Camshaft Position Sensor

[GeorgeR]

'96 4dr,2wd,5.0 V/8 XLT

I have read the search archives and while there is very good info there, I am still somewhat confused about this sensor.

Does the cam sensor ride on top of the synchro??
Can I replace the sensor only as long as I don't move anything like the synchro and not have to worry about #1tdc and other stuff related to the removal of the synchro.
I'm trying to be logical here but I'm not sure.
It looks to me like I can make a plain and simple swap, (remove old SENSOR, install new SENSOR) No special tool or worry about timing etc.??
BTW, I am getting a PO340 DTC with CEL, but it runs well.
Thanks GR

 

[chriswells78]

Yes the sensor rides on top of the synchro.

You can replace the sensor alone without worring about the position provided you have the correct sensor. The computer will pick up the postion of the cam by where the "stator" is.

 

[GeorgeR]

The sensor looks just like the picture that Advance Auto has on their site. A connector with a couple of wires and two small bolts/screws into the whatever that hold it into place.
The scanner reads; PO340. Camshaft Position Sensor. [A] Circuit (Bank 1/Sensor) 1/1
I 'think' that replacing the 'sensor' should clear that code since it is referring specifically to the 'sensor'. No misfire etc.
Am I on the right track??
Thanks
GR

 

[Turdle]

Yes George you are. Let us know how it turns out.

 

[Mikeri]

Very easy to swap out just the Cam Pos Sensor. 2 screws, unplug. Now, this is important. The sensor sits on top of the Cam Synchronizer Gear. There should be a vane/stator on the top of the Cam Syn Gear. When the engine rotates, the Cam Sny gear rotates, and its the vane/stator that contacts the metal part in the Cam Pos Sensor, telling the computer when the engine is at top dead center. Look at the metal part on the Cam Pos Sensor. Is it destroyed? Look at the vane/stator. Is it destroyed? If the latter is destroyed, you will have to replaced the Cam Syn Gear also as there is no vane/stator to contact the sensor. My 98 has a semi circular vane/stator. I know the 99 has a thin vertical vane/sensor. So, look for a picture of the Cam Syn Gear for your year so you can tell if the vane/stator is OK. Good luck.

 

[GeorgeR]

Verry interesting! Anyone have any idea where I might obtain a pic of both the top of the syncro gear and the proper sensor for a '96??
If not I'll have ot wing it until I get the old one off. The new sensor I got just has a straight contact about 3/8" wide more or less in the center of the plastic case, and a 3 contact receptacle with two hold down screws. It looks like the original, but I can't see under the thing until tomorrow.
Thanks GR

 

[chriswells78]

My 96 and 98 syncro's were identical, the stamped part numbers were the same. The pics in the Hanes manual are the earlier like this too.

 

[Mikeri]

Click this post for a pic. Note the semi circular shape of the vane/stator on the top of the Cam Sny Gear.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142851&page=13

 

[Turdle]

Sensor-synchronizer - tool

Tool and stator

Tool installed on aligned stator-sychronizer

 

[GeorgeR]

Fantastic! With any luck and with the super help from you guys, I will have this done this morning. I am hoping that all I need to do is to; remove the coil packs for access 2, remove the two screws in the top of the sensor,3, disconnect the elec 4, gently remove the sensor, 5, carefully install the new sensor and button it up. Sound right?? I am assuming that the sensor is the item on the lower left of the synchro of the pic????
I am assuming at this point that there is at least some tension on the synchro and that it won't turn as long as the gear is engaged??

Thanks so much GR

 

[chriswells78]

If the gear is engaged it shouldn't turn at all and slop should be minimal to non-existant.

 

[GeorgeR]

Yep, well I just pulled the old sensor off and the vane or whatever is supposed to be in the middle is gone and the pickup has broken off the sensor cap. I can't get a new synchro until next week so they tell me, so I'm going to put it all back together and keep driving it until then. (it it will run) My theory is that it was running before so it should run when I put it back together. All I did was clean a bunch of scrap plastic and a little metal out of it.
Thanks

 

[GeorgeR]

Well here is the latest; I put it all back together with the old sensor back in place. The new sensor has a metal contact in the approximate center of the cap. It looks sort of like the contact on a rotor in the old distributor type engines. This was broken off or worn off, anyway it came out in my hand. Also present were several small pieces of plastic. There was no sign of the semi circular vane in the top of the shaft. I just thought about taking a picture after I put it all back together.
It runs well except its a little rough at idle when it's cold.
Idle is about 650/700 rpm which is where I prefer it. I'm not sure that I have the right sensor at this point. It doesn't have a corresponding fin like the shaft in the picture. But it's just like the Advance product pix. Any guesses.
It hasn't thrown a cam sensor code again yet but that may come later when I run it again. I might add that I've had the cam sensor code since I bought the truck a year ago.
What do you think??
Thanks GR

 

[Mikeri]

Exact same thing happened to me. The code will return with 2 cycles of start. I ran my 98 locally for a couple of months with no problems. I finally got around to putting in the Dorman part, which came with the Cam Pos Sensor, Cam Snyc Gear and the Adjustment Tool. Since the vane/stator is gone, there are no shortcuts. You must find top dead center to do the swap. After you find TDC, scribe the the top of the engine and back of the Cam Snyc Gear. You will want to put the new CSG back in identically. Also, there is the intermediate oil shaft which goes into the bottom of the shaft on the CSG. So when you pull out the CSG, you will see the Intermediate Oil shaft. When you are putting the new CSG in, put on the Adjustment tool. This holds the vane/stator in place at TDC as you work the CSG back into place. You will of course have to move the packs to get this done. LUbe the new CSG well before installing. Draw a pic of the spark plug wires. You can do it.

 

[GeorgeR]

Well, it looks as if obtaining an alignment tool is going to be the most difficult part of this exercise. Anyone have a good source, also does anyone know for sure if the V6 tool is the same as the v8
It looks the same part no from what I saw in one catalogue.
Thanks GR

 

[GeorgeR]

Does anyone know what/where ESE-M2C123-A oil or grease is??
One eng sheet I saw calls for this stuff for a prelube on the synchro gear when changing it out.

 

[chriswells78]

for the tool, I got mine at www.etoolcart.com

I'm not sure what that oil is, I soaked the whole assembly in synthetic motor oil with the rest of my internal parts for 24 hours prior to my engine assembly.

 

[Turdle]

http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3878

Chris, is this the number of the tool?

The number sounds right-but the picture looks incorrect-

could you list the tool number of yours?

 

[GeorgeR]

http://www.autorepairmanuals.biz/site/573683/product/OTC6469
This page shows the under side of the tool and is the only one I havea been able to find with a picture. The OTC stock # is correct as far as I know. (6469) The chart at the bottom of the page shows most of the V type engines using the same tool #.
That has been one of my main questions, interchangeability between engine sizes etc.

Also; the Advance, Parts america cat pic shows a sensor (I think) comes with the synchro, but doesn't show a tool.
The local advance store has another listing for more money which may include the tool, but I haven't seen it yet.
The plot thickens, more confusion! LOL

 

[GeorgeR]

I should restate that; the aforementioned page shows the tool for the '96/98 Expl, Mount, and Mustang. I hope to get it right before I spend any money.