTHING now it feels like, the brights seem excessive.

Now comes my question, these headlights have Niteshades on them, like rattle can light tint, which I like on tail lights but am absolutely against on headlights. Anybody know how you remove it without having an off look to the texture of the light?

 

[CDW6212R]

If it's on the plastic outside, you can remove it fairly easily.

Try brake cleaner first, but only on a rag and not soaked. Spray a little on a rag, and quickly wipe along the bottom edge to see if it removes anything, and if it hurts the plastic. There are many different plastics, some are softer and brake cleaner can slightly melt them. So if it hurts the plastic slightly, stop because it just gets harder to correct. I suggest the brake cleaner first because if it's a quality plastic, and it removes the paint you want off, then it can be done in a minute.

Otherwise, it'll take some sanding or buffing, with more labor. I like to begin with simply a rag, and a little liquid compound. If it's a strong/cutting compound, that will have to be diluted and not rubbed too hard. Most of what people get it milder, and you can put that on directly and rub as hard as you want. it can be done just by hand, or with any buffer, orbital etc, an the plastic will clean up great.

BTW, if you ever can pull a valve cover, do it and check the gaskets. If they are not in great shape, replace them with a real steel/rubber gasket, which should last forever without leaking. Factory 302 HO's had the best steel gasket from 88-92, and it used to be about $20 each. Aftermarket has some decent copies, but those OEM were thick steel with good rubber coated on both sides.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

It is on the outside, I like the black lights on a white truck but I'd rather have aftermarket lights for that, beats a nice ticket for something I know is illegal. I thought about that, and testing to see if it hurts the plastic is easy enough, the old junk lights are still here. I also thought about Goof Off, everybody swears that'll take VHT off, then clean the surface with dish soap and water and you're good. I will likely go the buffing route because the lights likely are yellow underneath.

Yeah I checked today and right above cylinder three, it's consistently damp for about three inches, which would add up over 5K miles. Might try a PCV valve to see if that helps it any, never have done one on this truck. If memory serves, the local Carquest I use here actually keeps the HO valve cover gaskets hanging in two packs on the wall, they're aftermarkets though.

 

[CDW6212R]

Do the PCV and let me know how that goes. I've got my hands on it a couple of times, and imagine it'd be hell to do with just one hand. I might have to take the intake off to do mine. I'm wondering about the metal screen below the PCV, if that clogs up some, then oil is more likely to be consumed. If I can barely grab the PCV, I hate to think of fishing out that screen.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

Me too, I'm glad that my motor has been well maintained, or at least at near 300K I'd take it in faith it has been, this leak is a sudden new problem so I'd figure that likely it's sticking. I did the one on my Eddie Bauer with it in front of the truck sitting in a tire so I'm sure I won't have that to worry with. Won't be far I'll have it to enjoy again, I actually am devoting time to it.

 

[koda2000]

Ford made changing PCV's on all 3 engine choices a real treat. I feel like you need to remove the hood to change them. I miss the days where they used to just be stuck in the valve cover. The Job 2 SOHC's PCV isn't too bad to change except for the added complexity of having to deal with its coolant lines.

 

[CDW6212R]

My hands are too big, I think a 14 year old is about the right sized person to change those hidden parts.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

I know on a SOHC I never changed it, couldn't see doing it with the intake together, even with my smaller hands. I've actually got a new one for a V8 I got out of a box of junk somewhere or another, name brand one too, think it's in my seat pocket. I've about decided to change the EGR tube and valve with the manifold too, since I wanna finally tackle that on this thing, I don't see moving that nut on that tube, the parts cost on RA came out to like $68, and at near 300K why not. Gotta knock some stuff off the list of stuff to do to it.

 

[koda2000]

I know on a SOHC I never changed it, couldn't see doing it with the intake together, even with my smaller hands. I've actually got a new one for a V8 I got out of a box of junk somewhere or another, name brand one too, think it's in my seat pocket. I've about decided to change the EGR tube and valve with the manifold too, since I wanna finally tackle that on this thing, I don't see moving that nut on that tube, the parts cost on RA came out to like $68, and at near 300K why not. Gotta knock some stuff off the list of stuff to do to it.

I've changed the PCV valve on an Job 1 SOHC (2001). It wasn't easy, but even with my large hands I managed. The hardest part was pulling the valve out from the hose that goes down to the block. The hose gets stiff with age and it didn't want to let go. I was afraid it would pull the hose out of the block, but I eventually got it done.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

So that free hanging AWD stuff I left under there when I put the 2WD trans in? Yeah I finally had to bypass that, went across railroad tracks, most awful noises from under there, vibration in the floor again. Just split the CVs and put the ends back in, one end in the hub and the other in the diff until I get some 2WD spindles. Talk about light weight steering, man it feels so light now, lot better pep feels like.

With that said, almost drove the thing 30K miles, couldn't have convinced me when I bought it I'd ever drive a $200 vehicle 30K miles. There's a 2001 Mountaineer here, 5.0 V8, apparently blown for $450 I might go haggle on if I get my Eddie Bauer finished in the next day or two, dark green with black interior, like the combo a lot.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

So update to THAT, won't be planning on that Mountaineer, thing has no rear end in it, love how sellers never mention things like "oh yeah I sold the rear axle". Finding these V8s anymore is a real chore, can't even find beat to heck V6s here hardly. Ah well, at least I'm near Copart if I ever decide to get a third one again.

 

[CDW6212R]

So update to THAT, won't be planning on that Mountaineer, thing has no rear end in it, love how sellers never mention things like "oh yeah I sold the rear axle". Finding these V8s anymore is a real chore, can't even find beat to heck V6s here hardly. Ah well, at least I'm near Copart if I ever decide to get a third one again.

Yeah, it's getting to the point you have to piece together a vehicle from a couple. I've done that before, but I'm older now and it's too much trouble now. That said, I have lots of parts, to build a few projects.