Remove ARC

[psykobrat]

Hey all, just got my first explorer. 98 EB AWD 5.0 w/ ARC. Front/driver shock extends, none of the others do. Instead of replacing all of the shocks with OEM, and having to possibly re-run airlines and all, i was looking up ways to convert back to regular suspension. I see a lot of posts about it, but most have a lot of unanswered questions. I found the strutmasters kit but couldn't find any actual reviews on the system, or clear answers if that is truly all you need to convert. Strutmasters claims it is a simply swap, but i think they might be a little biased since it's their system. I was hoping someone here with experience actually used the kit and could give me a heads up if it worked well for them, if anything else is needed, etc.

I understand they probably pulled regular shocks together and branded it themselves, but I'm looking for something simply to get the vehicle on the road and not have to worry about anything falling apart. If anyone here could give me a suggestion if the strutmasters kit isn't good, let me know what parts I'll need. I'll find them and buy them.

Oh BTW, On-road driving, point A to B cruising vehicle, nothing special.

 

[bobflood]

No experience w Explorer, but used Strutmaster kit to replace rear air shocks w springs on my '98 Navigator (which is basically just a tarted-up F150). They fit great and have been in place for several years w no problems. Good luck.

 

[J_C]

All you need to convert is just put regular shocks on. That's it. You might want to unplug the air compressor and there may be some warning light that it's not on but that's not something you wouldn't face with a kit. You'd unplug the ARC module behind the radio, assuming it is there, not relocated on different model years.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/need-opinion-on-shocks-for-95-limited.197305/

If you want coilover (spring on) shock like their kit has then get the Monroe load-adjust, or Gabriel makes some too, about $95 a pair, then standard front shocks. Strutmaster carries monroe shocks so they probably just slapped their sticker on and charged > double for them.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=60655&cc=1119664
https://www.amazon.com/Monroe-58617-Sensa-Trac-Adjusting-Absorber/dp/B000C53RXK

You can get them a little cheaper from Advance Auto parts if you can find a $40 off $100 coupon code which they offer from time to time. They make the ride a bit stiff with extra control, and help correct left-side lean if your leaf springs are weak, but if you're more into a smooth boat like ride then go with regular shocks instead of coilovers. There are several topics about which shocks everyone prefers. I like the KYB Gas-A-Just monotubes, but they may be cheaper elsewhere. https://www.amazon.com/KYB-KG54309-Gas-a-Just-Gas-Shock/dp/B000C44D5C

My links are only examples, check to see if they are the right part # for your vehicle but they fit mine with 4WD.

 

[psykobrat]

Thank you both. I wish the air ride system wasn't such a pain! My pump is fine, the front shocks are okay (although the driver side is higher than the passenger, I can't figure out how to manually let the air out of the shocks to get them level, if anyone knows that, I'm all ears). I guess there's a solenoid for the rear just like the front that opens when that part needs to lift. I don't believe the rear solenoid is opening because there is no air on the shock side of the air hoses, it's possible both hoses are leaking, but I figured the front would rot before both rear sides. Anyone know where that solenoid would be? I found out that the line going to the front goes into something right next to the pump, I'm guessing that's the solenoid for the front?

I've been working on this truck every day after work since I got it last week, some driver window issues, power door locks, hood shocks, all fairly simple stuff. The shocks have me pretty stumped so far.

 

[J_C]

^ I don't know a lot about the air suspension but there's over 100 pages of info and troubleshooting in the following:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...ountaineer-workshop-manual-5567-pages.449520/

 

[psykobrat]

I'll definitely check that out! The Monroe 58617's look good, looks like the same ones Strutmasters have, so i don't doubt they are the same thing, just with their label on it and the price jacked up.

I see some people are saying to replace some springs, the torsion bar, etc HERE & HERE. Also some people are mentioning a 5th shock, i wasn't able to locate that on my vehicle. Is this all something i should be worried about?

