99 Explorer XL 4.0L OHV - Hard to Start, Rough Idle, Loss of Power, Engine Shake

[remzej]

Hello Good day to All,

I bought a 99 Explorer XL 4.0L OHV engine. For 3 months it run really well until it experienced this symptom. When starting the engine at cold temp it requires about 3 or 5 key turns before it starts. When it starts it will just stall for at least 3 times then the engine will run fine. But when the engine reaches its operating temperature the problem starts. Power loss and when accelerating it feels like there is no fuel.

Here are the parts I already replaced:
- 6 pcs spark plugs
- Fuel Filter
- Ignition Coil Pack
- Upper Intake Gaskets
- Fuel Injector O-Rings
- Fuel Vapor Purge Solenoid

After replacing these parts still the problem exist. So I bought an OBD2 ELM scanner and FORScan application for android phone and scan for possible errors/problems. The scanner results shows fault in EVAPCV_F - Evaporative Emission Canister Purge Fault. What I did was I removed the Fuel Vapor Purge Solenoid and directly connect the fuel vapor line in the intake manifold and test the engine. It starts the engine fast and the idle was also too fast. I checked the Charcoal canister and the EVAP Canister Purge Valve and it surprise me that there is no electrical connected to it or maybe it was designed without electrical connection only the vapor lines were connected.

Anybody can help me solve this problem on my 99 Explorer OHV?

Thanks!

 

[96eb96]

The EVAP system opens after you are driving for a while to suck vapors back in the engine, and it sounds like you have a massive vacuum leak. Maybe try plugging the evap nipple and see how things go? Usually you need a smoke machine to diagnose if you don't see anything obvious. The evap solenoid must have an electrical connector. What else is going to trigger it?

 

[remzej]

The EVAP system opens after you are driving for a while to suck vapors back in the engine, and it sounds like you have a massive vacuum leak. Maybe try plugging the evap nipple and see how things go? Usually you need a smoke machine to diagnose if you don't see anything obvious. The evap solenoid must have an electrical connector. What else is going to trigger it?

Thanks for your reply. I disassembled my upper and lower intake manifold to check the gaskets especially the lower part and looks like the gaskets were damaged. I will try replacing the lower intake gasket and valve gaskets and then test if everything will be back to normal.

 

[96eb96]

Thanks for your reply. I disassembled my upper and lower intake manifold to check the gaskets especially the lower part and looks like the gaskets were damaged. I will try replacing the lower intake gasket and valve gaskets and then test if everything will be back to normal.

Great! Keep up posted. The OHV is definitely worth repairing.

 

[remzej]

Great! Keep up posted. The OHV is definitely worth repairing.

Take a look at these photos. I think and hoping that is this is the cause of the problem. I will be replacing these gaskets if I'm vacant. I already bought Magnum Gaskets MaxDry STL.










upload pictures

 

[remzej]

I will be replacing my old intake manifold gaskets with this one.

 

[lobo411]

They need replacing, and your engine will be a bit peppier with the new gaskets.

The gaskets aren't the cause of your problem, though. You already found one problem--no power to the purge valve. Figure out what happened with the connector. Probably someone unplugged it and (hopefully) tucked it away somewhere, or they cut it off in the hope that this would get rid of the trouble code. At least...long enough to sell the car. ;-)

Anyway, I doubt this is a vacuum leak issue. When you start the car, the computer ignores the sensors and other emissions components until the car is warmed up a bit.

You can't get it started properly, so by definition, the problem is more basic than a leaky intake gasket or an unplugged purge valve. You've got some kind of very basic problem (ie it's not starting because it's not getting fuel, air, or spark, not because it's developing 5% less vacuum than it should).

Have you checked the fuel pressure?

 

[96eb96]

Lets see when you get it back together, make sure you put the RTV on properly. Maybe even go to a better brand RTV like permatex right stuff grey. The only weak point on the engine is leaking coolant from that gasket. Also look in the intake ports for carbon.

lobo may be right about fuel pressure. Turning the key a few times primes the pump and may make it start. When you get it running look at LTFT and STFT, as well as IAC % with forscan. Where did you look for the electrical connector for the EVAP. Isn't the canister under the rear cargo area?

 

[remzej]

Lets see when you get it back together, make sure you put the RTV on properly. Maybe even go to a better brand RTV like permatex right stuff grey. The only weak point on the engine is leaking coolant from that gasket. Also look in the intake ports for carbon.

lobo may be right about fuel pressure. Turning the key a few times primes the pump and may make it start. When you get it running look at LTFT and STFT, as well as IAC % with forscan. Where did you look for the electrical connector for the EVAP. Isn't the canister under the rear cargo area?

This is the EVAP Canister Solenoid under the cargo area. There is no electrical connector attached to it. I tried to locate for disconnected line but there is no such a wire going to it.


I traced the vapor lines and it is going to the front engine area and I found the fuel vapor purge solenoid under the battery area with electrical power attached to it and 2 hoses 1 going to the intake manifold the other going back to the fuel tank.

 

[remzej]

image ru

This is the previous scanned I've done before I dismantled my ex intake manifold.

I already replaced the Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid under the battery that has a electrical power connection and redo the scanning process and the result in forscan was still the same so I decided to dismantle the intake manifold for physical inspection.
I will post updates after rebuilding the intake manifold.

Thanks!

 

[remzej]

windows 7 screen shot

I will be doing a lot of cleaning works in the intake ports because of carbon deposits.

 

[puzzaa]

I don't know if you fixed your problems, but I know that my 00 Explorer had a terrible shaking when going >45MPH, a really low idle (like close to dying), and occasionally had to crank a couple times to start it. I replace the plugs the coil pack and the fuel filter, but nothing. I realized the only thing ignition related that hasn't been replaced was the Ignition wires, they get old and don't supply a good spark sometimes. Picked up some Motorcraft ones for $50 and it fixed most of the problems (still takes a little while to turn over) ! I'm not sure if you have replaced them or not, and I'm not sure if it will solve your other problems, but it definitely fixed the shaking. hope this helps!

 

[remzej]

I don't know if you fixed your problems, but I know that my 00 Explorer had a terrible shaking when going >45MPH, a really low idle (like close to dying), and occasionally had to crank a couple times to start it. I replace the plugs the coil pack and the fuel filter, but nothing. I realized the only thing ignition related that hasn't been replaced was the Ignition wires, they get old and don't supply a good spark sometimes. Picked up some Motorcraft ones for $50 and it fixed most of the problems (still takes a little while to turn over) ! I'm not sure if you have replaced them or not, and I'm not sure if it will solve your other problems, but it definitely fixed the shaking. hope this helps!

Thanks for another tip to try.

I already reassembled my 99 ex and test but the problem still the same. I will try to test the fuel pressure first as what @lobo411 said and the fuel pressure regulator.