8.8 Carrier Changing for Locking...

[Nick26]

Alright I've done a lot of searching on this but have found mixed answers on this so I figured I'd get more recent poll of responses...
I have a limited slip diff and the cheapest locker that I can find for it is the No-Slip which I have heard works great but I am on a tight budget and at $400+ its a little much. So then the other option I have is the Lock-Right, E-Z Locker, or Aussie locker which are all right around $250, and swap in an Open Carrier as long as I won't have to reset the backlash. Some said they didn't have to reset the gears and it worked fine, other say you will most likely need to reset the gears. I've found a few threads where people said they did the swap with out resetting the gears and it worked fine. From what I've read it seems like if replace the shims and bearing caps exactly as they came off then it should work fine. Any one got any input?

Thanks!

 

[boominXplorer]

just get a dial indicator and a shim kit. i got a dial indicator with magnet base from harbor freight for 35$.

 

[Nick26]

and I can do it myself without a press?
I'll look into that, thanks...

 

[boominXplorer]

you will need the press for the abs ring. You might be able to do it with a c-clamp

 

[Nick26]

Yeah I've been looking up how to use the dial indicator and found this one which I guess should be sufficent right?
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=305301&autoview=sku

I've been reading these links among others and just have a few questions...
Dead Link Removed
http://www.corral.net/tech/drivetrain/gears.html

They say to measure this and that but don't really say how... So am I using the magnetic arm to hold the dial's needle in the exact same position so that I can make sure when I reinstall the ring gear it sticks out of the case the exact same distance as before? and If not then I have to sand down or replace the shims?

BTW Sweet burnout vid!

 

[boominXplorer]

thanks i have a thread in the sport truck sections with all my vids.

to measure backlash all you do is place the dial indiator tip on a tooth. Then hold the pinion still and try to turn the ring. you should get a reading between .006 and .009 I beleive. And more or less add shims accordingly. I'll have a writeup in about 2 weeks on a few swaps including mine

 

[Nick26]

Ohhh ok that makes a lot more sense now... thanks!

Looks like those writeups will be just in time, I'll be looking out for them... Did you do a re-gear I guess? Did I read you were converting yours to 2WD?

 

[boominXplorer]

yeah I am going to 2wd and swapping to 4:11's from 3:73's. I am doing most of it next week as its getting some bodywork also. Need some 4wd parts? I'll probibly do a writeup on removal and replacing the front gears also beacause i'll have the pig in the garage and I need to make sure its in top shape before its sold. If you want I can PM you my phone number so when you do the gears if you get stuck you can give me a ring. But by my rear right-up I will possibly make very detailed (unless its cold) you shouldn't have a problem

 

[RockRanger]

the two times I have swapped carriers in axles i lucked out and was able to get a good gear pattern and good backlash. Once was in my old 7.5 rear axle and the other was in RangerX dana 35.

When rangerX and I need needed bearings pressed on to the new carrier we went to an auto shop and they pressed them on for pretty cheap.

Im not sure what you mean when you say sand down the shims. If you take .002 of an inch off one side you have to add it to the other side. in addition to backlash make sure you check the pattern as well. Randys ring and pinion have a pretty good general write up on swaping gears and that should help you understand it.

 

[Nick26]

just got one for $10 plus another $10 for shipping and handling. not too bad, now I just have to decide on a locker...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7966287856

 

[j602]

I'm interested in to how this turns out, as I want to do the same thing. I thought you had to reset the backlash etc every time you removed the gears. Another cost effective way of locking the rear is to just to weld the spider gears.

 

[Nick26]

well i am only removing the ring gear...

 

[boominXplorer]

if he re-uses the original carrier and puts the shims on the right side that they come out he wont have a problem. Now if there is a carrier change then re-shimming is nessicary.

 

[Nick26]

thanks i have a thread in the sport truck sections with all my vids.

to measure backlash all you do is place the dial indiator tip on a tooth. Then hold the pinion still and try to turn the ring. you should get a reading between .006 and .009 I beleive. And more or less add shims accordingly. I'll have a writeup in about 2 weeks on a few swaps including mine

hey boomin did you ever do this writeup? if so do you have a link?

 

[Creager]

try this write up http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1200769&postcount=14

If you are putting new bearings on a different carrier then its very possible you will have to reset the backlash. You will need a press for the carrier bearings, but you should be fine using the ones that are already on the carrier that you pull out of a donor rear end. You can have the bearings pressed on for you if you buy the carrier from a shop. With the 8.8 you can press the carrier bearings on before you actually get to setting up your differential.

You shouldnt need a press for anything but the bearings. If you cant get the ring gear or the ABS gear to just slide on, then it would be unwise to press or force them on. Reason being: warping. The best method would to let your carrier sit in the freezer over night. Then when you are ready to install the ring gear and/or ABS ring, use your kitchen oven to get these parts at 300 degrees. Let them sit in the oven for 2-3 hours. This will make it a sure slip fit.

You want to check your backlash before you take the carrier out the differential. It would also be good to check the runout of the ring gear while its in there. This way you can determine that the gear is infact still good and free from warping. This makes it easier when you get to setting everything back up. You try to get the dial indicator as prepecdicular to the tooth as humanly possible. You are measuring that slop distance between when the ring gear and the pinion gear.

If you replace the bearings, make sure you replace the races too.

 

[Nick26]

great info, thanks alot, I'll let you knwo how it goes... I got the diff drained and axleshafts out so far.... im waiting on a dial indicator to be shipped to me before i go any further...

 

[Creager]

great info, thanks alot, I'll let you knwo how it goes... I got the diff drained and axleshafts out so far.... im waiting on a dial indicator to be shipped to me before i go any further...

did you get the base with it?

If you have to get some shims, search around. There are companies that sell shims that are in more natural sizes (IE. .001, .002, .003, .005, .006, .007... ect...) Most shim kits come in sizes like .002, .005, .010, .015, .030...

 

[Nick26]

did you get the base with it?

If you have to get some shims, search around. There are companies that sell shims that are in more natural sizes (IE. .001, .002, .003, .005, .006, .007... ect...) Most shim kits come in sizes like .002, .005, .010, .015, .030...

yeah it has a magnetic base.... this is the one I picked up... http://store.summitracing.com/partd...art=SUM-900016&autoview=sku&Ntk=KeywordSearch

 

[Nick26]

Ok so i got the base now and took some measurements...
Looks like its a difference of .012 which is a lot more than someone else was suggesting the amount should be.... Could it just be because theres 100K+ miles on this rear end?

heres how I set it up:

 

[Nick26]

Then i hit another hold up cause the aussie locker kit i got had a wrong part, the axle gears did not match.... They were really helpful though and sent me another one asap. Infact i got it today and only called on monday.

The wrong one on the left and correct one on the right: