Rear Wheel Bearing: Assembly Substitute?

[BootyDo]

Hi All,

My driver's side rear wheel hub sounds terrible. I'm convince the only thing holding it together is the buildup from years of dirt and grime. I want to take this job on myself, but I see you need a metal press to separate the bearing from the hub. So my question is this: is there another option in purchasing a hub/bearing assembly new and just toss the old components?

TIA!

 

[michael loibl]

You would have to purchase a hub, bearing, and spindle all assembled. The hub presses into the bearing, and then that assembly presses into the spindle. I’ve heard that there is a guy on eBay selling the assemblies for around $400 each side

 

[Explorer_PL]

I buy Timken 516008 bearings, remove the knuckle/hub assembly from the car, remove the parking brake on the bench at home and take it to any repair shop with a press. I pay another 60 for pressing in the new bearing and then put it back on the car.

 

[Partsman109]

I have brand new Ford/Motorcraft rear wheel bearings, hubs, with new snap rings for sale.

Click the link in my signature!

 

[Bill MacLeod]

Unless you wish to invest in a 10-20 ton press, then as PL said, remove the knuckle and take it to shop and have them do it.
To remove the knuckle, you will need a 35 or 36mm axle nut socket and an assortment of 21 and 24mm sockets/wrenches.The 3 bolts attaching the knuckle to the trailing arm have Loctite on them. Use a propane torch to heat the knuckle around the bolts.
Torque specs are 24 lb on the caliper bolts, 203 on the axle nut, lower and upper arms and the knuckle bolts. The bolt through the trailing arm and lower toe link is 259 lb. Sway bar end link is 22 lb and 203 lb if you remove the lower shock bolt.
Just did the right rear so its fresh in my mind. May do the left rear tomorrow. I also used Timken bearings.