Any suggestions for front? Or just any shock will do? I still don't understand having the front adjustable in the 98, i guess that's why they did away with them in 99... I have the "Off Road" switch on the dash, so i'm guessing the purpose was just to lift the front along with the back for off-roading?

 

[98GreenLimited]

J_C hit the nail on the head. When I ditched the ARC in my 98, I installed the Monroe coil over shocks he linked to. This helped lift the ride height in the back, which was very saggy without functional air shocks, and I did the "torsion twist" in the front to level it out. Ride is pretty firm in the rear, but it helps control body sway. Also, you'll be glad you have them if you ever haul something heavy. The only downside is that they seem to be overdamped without a load, which I've only noticed because the rear end can get loose on when going fast on washboard roads. Not 100% sure that is the cause, and you would never notice it in day to day driving.

Some people say the rear crossmember is not designed to support the load these coilover shocks will put on it, but in reality, these will not put significantly more load on the crossmember than the air ride shocks.

I did not replace the front torsion bars, which are softer than what a non-ARC V8 explorer would have got, and I don't plan on it either. The soft front combined with the stiff rear make for a nice ride from the front seats, and surprisingly balanced handling. I don't feel like the front bottoms out too quickly either, but my 31's will occasionally rub at full bump after hitting a large bump. My only regret is not getting Bilsteins instead of Monroe Sensatrac's for the front, but shock choice is a can of worms.

Having said all that, if you're fine with the ride height where it's at, you could probably get away with just replacing all the shocks. Not sure if you would have issues with bottoming out the soft and low suspension, though.

The 5th shock goes from the rear axle to the frame rail to control side to side movement of the axle. It has nothing to do with the air ride, but it is a good idea to replace it when you're replacing the other shocks. It can be hard to find as it is listed as a steering dampener or something, but I got the part numbers below from: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/differential-shock-absorber.354490/
Monroe SC2958
KYB SS10201
Bilstein B36-2135-H0

Yes, the off-road switch only adjusts ride height. It connects to the ARC module, which is behind the radio as J_C said. I took the module out because I was getting an air ride malfunction warning in the information center after ripping out the old shocks, pump, and ride height sensors.

 

[1998Exp]

....
Yes, the off-road switch only adjusts ride height. It connects to the ARC module, which is behind the radio as J_C said. I took the module out because I was getting an air ride malfunction warning in the information center after ripping out the old shocks, pump, and ride height sensors.

The OEM air shocks in the '98 model (and possibly some other years too) have an electrically-controlled valve, which can 'soften' or 'stiffen' the ride. The off-road position of the selector switch, in addition to raising the ride by about 1" also moves that valve to the "stiffen" position. Aftermarket shocks, including those branded Motorcraft (which are just re-labeled and overpriced Monroes) do not have that valve, and no electrical connector for it.

 

[J_C]

I'll definitely check that out! The Monroe 58617's look good, looks like the same ones Strutmasters have, so i don't doubt they are the same thing, just with their label on it and the price jacked up.

I see some people are saying to replace some springs, the torsion bar, etc HERE & HERE. Also some people are mentioning a 5th shock, i wasn't able to locate that on my vehicle. Is this all something i should be worried about?

Any suggestions for front? Or just any shock will do? I still don't understand having the front adjustable in the 98, i guess that's why they did away with them in 99... I have the "Off Road" switch on the dash, so i'm guessing the purpose was just to lift the front along with the back for off-roading?

The minimum you need is 4 standard shocks. If you have rear sag I would get the Monroe coilovers for the rear, OR new springs. You shouldn't need both, it would be a pretty stiff ride with both. My suggestion for the front was the KYB's that I linked previously.

The rest is optional, you'll have to see how you like the ride and if it needs improved in some way.

 

[psykobrat]

Awesome! Thanks for all of the information, just a couple more questions and it's time to make some purchases and modifications.

