Need some help! A double clunk and a bad vibe? No Low Beams, Back Door Locked shut!

[mawrazen]

I finally got my truck to pass NJ inspection but I have developed a loud clunk from the drive train. I can actually hear two clunks. First from the back, then towards the front. At the same time I have a really bad vibration that I was originally blaming on needing the tires balanced. I also have no headlights and a locked back door.

My EX is a 2WD 1994 Ford Explorer with 317K miles on it. A special thanks to all those who have helped me keep my EX on the road over the years! Especially some who are no longer with us. :Heaven:

Has anybody else had these problems?

What should I do?

The loud clunk when accelerating or decelerating: Replace U Joints? This I assume may also cure the vibration I am feeling.

No Low Beams: Replace the light switch and/or the multi-switch. Or just wire a relay off the Parking lights.

Locked door: Take it apart and put it back together again. Try to manually disengage it.

Your input is appreciated! I am considering paying to replace the U Joints and been checking on pricing of installation and parts.

How much will I save by doing it myself and is it worth the effort?

Thanks again for your help and advice!

 

[92exp4x4]

To check the u-joints. its best to remove the driveshft from the truck. With a 2WD, fluid will drain from the trans tailshaft with the slip yoke removed; so keep that in mind.

Move the joint in all its axis. If it binds or is hard to move then its bad, or obviously if its sloppy, its bad. If you remove the cap from the spider (cross) of the u-joint, be careful that you do not loose any of the needle bearings. To change the joints all you need is a good vise and some sockets. They are not bad to do.

Your clunk could also be worn components in the trans or possibly excessive rearend gear backlash. Is the rear noisey? Turn the pinion back and forth with your hand and feel the play. I don't know the exact spec, but it should be less than about 1/16" of movement in its free spot.

As far as your lights, check the obvious first; fuses, bulbs, then you may need to get a diagram for the circuts and see what voltages should be where and check for them acorrdingly. Ford is good about running all kinds of power sources through the multi-function switch, but try to figure the problem out without just tossing parts at your truck.

The hatch, you will need to remove the interior panel and check for binding pushrods, broken latches, etc. Can you grab the lock button and pull on it at all, or is it stuck too? The lock solenoid is probably stuck.

The going rate for service work is about $60 an hour, at least around here. I like to do the work myself, but it depends on your experience level whether you want to try it yourself. I say go for it, if you think you can do it and have the tools. I just happen to be a mechanic by trade so this stuff comes natural to me.

Most importantly, be safe. Use jack stands if under the truck and block the wheels to keep it from moving.