Front body mounts?

[storlied]

Going to be doing a 3" BL here soon.. I know I'm gonna have some issues with the front mounts.. what kind of risks are there with installing the lift, but keeping the front ones out until I can get the bushing off the bolt? I've seen that others had to do this also for a little bit... it'll be like this: [Temporarily of course]

 

[jhclance]

I am no expert but that looks like a BADDD idea. Why not goahead and do what you gotta do to complete the lift

 

[storlied]

Very time limited and these seem like they're the only thing that are gonna crop up some problems.. was just curious. Just thought it might be practical for a lil bit as once the top bolts are removed the body is good to be lifted. The rest of these mounts shouldn't be too much trouble. Anywhere I could just cut to get this sucker out n ready to drill? Maybe I might just have to destroy it and buy new bushings? I don't know..

I've got quite a bit of info from the forum for referencing.. might try to attack this tomorrow if I can get access to this garage. Just looking for an easy way to deal with these or if I could put them off for a little bit.. seems like these two take up a Ton of time.. so yeah.. a quick install would be nice until I can get to the minor things, bumpers, these mounts, ect.. few other random things..

Almost seems like these front two would have the lightest load from the body anyways.. but I could be wrong.. so I asked.

Might have to go this route: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=284834

But if for whatever reason we can't get these in time, just wanted to know the risks. Body damage possibly? Anything bend? ect

Even tips on these bolts will be nice, like any short cuts people used.. even if it meant cutting.

 

[jhclance]

So do I understand correctly that you do not have yours apart yet ? With the front not supported by the body-lift it seems to me that there will be an increased amount of load/stress on the body at the second set of body-bushings. I would be afraid of over stressing the body and it twisting or bending somewhere. I aint done it yet but all I can say is I would be prepared to complete the job or have another ride. Mabe soak the suspects in PB Blaster for a day or two, the viberations of driving and the heating up/cooling down will help work it into the cracks and maybe eleminate any possible problems for you.

 

[storlied]

Yeah probably better not to risk it, I just noticed reference to it by 1st gen owners and they didn't report anything bad.. but yeah.. the risk is still there and good point about the 2nd set of mounts and stress.

 

[jhclance]

The pipe wrench looks like a very do-able way to convience them to co-operate heat may be a possibility tho it will destroy any rubber on its other side.

 

[Paraphoe]

My suggestion would be to do it once, start to finish. I understand the lack of time, believe me, but nothing is worth doing if you don't do it right. Not only will there be added stress on the body, but also on the lift pucks, which aren't designed for that. If you're really that worried about these two mounts, do as I mentioned in the PMs I sent you (and as JH said above) - go out in the days and weeks leading up to the lift and soak the hell out them with PB blaster. Knock on 'em with a sledge, hit 'em with a torch. Do everything to loosen them up. You can even get it to the point where you break them free and then re-tighten them so you know that on the day of the body lift they're gonna come right out. Keep us posted.

 

[Paraphoe]

The pipe wrench looks like a very do-able way to convience them to co-operate heat may be a possibility tho it will destroy any rubber on its other side.

If you heat just the bolt head you should be fine. And yep, a pipe wrench is a necessity to keep the entire bushing from spinning. You need to lock it in place with the wrench.

 

[storlied]

Small issue... uhm.. lost a socket in the hole where the body bolt is under the rear seat flap... it's in there somewhere... is it gonna be gone forever?... -_-'' I don't really want a socket rattling every time I move the truck.. lol..

 

[jhclance]

maybe be able to get it out using a magnet on a wand type thing,long skinny flexable shaft with a marble sized magnet made onto the end. Really depends on how far it was able to roll after droped.

 

[kstrayhorn]

yeah, magnet's your best bet. If you can't get it out, I wouldn't worry too much. I lost a screw down inside my door when I removed the pillars to paint them. For about a month I could hear it rattling on the hard bass notes, but eventually it settled and I can't hear it anymore.

 

[storlied]

It settled and you can't hear it now? lol.. did it melt? I still want my socket back.. haha.. Well hm.. I suppose after driving around, it's gonna go to one side or the other... hopefully not ALL the way to one of the sides... there's a hole going outside... I'll figure something out maybe.. I think my work should be focued on the front... you think it's probably a good assumption that if I can get the fronts, the rest are gonna be cake? The one started doing today to see how bad they were came out pretty easily.. took a big of strength and a pipe on the end of the socket wrench but it was pretty simple for a huge bolt that's not been touched in 10+ years. We'll see how it goes..

 

[Paraphoe]

Yea, if you can get the fronts the rest are gonna be much easier. They're not as exposed to the elements as the front two, at all.

 

[manaen]

When I did mine I used a large pipe wrench and I clamped the handle of the pipe wrench to the body so I would not have to hold two things. Removing the two front bolts took longer then all the other bolts put together. I honestly don't understand why ford used that type of bolt configuration everything else is just bolted down. Why add a plate that threads onto the bolt between the body bushing

Good luck and be sure to coat everything a day prior to the install with PB Blaster (or your choice of creeper oil) It will make it so much easier.

 

[storlied]

Bodylift is 90% complete, a buddy of mine offered his tools and place.. went pretty well actually... did the body bolts by hand. The front two needed a pipe wrench, two people and a lil impact but yeah... everything went a Lot smoother than all the horror stories on here... the most BS filled part was the radiator drop. Steering feels a lil tighter now since the extension, and a sensor plug [I can only assume coolant temp sensor] isn't long enough to reach where it plugs in... I didn't have any A/C line issue with my 5.0L, not even close. Also, I thought the rear bumper brackets were supposed work on the 98+ kit? I tried every angle n no go... Guess I'll have to use the template.

Here's the only pictures I took... lol.. so far..

 

[storlied]

Can anyone give me any insight into these rear brackets? I thought if I flipped them and swapped they would work? I have the ones with an angle in the middle of them.. and they just don't make sense... will these strictly not work? Does anyone have pictures?

 

[storlied]

Another shot as it currently sits:

 

[Paraphoe]

Looks good man. Did I not tell you you were stressing too damn much over the whole thing? Haha...

 

[storlied]

Just like always..... -_-''

For the most part I'm going with the same look as your truck. What type of paint did you use on your bumper plastic? Any peeling or fading?

 

[manaen]

There is special bumper paint that is made to adhere to plastic. There are also paints made just for plastic in different colors. If you want to use a standard paint get a couple cans of adhesion promoter it is made to create a surface over the plastic that will bond normal paints. The key with painting plastic is surface prep and then using a paint that is designed to adhere to plastic. There is another option called self etching primer, it is also made to adhere to difficult surfaces (like chrome and plastic).

Good luck, and remember clean that surface really well before painting any plastic...