The 5th shock goes from the rear axle to the frame rail to control side to side movement of the axle. It has nothing to do with the air ride, but it is a good idea to replace it when you're replacing the other shocks. It can be hard to find as it is listed as a steering dampener or something, but I got the part numbers below from: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/differential-shock-absorber.354490/
Monroe SC2958
KYB SS10201
Bilstein B36-2135-H0

I do not believe my vehicle has the 5th shock? I looked underneath and don't remember seeing it, I wonder if mine was removed for some reason, do all of the 98 EB AWD 5.0's with ARC have them? I didn't even remember seeing the mounting brackets. Interesting.

For the rear, I'll pick up the Monroe 58617 from Amazon (prime) or RockAuto, whichever ends up being cheaper after shipping and all. and leave the leaf springs how they are for now.
For the front, does anybody have anything particularly bad to say about any of these: Bilstein Shock Absorber 4600 Series, Monroe 37122 Sensa-Trac, or KYB KG54309. Or should i just go for any one of them? The Bilstein's look quite expensive compared to the others. I don't want TOO firm of a ride, i would like it to be as smooth as possible, again, all on-road daily driving stuff.

I did the "torsion twist" in the front to level it out. ... I did not replace the front torsion bars, which are softer than what a non-ARC V8 explorer would have got, and I don't plan on it either.

What exactly is this "torsion twist"? Recommended / Difficult?

 

[swshawaii]

List of Useful Threads - Shock Suspension Lift Kit Forum's Best Threads | Fo

Should you decide to do the torsion twist, Rancho RS5374 and Monroe 58617 combination has been used with great results.
Rancho RS5374 Front Shock Review | Ford Explorer and Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

 

[98GreenLimited]

I think that all the 5.0 AWD explorers came with the 5th shock. It goes from the front passenger side of the rear diff to the passenger's side frame rail. You might miss it if looking from the rear, especially if there is no shock there... some people say that it doesn't do anything and take it off, but several members have reported that their wives even notice the difference with and without the 5th shock. Take another look, I bet that at least the mounting brackets are still there.

It is a rebound dampener--steering stabilizer. Some here say it makes no difference, however, my wife noticed when ours was removed, and re installed.
I doubt Ford would have installed an expensive part with no result.

Bilsteins will be stiffer than the others. They are high quality and will probably outlast the others, too - hence the price. Sensa-Tracs are great on the street. I like the ride they give on the street on the front of the explorer, and I had them on another car and was pleased with them. They have some sort of variable damping which makes the ride smoother over small bumps and road imperfections, but they stiffen up over big bumps and in corners for better control. I would recommend them for you, for an A to B cruiser. I don't have any experience with the KYBs, so I can't weigh in on those.

See the link above for more detail on the torsion twist. Basically, the explorer doesn't use springs in the front, it uses torsion bars instead. There is an adjustment screw at the end of each torsion bar that allows you to "twist" the bar, which raises the ride height. Extremely easy.

 

[Danmas91]

J_C hit the nail on the head. When I ditched the ARC in my 98, I installed the Monroe coil over shocks he linked to. This helped lift the ride height in the back, which was very saggy without functional air shocks, and I did the "torsion twist" in the front to level it out. Ride is pretty firm in the rear, but it helps control body sway. Also, you'll be glad you have them if you ever haul something heavy. The only downside is that they seem to be overdamped without a load, which I've only noticed because the rear end can get loose on when going fast on washboard roads. Not 100% sure that is the cause, and you would never notice it in day to day driving.

Some people say the rear crossmember is not designed to support the load these coilover shocks will put on it, but in reality, these will not put significantly more load on the crossmember than the air ride shocks.

I did not replace the front torsion bars, which are softer than what a non-ARC V8 explorer would have got, and I don't plan on it either. The soft front combined with the stiff rear make for a nice ride from the front seats, and surprisingly balanced handling. I don't feel like the front bottoms out too quickly either, but my 31's will occasionally rub at full bump after hitting a large bump. My only regret is not getting Bilsteins instead of Monroe Sensatrac's for the front, but shock choice is a can of worms.

Having said all that, if you're fine with the ride height where it's at, you could probably get away with just replacing all the shocks. Not sure if you would have issues with bottoming out the soft and low suspension, though.

