2003 Mercury Mountaineer. ABS problem. | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2003 Mercury Mountaineer. ABS problem.

avritch

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Year, Model & Trim Level
2016 Ford Explorer XLT
Hi Everyone,

Here is an issue with ABS that hopefully someone can shed light on

#1 Replaced front wheel bearings about a month ago... all went well... new hubs contained new wheel speed sensors

#2 ABS light just came on (just coincidence that I replace both front hubs that contained new sensors?... the light did stay off for a month after replacing the hubs and the anti-lock were working recently...)

#3 I ohmed the old and new sensors and they both act like a diode (infinite resisitance one way, and apx 0.6K on the diode scale the other)

#4 I plugged in the old sensors for a quick test... light didnt' go out the next time I turned on the key

#5 the next step is to read codes (I'm waiting for the ABS capable code reader to arrive)

Questions: On a 2003 AWD Explorer/Mountaineer
- Should front speed sensors look like a diode?

- If you correct the problem, will the ABS go out the next time you turn on the key (or do you need to clear codes or drive a certain # of miles)

- If I do end up having to change the ABS control module, is there any way to calibrate/configure w/o going back to the dealer? All the research says you need a Ford scanner. Also, if you replace the control module, can you bleed the system w/o the ford scanner?


Thanks in advance
 



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I have a PC based Auterra Dynoscan, but the "Enhanced Ford" upgrade software that can read ABS codes isn't compatible with my VIN. They'll eventually issue a new software, but until then, I'm planning to go with the EQUUS 3160 (if you have a suggestion for a different scanner, I'd love to know).

I tried to research the bi-directional capabilities of the 3160 compared with other scanners, but I couldn't find much at all about the specific "test" capabilities of the 3160
 






did you disconnect the battery to reset?

I did the passenger front hub on my wife's Monty, as I only had 1 ABS code for the right front, and the light went off & has stayed off until now the Driver's front is dying (bad bearings causing erratic ABS signal, same as before). I am replacing it this weekend.

I would pop the negative cable off the battery at least 15 minutes... if not overnight.

Clear the codes.. then take it somewhere where they can check, pull & properly clear all codes.

Rob
 






Yup... tried disconnecting battery. Also plugged in the original front VSS sensors that I saved from the old hubs... No luck... Light stays on

Equus 3160 should be here in a few days... I'll let ya know what I find
 






Probably rear abs sensor, most common issue.
 






Got the Equus Innova 3160. Read an ABS code of C1145 (open circuit)... so I swapped out the sensor with the one from the old hub that I removed a month ago. Now the light will go out when I turn on the ignition, but it comes back on when driving ... the code is now a C1234 (no signal).

I've read on other posts that you may or may not be able to plug in a sensor from another hub (i.e. there not all 100% interchangable). It has to do with the depth of the sensor.

We'll, Like it or not, I'm gonna have to replace the hub again... YUK...

Let ya'll know how I make out
 






Installed new hub with new wheel speed sensor... cleared the ABS codes... and Voila... Anti-Locks are working again.... sort of sucks that the original sensor only lasted 2 months
 












Yup... Autozone honored the warranty... no issue. The only pain was having to replace the whole darn hub... But now I'm getting pretty good at it (about 90 minutes)...

Wonder if anyone else had issues with the Duralast front wheel hub from Autozone. They're not too expensive ($132)... Maybe I got bit by the "you get what you pay for" syndrome...

There was no obvious physical stress or damage on the sensor wire

Hopefully the failure it was just a fluke....

One last piece of info for folks... I had read on some posts that the ABS light will go out once you fix the problem and turn the ignition off an on again (i.e. the ABS controller runs a test every time you turn on the key and will reset the light when the problem is fixed)... With my '03, this was not the case. After I replaced the hub, I cycled the key a number of times and the light stayed on. I then cleared the code with code scanner and it stayed off (the light has stayed off for a day and the ABS system is clearly functioning... easy to test with all of this snow in New England)... Maybe the light would have eventually cleared on its own after a certain # of driving cycles, but it definately did not clear on it owns after a few on/off cycles of the iginition.

Steve
 












No... they simply swapped out the bad one for a good one...

They did initally say that would not honor the warranty if the wire was damaged, but they didn't even look at the wire when I brought the bad one back... Even so, the wire was in perfect shape.

