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Completed Project 5.0 swap - w/ 4406

Use this prefix for completed projects that are not "How to" articles or threads asking for help.
Ok thanks. So if I use the electric t case something with the 4low won't be right or what are you saying? I bought a chiltons for this a while ago so I was using that to trace wires..
 



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No no not at all what I was saying was you don't HAVE to go with the electric shift to have control over the front axle
 






No no not at all what I was saying was you don't HAVE to go with the electric shift to have control over the front axle

I understand that but I already bought the transfer case so I'm going to use it. I'm just trying to verify that the wiring will work the way it is. I took care of the difference in the ac and alternator wiring already
 






ahodges said:
I understand that but I already bought the transfer case so I'm going to use it. I'm just trying to verify that the wiring will work the way it is. I took care of the difference in the ac and alternator wiring already

Well I'm not sure how the electric t cases wiring will jive. Quite possibly you may have to hunt the gem for the vehicle that came with that style tcase. And if you have to you replace the gem it may or may not offer the same front axle control methods. Also I would look into the resistance values between said vehicle and the explorers selector knob

But try it what's the worse thing that can happen? Fry a gem that wasn't gonna work in the first place, it won't affect transmission or computer at all, kinda the nice thing about them being standalone controllers I guess
 






I've read that the wiring is the same as for the original t case that comes in v6 explorers. They use the same shift motor and speed sensors. I'm really confident about that. I'll post about the process as I get there.
 






Well I've made some considerable progress over the last couple weeks but I'm just getting around to posting some pictures of it. :hammer:

I cleaned up the inside of the frame rails with a grinder and then washed/ degreased it. Then I used POR-15 on the whole underside on the inside of the frame rails from the front axle back to the spare tire.

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I figured that i can go back and do the outside of the frame rails and anything else I feel needs it later, or if I get everything else done and am just waiting on the engine.

I also go the transmission back from a local shop called Maximum Overdrive who did a performance build for me. They put Redline Alto bands in it, the updated reverse drum, intermediate hardened shaft, and a superior shift kit. I also had the torque converter rebuilt with heavy duty performance parts at a slightly higher stall.

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I did the paint job with the dark Ford Blue color made by Rustoleum. I was originally going to use the stock oil pan but decided to get a billet aluminum one with my next order from summit.

I mounted dual, stock style tranny coolers, one on each side of the grill so the trans should have plenty of cooling. If I think of it I'll take a picture of that also.

Now I'm just waiting to get my transfercase back from being rebuilt to install the trans. The transfercase had some debris in the tail shaft I wanted check out, and it turned out to be the oil pump puking out.
 






Looks perdy!

Id like to see your cooler setup when you get the time to snap some pics
 






Here are the pictures of my custom tranny coolers installed.

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Since my truck didn't come with any extra coolers at all, like the V8 models all did, I had to cut out the plastic grill insert to make the one in the stock location fit. With that said it should come as to no surprise that I had to do the same thing for the extra one I added on the driver's side.

Don't mind the dust.. It hasn't been cleaned off since the project started and it's driving me crazy!
 






I like the setup, it's nice and clean. I realize I will probably have to do some minor fab work to get an extra cooler in there. I have a question on the positioning of the transcoolers, I read somewhere that having them 'upside down' leave the possibility for air to get trapped in the top of the cooler, seeing as it obviously rises above the fluid. Is there any validity to this claim? On the other hand since it is pressurized I would also see how the fluid would indeed make it through the entire cooler and force the air out. Have I answered my own question?
 






Lol.. I think you did! They are placed like that stock and have never actually heard of air getting trapped in there. All that i really did was add another cooler along side the stock one. I've only ever seen coolers with side ports or bottom ports, never top ones.
 






I am assuming people just rotate them to make them top ports. My friend's 09 Mazda has the transmission cooler in the same place as your passenger one so it must be fine to have them like that. If I find the article about the air getting trapped I will post it. I really want to do your set up because my aux cooler came zap strapped to my radiator, it's not very big and I have the infamous 4r70w shudder. What size and rating are your coolers?
 






Personally I have no idea what the rating is. I do believe though that every explorer that came from the factor with a tow package had the one on the passenger side and I just threw the second on there for good measure.

On another note. I started trying to replace my torsion bars this weekend with some new ones. Well it hasn't been going as planned. I got the key disconnected from the crossmember that the trans sits on but no matter what I've tried, I can't get the bar to come out of the lower control arm. I'm beginning to think this is a case where I need to take the whole lower control arm off and find a press to push them out. Anyone have a good idea here?
 






I got the trans and transfer case in yesterday!! I picked up my transfercase from getting re-built/ freshened up. When I pulled the tail shaft housing off to check things out, I found some debris I didn't like so I took it over to the guy who built my tranny. Turned out that the oil pump was eating itself up and about to go out. So the new parts I got in it were the oil pump, new clutches, and all new seals. I got it painted on Saturday and put everything together yesterday. Wow is that thing heavy. If I had to guess I would say that the tranny and transfercase together weighed around 300 - 350 pounds..

My camera was giving me problems but I'll take some tonight if I have time and post them up.
 






Here are some pictures of my transfercase attached to the trans. I did this a week or 2 ago but have been really busy with other things and never had the time to post the pics up.

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I now have it under the truck with the gas tank installed. Now all i'm waiting on is for my engine to get done!!! I've been waiting 2 months so far..
 






Beauty!
 






Here are some more pictures I took last night of the work I've completed over the last couple of weeks. This is how my truck is sitting right now. I've been told that my engine should be done at the end of next week finally. I'm not holding my breath...

Passenger side front suspension (all the new parts!)

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Transmission installed waiting for the engine...

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In this one you can see the old tank support bracket holes at along side the 4406 transfer case.

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Looking aft at the tailshaft and new sport style gas tank installed.

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It is lookin great! Thanks for the pics because I've been sittin on my 4406 for a while and have been lookin for a few other parts to finish the linkage. Did you have to clean the frame for the por 15? How expensive was it to do the whole undercarriage?
 






Thanks!! It's been a lot of long hours out in the barn to get to this point.

My frame was really rusty so I used an electric grinder with a sanding wheel on it for the big areas and then used a die grinder for some of the smaller areas. The biggest thing is to just get the flakes of rust off. After that I used some degreaser on the frame and floor and then rinsed it with a hose really good. Hopefully it'll hold up over time.

I only used 1 full quart of POR-15 on the frame so far, which is only 1 thick coat brushed on and a quart of POR is around $50. I touched up some of the areas with rustoleum spray paint in the hard to reach areas.

Also something to mention is that up to this point I mostly only did the inside of the frame since I've undercoated the outside of the frame rails not too long ago. If you plan to do the entire underside of your truck with POR, I would get 2 quarts to start with.
 






is that a sport tank you have?



It is lookin great! Thanks for the pics because I've been sittin on my 4406 for a while and have been lookin for a few other parts to finish the linkage. Did you have to clean the frame for the por 15? How expensive was it to do the whole undercarriage?

what linkage, for the t case? the stock one will work, and the case will slid into your sport. you will just have to modify the tank support like all the 4 door guys do with a stock tank.
 



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Looking good I'm about to gut all my hard work from my converted. 96 and swap it into a 98. Without having the motor in there it's gonna be hard to tell if you beat the floor enough for the transfer case. I had to modify the v6 transmission mount to work with the 4r to get mine in because I did not beat the floor enough

Lineage is easy get the parts from a auto 4x4 ford truck 4.6 liter they are a dime a dozen

Il be interested in hearing how your gem will control the new electric tcase
Tell me one thing though is your selector 2-4auto -4low or is it Auto-4 hi-4low
 






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