The 5th shock goes from the rear axle to the frame rail to control side to side movement of the axle. It has nothing to do with the air ride, but it is a good idea to replace it when you're replacing the other shocks. It can be hard to find as it is listed as a steering dampener or something, but I got the part numbers below from: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/differential-shock-absorber.354490/
Monroe SC2958
KYB SS10201
Bilstein B36-2135-H0

Yes, the off-road switch only adjusts ride height. It connects to the ARC module, which is behind the radio as J_C said. I took the module out because I was getting an air ride malfunction warning in the information center after ripping out the old shocks, pump, and ride height sensors.

Hey mate I have a 2000 xlt with the same problem after putting regular shocks in. I have the cargo area switch off for the arc. But if I turn it back 'On' it turns the light off but the compressor still tries to run. The module behind the radio is that easy to get to? Couple of screws under radio and it all comes out if I can remember? Is it a simple unplug behind radio for the arc module?
Cheers

 

[J_C]

^ I don't have ARC but suspect you could simply unplug the compressor. Whether the light would stay off, I don't know. If it depends on sensing some resistance in the compressor motor or something, then maybe a resistor would take its place and fool it. I'm sure there's some topic on this forum with details about what to do when you convert from air to regular shocks.

The radio comes out with a tool that is basically a pair of U-shaped metal wires that insert into holes on the left and right side of the radio to release tension clips. A picture might help, or you can make your own out of a coat hanger if it's a thick/stiff one.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-7575-Radio-Removal-Tool/dp/B0002SRBJ8

http://bobdavis321.blogspot.com/2011/04/changing-ford-radio.html

If/when prying off the bezel around the radio, (console trim piece, not the actual radio bezel) be careful as there are plastic studs on the back that can get brittle and break off. One or two of mine broke years ago and I epoxied them back on.

 

[Danmas91]

^ I don't have ARC but suspect you could simply unplug the compressor. Whether the light would stay off, I don't know. If it depends on sensing some resistance in the compressor motor or something, then maybe a resistor would take its place and fool it. I'm sure there's some topic on this forum with details about what to do when you convert from air to regular shocks.

The radio comes out with a tool that is basically a pair of U-shaped metal wires that insert into holes on the left and right side of the radio to release tension clips. A picture might help, or you can make your own out of a coat hanger if it's a thick/stiff one.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-7575-Radio-Removal-Tool/dp/B0002SRBJ8

http://bobdavis321.blogspot.com/2011/04/changing-ford-radio.html

If/when prying off the bezel around the radio, (console trim piece, not the actual radio bezel) be careful as there are plastic studs on the back that can get brittle and break off. One or two of mine broke years ago and I epoxied them back on.

Thanks mate. I believe there is a plug in the compressor I can simply take out of it if im not mistaken? Do I need to remove spare tyre to do so?
Cheers

 

[J_C]

^ I don't have ARC so I don't know if it's possible to access it without taking the tire out, but probably not, it is in that area so it might make things a lot easier to do anyway, plus it's good to take it down every now and then so there isn't too much rust built up on the mechanism and to check the air and condition of it.

 

[98GreenLimited]

Hey mate I have a 2000 xlt with the same problem after putting regular shocks in. I have the cargo area switch off for the arc. But if I turn it back 'On' it turns the light off but the compressor still tries to run. The module behind the radio is that easy to get to? Couple of screws under radio and it all comes out if I can remember? Is it a simple unplug behind radio for the arc module?
Cheers

Howdy,
If you're trying to get the dash light or console notification to turn off, you will need to remove the module that is easily accessible behind the radio. I don't remember the exact procedure, but it just 2 or 4 screws and some plastic clips to remove the radio and bezel/trim. Once you have that out, you should have no trouble identifying the ARC module/computer - it is a black box about 4"x6"x1" with a good number of wires going to it in a single connection. Basically it looks like a mini version of an ECU. Unplug it, and maybe zip-tie the harness to something so it isn't flopping around under the dash and you are good to go. Good luck!