Matt's '92/'99 4X4 V8/4R70W swap!

[seth247]

that's what I'm saying. This engine was mishandled.

Pushrods all have uneven wear in the ends and are cacked with thick varnish. Lifters are the same. Probably clogged with roasted oil.

Pistons are trashed. I'm NOT putting those things back in the engine.

Rods and crank spear to be in good shape cept for the thick varnish and the whole engine Smells sickly sweet with burned rancid oil.


Ok don I'll shoot for 9.5-9.7 in the end. Thanks for the info.

The future boost plans are more of a wet dream than anything. I'm sure once I get the engine in and feel how much new Power I have to play with I'll be able to put off the boost until I have a car that is resonably designed for that kind if speed, like a mustang.

Thanks again all for your advice so far.

 

[seth247]

question: what was the standard compression ration on this engine?

 

[seth247]

More Progress Pics!!

heres as far as i got last night,

check out these rod and mains bearings. kinda uneven on the wear.

gotta new torque wrench.

with analog setting display window.

^^^^^^A must have for any engine maintenance.^^^^^^^


And a representation of possible future plans for engine.

the block is stripped, ready for machinist who ill be talking to tomorrow.

the crank looks fine but those bearings scare me. those weren't even the worst ones i just picked up the ones closest and took the pics.

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

Man, you're getting serious about this. That's good to see!

If you keep on with all the pictures and details, I'm thinking this'll be a sticky in the future, especially when someone asks "Can I do a V8?"

Good job so far though.

-Josh

 

[seth247]

thanks josh.

Took the block heads and crank to Action Machine today.
He'll work on cleaning it up and then well talk on Monday as to weather this block is in good condition and what we need to do to it.


This is the part were everything slows down. Waiting on me for money or him for work.


I has no credit cardz so the cash outflow has to match the inflow.

 

[seth247]

im starting to wish i HAD gotton the wrong year heads.

finding ones that fit the "p" style heads is a pain.

check these out, does anybody think these stick out too far into the steering sector area?

these are designed to fit the "p" heads into a foxbody. there only 250$ but i think they may be too wide and it looks like the drivers side flange is pointing right into the brake booster, or possibly the firewall.

hhhmmmmmm.

 

[seth247]

I found that the stock compression was 9.0:1

But from the pistons I've looked at you could get that low a compresion only from dishes pistons.


The ones I took out were flat top with small valve reliefs.

Perhaps these pistons are aftermarket?...

 

[CDW6212R]

Those looked like the stock pistons, they are basically flat tops. The bearings look normal for a used engine. That's what the full balancing and blue printing is for, to have the bearings run more true and evenly. The block and crank will be good to use, unless magnafluxing turns up something odd.

I'd go with the header examples of other 1st gen 302 guys, they will know what is out there. The normal car stuff isn't going to work for the narrow frame of the Explorer.

 

[seth247]

I don't mean to sound stupid but where do you suggest I look for the other swap threads.


No matter what I put in the search bar all I come up with is jamies bronco 2 conversion.

And as informative as that thread is, I don't want to spend 600+$ on the torque monsters.



Unless of course, jamie fells like selling me his for dirt cheap..............

 

[CDW6212R]

I have not looked myself, but here's a link or two, these list for a Bronco II;
http://www.landlproducts.com/list.aspx?Mode=List&cID=2&scID=107 $459
http://www.jamesduff.com/broncoII/engine.html $239
http://www.mre-books.com/ranger/mounts.html

I also didn't find anything using "Explorer" as a search term. Hopefully some or all of the Bronco II headers can work. Make note that one did say that they wouldn't work witrh GT40P heads.

You need to find headers before starting on any head work. You may need to use normal Ford heads like the GT40's, so that the plug wires don't interfere with the headers.

 

[seth247]

I've been on landl and James duffs sites and I own the mre conversion manual.

I was gonna buy James duffs headers until I realized the p's are special.

I'll weld my own headers before I go to different heads.

Or use the Cast manifolds. There not terrible.

 

[seth247]

magnafluxing has revealed no cracks in block or heads.
Forgot to ask about the crank.


I've been looking at scat forged I beam rods and speed pro pistons.


Question: how is it that forged alluminum pistons cost damn near or even more than a forged crank?!?!?!

 

[CDW6212R]

Pistons and rods are weaker links than a crankshaft. Piston prices have gone up a lot, but they are also much lighter than they used to be. What kind of prices did you find, and were any of them different lengths than stock?

 

[seth247]

cheapest set of forged pistons I felt comfortable with was a 380$ set of keith blacks

I found the rods I want nice set of scat i beam forgings.

I just looked at the stock length pistons. I think.

Do you mean as opposed to shorter stroker style pistons? What would be the benifits of looking at those?

Unless you mean to use a longer rod. I've heard that can boost power output.

 

[CDW6212R]

...
Unless you mean to use a longer rod. I've heard that can boost power output.

Yes, my thought is that for the cost of new rods/pistons, is a long rod(short piston) combination available.

The stock pistons are very tall and heavy. Strokers are rather easy/possible by shortening the height of the piston. I don't think any huge performance would come from a longer rod and shorter piston based on weight.

Most of the gain there is from the longer ratio of rod length to stroke. Don't spend a lot of time hunting for an odd rod/piston combo. If it is commonly available for almost the same cost, then it may be a good idea. This is just minor stuff but details that can be helpful. I only mentioned it in case the aftermarket parts are out there and cost almost the same. If it's a common 302 combination, then just look at the price and make sure that the total length of rod/piston and bearing sizes are the same.

I should have hunted for them before mentioning it. If they aren't there then skip the thought.

 

[seth247]

A few pics from at the machinist.

heads look bran spankin' new and the block looks much better.

the heads are warped slightly from heat, which is fairly unavoidable, unless your rebuilding a new engine.

hes going to mill the heads, block and true everything up, check bore line and correct as necisary, remove the demonic intake bolt for me, go through the heads and check the valve seats and recut'em and press in the cam bearings for me. and press in the piston pins when i get around to ordering them.


im going to get these rods;

link to the page is HERE

And these pistons maybe;

Link is Here

Can anyone tell me the approximate comp ration with these +11 cc pistons? im no good with the CR calculators

thanks guys.

 

[CDW6212R]

Here is a set of headers that a member on the RPS forum has for his 92 Ranger. They call for Rangers and Bronco II's till 1990. You might call Hooker and see if they know more about fitment into the later years or the Explorers. Those have 1.625" primaries and long tubes, big positives if they would fit.

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...2HKR&N=700+4294907827+400390+115&autoview=sku

 

[seth247]

I cannot see a picture Or link or anything...



holy heck I just saw I've got 1000 posts!

Were are the balloons and cake?!?!?

 

[CDW6212R]

Whoops, I copied the link but didn't paste it into the message. Here is the other ceramic coated version, $150 more at $690. Ouch,
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...1HKR&N=700+4294907827+400390+115&autoview=sku

 

[seth247]

those look good but for that money I'd rather go for the torque monsters.

I'm gonna buy some summit headers that look prommising and if they don't work I'm only out 100$.