91exploderdude SAS | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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91exploderdude SAS

Hi I dont post much but I am a religious reader to the site and I am very grateful for all the info I have got from here. I went and bought my jeep wagoneer axle yesterday and am going to start getting everything I need to do my swap. I have a 91 explorer with the stupidlift 5.5" lift. So the back should be fine to run 35s with the SOA. I had a few questions before I started spending my money.

To do the SOA on the front do I have to run hi-steer to clear the leafs?

What leafs should I run as this will be daily driver and weekend warrior to clear the 35s?

Is there a specific rim size or backspacing I should run to make everything work right?

I have read alot but these seem to be a few things I couldnt find answers for. O yeah just to add Im not just blowing smoke here and thinking about this I am tired of dealing with the TTB and will be excited when time comes to rip it out. haha thanks for the help before hand.
 



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Why leafs and not coils?
 






For simplicity reasons mainly since its gunna be a dailydriver and it will be easier to set up since it will be driven on the road. It being my first swap I dont feel confident to set up a coil system.
 






Coils are way easier on a 1st Gen
 






I suggest you find and read RockRanger's SAS project thread. He also used a waggy axle with leaf springs. He went thru all the same questions you're having.
 






As rangerX said I have been there done that. Do coils from the start. I have a waggy axle under my 93 ranger.

To answer your questions

1. Hi steer is almost without a doubt neccesary if you go with leafs. To do it right you need it. You can half ass it with out but if you plan to DD then you need histeer with leafs. Cost me about $400 to get the stuff I needed.

2. I ran 5 leaf YJ springs with a ranger main cut to be the second leaf and the shortest removed. It flexed great off road but was soft on road. Also had alot of axlewrap on looses climbs.

3. I ran 4.5" back space 16x8 rims with 35"s they would rub on the springs. I have now switched to a 3 link coil setup and rubbed a bit less but added wheel spacers on the front.

I took the leafs off and did a 3 link front setup now. I use skyjacker 8" lift xj coils now. It is a bit soft on the highway but kicks the crap out of the other setup every way you look at. It works way better. In the overall thing the cost difference is not very much.

Here is my buildup. Lots of BS but alot of tech mixed in as well.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125858&highlight=rockraNGER
 












Alright guys thanks for the help. Now I'm confused on what to do haha. I thought I had done my research and had it all figured out on goin to leafs and just had some small questions but now I guess I got some decisions to make.
 






Also look at 90ranjo build up thread. We built his setup almost exactly like mine as far as links go. He used coil overs and a full width axle though. It could just as easily been done with coils and a waggy axle.
 






I just got done putting new bearings, seals, rotors, and pads on my dana 44 and was wondering what hubs do I buy to convert my hubs to locking or if there is some i can grab off another a vehicle at a junkyard?


I have found the hubs on the internet but some say I need a kit and some don't so I was just wondering if someone could help me out with this.
 






I am just using hubs off a TTB f 150 from the junkyard.

What are you doing for the lug pattern?
 






I was just going to leave it the same since I have to change rims anyway and buy the adapters for the back that should put pretty close to same width. I didnt know if there was any advantages with going to another bolt pattern or not.

Also I found a flat top knuckle on craigslist off a chevy that I thought about buying but will this work with mine or should I just go ahead annd buy new one that is already ready to go and I dont have to mess with the chevy one to make it work?
 






Chevy knuckles will fit. Be careful cause some people say "histeer knuckle" but it really is not. Once I got my knuckles I paid I thing $50 to have the passenger one machined for histeer. If you go with links you do not NEED histeer. It helps only in that you can get the track bar higher and flatter. This improves offroad handling. However the mounts need to be beefed up as well cause they become longer.


For what it is worth here is my setup.

Wagonner housing with factory inner and outer shafts.
Chevy flatop knuckles.
early 70 chevy small bearing spindles
TTB f150 roters hubs wheel bearings and seals
TTB f150 factory locking hubs.

This got me 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern. Then I used spacers in the rear to change the bolt pattern.

I went away from the 6 on 5.5 cause I did not want to use the two piece rear wheel adapters that I found. Plus they were kind of pricey. If I were to do it again I would contact some after market axle shaft companies and see if I could get custom rear shafts with a 6 on 5.5 bolt pattern. Plus you also get stronger rear axle shafts.
 






I have decided to go leaf spring. I know you guys are tellen me not to but I really like how rustenutz turned out. So I think I'm going to go in that direction. So do I just need one knuckle for the passenger side and will all the wagoneer parts fit back on that knuckle once I swap it out.
 






I used both chevy truck knuckles. If I remember right the tierod holes are at different heights. You can put all your stuff on the chevy knuckles.

I would say coils can flex decent without the drawback of a bad approach angle.

028.jpg
 






Planning to start the swap next weekend if I get all the parts figured out. The main thing I'm looking for right now is tires and rims so I can set up the ride height. It wouldnt be so hard if I had the money to buy new but I'm trying to buy used so its hard finding a good set. Once I start chopping it up I will start posting some pictures.
 






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