Matt's '92/'99 4X4 V8/4R70W swap!

Vehicle: 1992 forest green Ford Explorer 4X4

(<Frikin Sweet)

Drivetrain: '99 GT-40P 5.0(4.9)L 302----4R70W Automatic

Well i got my engine so i guess its time to start a project thread! The timeline on this is pretty loose. but as soon as possible cause the ole 4.0 is making wierd noises.

EDIT: DO NOT be STUPID like me! Don't get a 2wd drivetrain to go into a 4wd vehicle! The transmission output shaft length is different and will require a full trans teardown to retrofit. Luckily one of the other awesome members of the forum has the parts I need to convert. But you may not be so lucky. I doubt most junkyards would sell you Just the shaft and housing. Would rather you buy the whole transmission.

Plans:
Full teardown and rebuild
Keeping the gt-40's
New gaskets,pistons,cam,bearings,lifters, the works.
Maybe new crank
maybe strokin it
build for future forced induction
Transfer case: Hhhhhhmmmmmmm... maybe bw1354(dont wanna) or 4406 if i can fit it between the frame rails
plans will definitely evolve as we go along

here the pics

cant wait to get this thing runnin!

 

[TACO626]

You can do it that way or just remove the rod nuts and push em' upward - lube always works

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

You can do it that way or just remove the rod nuts and push em' upward - lube always works

I can't even begin to describe how hard I just laughed after getting this in a subscription update.. lol

 

[seth247]

:chuckelol:

 

[Turdle]

wrap the rods with duct tape-and push the pistons up to get them out.

 

[seth247]

Will do.

 

[seth247]

need to know quick!
Will an internally balanced cranckshaft work with the stock damper? Could the damper be machined to a nuerral balance?

I'm thinking no.

 

[Turdle]

It depends on the machine shop-some will, some won't.
Whiever option you pursue, I would do it with a new balancer and pulley, for several reasons. Just take my word for it, because it gets complicated.



Don has a new custom pulley.

You are now covering the first hurdle.

 

[CDW6212R]

need to know quick!
Will an internally balanced cranckshaft work with the stock damper? Could the damper be machined to a nuerral balance?

I'm thinking no.

Are you still teasing yourself with aftermarket engine parts? You can solve that easily with a budget. If you need to ask us what the real costs are, you won't like the answer though.

 

[seth247]

found a forged 302 eagle crank but it's internally balanced and they don't have any 50oz offset models.

I'm not thinking of stroking this motor anymore. Unless some kind if rediculous cheap deal comes along but I do want to run some boost in it sooner or later.

And would like the forged insurance.

 

[seth247]

so would I have to drill some holes in the balancer a d weld some mallory metal int the crank to make it work or what?

It's an eagle crank for 200$! Dirt cheap.

Might even be cheaper to do that than to get a correct ballance crank....

 

[seth247]

???

 

[CDW6212R]

I'd pass on the crank, it's not a weak link at all. Ford's strongest engine parts have been the cranks, of which virtually none have been forged. Bob Glidden ran stock Cleveland cranks in his 9500 Pro Stock cars. Those were all nodular iron cranks.

The weak links of the 302 are the pistons, rod bolts, rods, and the block. For boost or nitrous the pistons and rod bolts should not be stock. That you can take care of in a normal rebuild. Before you reach the limits of the block in a 302 you should be eying better rods also. I don't know how often 302 rods and pistons turn up but it sounds like those should be your main items to hunt for beyond what you have.

Stock pistons are always very heavy compared to aftermarket, and most are not forged. Rods are not really expensive now for how advanced they are and how custom sizes are available. Stock rods will do most of the time if power doesn't get too high, the tune is always perfect, and good money is spent at the machine shop. For what you can spend on stock rod work, it's almost a good deal to find aftermarket rods. I just have not priced any. I know a couple of members that could give a good idea of pricing.

 

[seth247]

thank you I will follow your advice and gets me some new stuff.

 

[seth247]

don do you know of anything I could have done to the crank?

Will DEFINATLEY have it magnafluxed.

Champher the oil holes? Shot peened? Nitrided?

The rod bearings were all cloudy when I removed them. Have the crank bearing surfaces turned?

 

[Turdle]

to be honest-
from the questions you ask-IMO
I would go with the engine builders recommendations and have him build the engine.
Don't be embarrassed by this-I did.

I just looked at my shop, and the processes involved and decided a professional racing engine builder was my best bet. Now I have a daily driver-

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, it's important to find a machinist who you feel comfortable with. The right one will know all about what can be done, it will then be up to you to work with them to do what's best. Spend time finding the machinist, and speaking with them about the goals.

You need to start with a crank which matches the balance of the dampener and flexplate. A zero balance forged crank would be nice to have, if a balancer was available. That's why the 50oz. stock piece is a problem, it's extremely difficult to balance most aftermarket cranks to match that(if they are zero or 28oz).

The stock block when built right is good enough for most milder boost use, you will hear numbers like 400-500hp.

See what you can find for pistons, you may have to settle for stock dimension $250 stuff. If you could find aftermarket parts, you can specify a compression ratio. The stock ratio is good for any boost. If it's pushed up in the 9.5 range then you gain more power across all rpm's, but that basically requires a custom cam.

If your budget is rather tight, then you should stay somewhat close to the stock compression. That lets you use the stock cam or many milder selected cams, with minor tuning needs. If you want to go up a level, the cost jumps fast for the rods/pistons, custom cam, and tuning. You end up having to have things that aren't mandatory for a stockish 302.

It does all come down to a budget, that will decide what is not possible yet.

 

[seth247]

Already found the machinist.

I'm not asking the questions because I don't know, I'm asking cause there Is a 100% chance I could be completely wrong.





And cause I'm bored.

 

[CDW6212R]

Okay you've found a machinist, what is the budget? The machine work should be $300-500 depending on who/where/what is done. Beyond that and say $500 more for little stuff not planned for yet, how much is going into the engine? If you spend less than $500 more than you need to stay with almost all stock parts(not pistons or rod bolts). If you can go $1500 more than you can entertain ideas of better rods etc, or heads, or possibly a custom cam.

 

[seth247]

There is no budget.

Rods and pistons have been planned for.

As well as Lifters, pushrods, rockers, maybe valves once I get a look at them.

Everything in this engine has a good coat of varnish. Engine was not cared for. Won't reuse most of it.

Want to shoot for 9.5-10:1 compression.

Still haven't picked a cam yet.

Was looking at the e-303 or possibly the x.

 

[CDW6212R]

Unless the mileage is really high, the lifters can be used again, or find a low mileage set, or cheap new set. It's not a bad idea to buy good pushrods, but the stockers are fine for stock rebuilds. Skip roller rockers until the very end and you have $250 to spare. They are worth less than 5hp, those are really more for accuracy of ratio, the stock parts do fine there.

9.7 - 9.8:1 was suggested to me as a safe limit to be able to still add mild boost. If you do add boost then I'd pick a cam myself and live with it(good or bad), and get a custom cam when the boost is added. Understand that changing just the camshaft is huge job in the truck, the radiator, grille and AC condenser have to come out.