PS... read my update to the last post regarding the ABS light not going out on its own...
 






ARG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So if you remember, I replaced both front wheel bearings with Autozone Duralast replacements (installed in November 2010). Then, the Right Front wheel sensor went dead in late January (after only 3 months)... I replaced the Right Front and the dreaded ABS light went away..... YEA!!!! or so I thought....

Today (March 6, 2011) the light just came on again... Got my new reader out and guess what... THE LEFT FRONT SENSOR IS NOW DEAD!!!!!... (C1155) what a PITA.

Maybe they should be called "DuraCrap" instead of Duralast. Anyway, I'll do the swap on the left tomorrow. If they go bad again, then I'll replace with Ford OEM (and I'll be very angry with Autozone because I paid $140 each for the Duralast ones)....

Stay tuned :)
 






You should contact Autozone's customer service department, and explain to them what is going on. They might give you a refund if you decide to give the defective replacement parts back to them.
 






Sorry to hear that. Please keep us updated as to the outcome. I'm thinking I may have to do this and am tempted to just go to the dealer.

Good luck!
 






Hi everyone,
I swapped out the left side and the ABS light went right out. Autozone replaced underwarranty... I will, as recommend, try to get a full refund if they fail again. I'll then replace with Ford OEM. Again, just as with the right side, the ABS wire was in perfect shape... I'm really currious as to what is failing...

They're really not hard to replace.... I'm down to under an hour to replace. Just need a torque wrench and the correct size sockets (and a univeral 15mm socket does make getting the 3 bolts off of the bearing a little easier)...

So let's see how long this set lasts
 






2003 mountaineer abs light

did you ever solve the problem?
I fitted the duralast hub 2 weeks ago, and the ABS light comes on and off about every 5 miles.
auto zone said they would replace just the sensor cable, its it worth doing or should i get the ford part and get my money back on the duralast hub?

Please help, not sue what to do.
 






Mine is doing fine now... (knocking on wood and holding my breath). I don't know if you can simply replace the sensor/cable. They was a warning on the hubs that I got from autozone that said the sensor was "matched" to the hub and it said you should not mess with the sensor. When the sensor went bad, I tried swapping with one of the sensors from my original hubs and it didn't work at all. Since the sensor is so easy to replace, I might try that first if Autozone is saying that it's OK to swap out only the sensor (I would ask them about the note that is in the box saying not to do it)...

If replacing the sensor doesnt work, then you're in the same boat I was in... See if you can get a full refund from autozone and go with Ford OEM hubs or get replacements hubs from autozone.
 






ARG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So if you remember, I replaced both front wheel bearings with Autozone Duralast replacements (installed in November 2010). Then, the Right Front wheel sensor went dead in late January (after only 3 months)... I replaced the Right Front and the dreaded ABS light went away..... YEA!!!! or so I thought....

Today (March 6, 2011) the light just came on again... Got my new reader out and guess what... THE LEFT FRONT SENSOR IS NOW DEAD!!!!!... (C1155) what a PITA.

Maybe they should be called "DuraCrap" instead of Duralast. Anyway, I'll do the swap on the left tomorrow. If they go bad again, then I'll replace with Ford OEM (and I'll be very angry with Autozone because I paid $140 each for the Duralast ones)....

Stay tuned :)




ill tell you what. autozone hubs are ####ing ****. i have a story. .....so my original p/s hub takes a royal **** about an hour and a half away from home (145k). destroys rotor, pads and caliper bracket. i go back on the next day (sunday) and my dealership of course isnt open...fix it and all is good and the next week i replace the drivers side for good measure with also a duralast hub (to keep it even) 3 months later i just barely make it home from work because BOTH NEW hubs have taken a **** again. FINE i warranty them and the stupid girl at the autozone was like ""you probably installed them wrong"" i was like listen, im a certified tech at a dealership so its probably **** parts and walked out.....needless to say, WHEN not IF these new(er)? hubs take a dump FORD OE ones will be going back on.
granted im on 9'' of lift and 33's but COME ON, 3 months?? ive been running that setup for 2 years. mine is a 97 but im sure the quality is the same throughout...

hours of slaving away has earned me a rant on duracrap hubs. lol :rolleyes:
 



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This is why I stuck with a OEM wheel bearing assembly. I got it for 170$ shipped from Tousley Ford.

Good luck.
 






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