Replaced dome lights and now electrical problem?

[dopexile]

I was replacing some dome lights in my 2004 Explorer... unfortunately I think I may have caused a short. Now the power windows, radio, Heat\AC Blower, dome lights, and instrument panel all do not work.

I am guessing a fuse is blown somewhere but I haven't been able to pin point it yes. I visually inspected each one and didn't find a problem.

Unfortunately there is 20 degree sleet outside and I have a bad wrist injury that makes it difficult for me to be under the dash pulling fuses out... Would anyone have any guess what I should check for? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[FordFool2]

Fuse 17 probably blew. It feeds the lights and the accessory delay feeds radio, HVAC, etc.

This fuse is located inside the truck just above the driver's feet. It is listed as 15 amps.

 

[BigRondo]

Welcome aboard!!

If you have a multimeter, fuse tester, test light, etc. you can check the fuses without having to remove them.

I would check all the fuses in the Central Junction Box (under driver side dash) and Battery Junction Box (under the hood, behind battery) to be sure.

Good luck with the fix.

Please keep us posted as feedback helps others reading this post looking for a fix to the same or similar issue!

 

[BigRondo]

Fuse 17 probably blew. It feeds the lights and the accessory delay feeds radio, HVAC, etc.

This fuse is located inside the truck just above the driver's feet. It is listed as 15 amps.

Good call. I was checking my shop manuals. Guess you beat me to it.

 

[dopexile]

Fuse 17 seems to be okay, I checked it for continuity with a multimeter.

I spent a few hours swapping the battery saver relay and the accessory power delay. The relays have a terrible design... they put them above the fuse box making them impossible to access.

Unfortunately my problems persist. Now that I have a multimeter I am going to double check all the fuses when I get a chance.

 

[FordFool2]

I would look at fuse 16 in the power distribution box under the hood next.

 

[dopexile]

Checked every fuse with a multimeter today in both fuse boxes and all were good.

I am suspecting the instrument cluster needs to be replaced now... this diagram I found shows it being a intermediary to a lot of components that are not working.

Does it makes sense to take a gamble and replace it or should I just take it to the dealer?

 

[FordFool2]

The microprocessor in the instrument cluster is suspect. As well as Fuse 15 in the power distribution box. Before I would buy an new cluster/microprocessor, I would try and confirm that it is getting the voltage it needs. Specifically, I would verify 12 volts at connector C220a Black/Light Green wire. This connector shows coming into the bottom of the cluster up above the accelerator pedal. Try and get a reading on it.

 

[dopexile]

OK I think I figured this out.

I took the instrument cluster apart. I took a test light grounded to the body and when I touched it on the Purple\orange wire on C220a the interior dome lights lit up. I was not able to get anything on the black\light green with the test light however.

To me this means the cluster circuit board is blown and not properly sending a ground signal to turn those lights (and other components) on.

Does this logic sound correct?

 

[FordFool2]

I don't agree with your logic.

Grounding the Violet/orange basically allowed the Battery Saver Relay to energize and provided 12 Volts to dome lights, cargo lights, glove box. That tells us that Fuse 17 is good, the relay is good, and the wiring to those circuits is good.

If you are not getting power on Black/Light Green (Pin 1) in C220a then that is the direction we need to head. Don't call the cluster bad yet.

 

[dopexile]

FordFool2 and everyone Thanks so much... you have helped me a ton!!

I just looked through some diagrams and realized that the Master Light Switch determines if the cluster gets power (duh!). I had removed that switch when I took the panel off. I wired it back up, turned the headlights on, and I am now getting current on Pin 1 and Pin 7.

I think that conclusively proves it is a bad instrument cluster circuit board.

 

[FordFool2]

I agree the power feeds are Pins 1 and 7 on C220a. Have you tried disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes or so to possibly let the instrument cluster reset. Just an outside chance. I know that cluster is over $350 new.

 

[dopexile]

I agree the power feeds are Pins 1 and 7 on C220a. Have you tried disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes or so to possibly let the instrument cluster reset. Just an outside chance. I know that cluster is over $350 new.

Yeah I tried resetting the battery for an hour or so... I found a junkyard instrument cluster for $75 I am going to go pick up tomorrow... hopefully it works out.

 

[BigRondo]

I can post the troubleshooting steps from the shop manual tonight when I get home,

 

[BigRondo]

Here is the link to the Instrument Panel Diagnostics from the Shop Manual. It's for the '03 but should help you out:

https://app.box.com/s/4q4gg7ro0iieezmvaglj

Good luck.

 

[dopexile]

Got a new instrument cluster today... same problem still unfortunately. The battery saver relay does not switch on. When I ground pin 6 the battery saver relay turns om and all is well.

Any other ideas?

 

[FordFool2]

If you are able to follow the shop manual from BigRondo, those are very good troubleshooting aids. It tries to determine if the cluster is bad. Since the replacement cluster came from a wreck, we really don't know for sure its condition.

I am starting to suspect the microprocessor inside the Light Switch Assembly. This processor and the cluster processor have to work together in order to ground pin 6 on C220a.

Also, any chance you have the dimmer switch in the "defeat" position? Per the owner's manual:

PANEL DIMMER CONTROL
Move the control up and down to adjust the intensity of the panel lighting. Operates only when the exterior lights are switched on. Move the control to the full upright position (past detent) to turn on the interior lamps.

Move the control to the full down position (past detent) to prevent interior lamps from illuminating when the doors are opened.